Challenger

MP8s are the same as D13s. IShifts are a volvo trans. The Mdrive is an IShift with a Mack name to make Mack customers happy. MP7s are the same as D11s. How can you say you work on both but they're not the same? I work on red and green engines everyday. All the engines parts are the same, all the emissions parts are the same, all the ECUs are the same, the radiators and surge tanks are the same, the engine mounts are the same. Ive taken parts off of Volvo/green engines and put them on Mack/red engines. The only difference is how they package the parts. The Volvo parts say Volvo on the bag, the Mack parts say Mack on the bag but they're still the same part. I guess the air cleaner and valve covers are different. If you work on them everyday how can you say they're different? Im not trying to be rude, Im just confused on your comment.

Pa DOT officers are ruthless, I wouldnt risk it. All it takes if for one cop to say you need a CDL, you're getting a ticket, and the truck is getting towed. Then you'll have to go to court and waste time and maybe the judge will call it recreational and drop the charges but you still lost the tow fee and all the time and hassles of court. Pa DOT set up a checkpoint about a 1/4 mile down the road from our shop. A couple of Macks got red tagged and towed to our shop. You could see our shop and still got towed. I wouldnt risk it.

Every dealer is different but we've been seeing this for atleast a year now. We've been doing them inframe but the 2 we have now we pulled the engines. We are still trying to figure out the best way to complete the repairs. So far one guy says he likes it out of the truck the other one says he likes still in the truck. Trail and error on this one. One thing we do know is if it has an Allison its better to pull the engine. We have engine stands, so that helps alot with it pulled. You can do it inframe or out, just pick which one you feel better with and go with it. How bad was the failure? Is there alot of metal in the pan? The oil cooler needs replaced too. We dont have any problems getting parts. What problems are you having? Its been taking us about 60-80 hours for each engine. Volvo pays somewhere around 35 hours, warranty time. Warranty time doesnt mean anything. After you complete the repairs you will know more then your Mack dealer.

The name on a door indicates the owner, so having a Volvo with Mack on the door wouldnt be the better way to drive that point home.

The trans in the manual would be similar to the back 2 case of your 12 speed. It wouldnt have any information on the compound case/front case or how to correctly break down the 12 speed. Maybe it would be helpful. If you have a 12 speed, you need the 12 speed book. Your trans only comes apart one way and its listed in the 12 speed book. Ive seen guys try and tear down a 1070 like its a T2 or T3 and all they get is frustrated.

Volvo owns Mack and the GU is a Volvo with a bulldog on the hood, makes sense to me. Its just a reminder on who runs the show.

Replace the EUP.

Yes, TONS of Mack and Volvos have or will have this problem. The double idler gear retaining nut backs off and causes the problem. Its a huge job. We have 2 MP7s in our shop right now getting the repairs. We always have one truck in the shop with this problem. Normal needed repairs Replace all gear train, replace oil pump, check/replace rod and main bearings, remove oil cooler to clean metal debris, blow out all oil passages. Volvo came out with a Service Bulletin that calls for tech to drill through the flywheel housing and double idler gear/nut and then drive a pin through it and install a freeze plug in the hole. The pin keeps the nut from backing off. But of coarse they ran out of the parts for the last few months but recently started sending them out again. I steer clear of these jobs, just involves to much time. Good luck

The Nox sensor is in the outlet pipe of the DPF. It just screws in the pipe and has a small ecu mounted on the inside of the frame rail. The ecu is about the size of a credit card but thicker. Its an easy job, the hardest part is getting the sensor out of the pipe. After replacing the sensor reset the learned data. "Reset learned data" is on the same menu page as fault codes (the first page) under fault codes. Click on reset learned data and when the page comes up hit the start/play button. You wont see anything other then "are you sure you want to do this" icon, click yes and thats it.

Only thing I can say is, its seems like no one knows how to work on them. When you call Mack tech support there is only like 2 people who can point you in the right direction.

Normally when a trunnion needs replaced you will see cracks in the center section or if the bar is completely shot. If the saddle bushing is completely gone and the steel saddle has been riding on the steel bar for along period of time the bar can be damaged. All the trunnions that I've replaced had cracked center sections. If the bar looks ok its ok. Its like anything else, if the bar is bad you'll know its bad. I've never had or seen a rear suspension rebush or spring replacement come back and bite us is the ass. Tear it down and slide the new bushing or saddle with bushing on the bar and see how it fits. Keep it simple. If it needed a trunnion replacement everything would just get removed or cut off. The pintel hook wouldnt stop anything. There is also a trunnion that has spacers that can be installed without moving anything. You just put it up and add the spacers, its seems kinda cheap.

I like to do one side at a time. Sometimes it hard to beat the spring saddle off of the spring, so replacing the saddle with the spring is alot easier. You can use an air hammer with a chisel end to clean/break out all the dirt in the buckets. The buckets can fill up with crap so the bottom pad doesn't fit correctly. You can use a small car floor jack to lift the buckets into position, the buckets are heavy. You can use a port a power or a come along to push or pull the axles back into place when you install the buckets. Wire wheel the shit out of the trunnion bar and then grease the shit out of it so the spring pack slides back on smooth. Make sure everything is supported as you go along. Hopefully some of this helps. Thank you fore your response we had to cut all the bolts out 3/4 impact not doing job but we have it all apart. Ready to install one side. learned that you have to sapport the buckets on the spring before cutting the last bolt. lots of tennsion on spring. LOL. Will do other side different. We will be back if we have questions. Thank You.

It would be an ETECH engine and VMAC III software. Is the malfunction light and or engine shutdown light on when it shuts down? Does the malfunction light work? When you turn the key forward the malfunction light (orange lightening bolt) should turn on and off.

Those lines are terrible. Every I-Shift or MDrive that gets replaced gets 2 new lines and all 4 fittings. If you need to remove them without the tool you can, remove the white lock, slide the green lock back with a small screwdriver and use a small thin ziptie and wrap/tighten it around the small green tabs, then push in pull out/work the line out. The tool works awesome. Cutting them off and replacing them works well too. I hate those lines.

I know you already checked the H ring but triple check that H ring, make sure it didn't move at all. Also make sure you don't have any boogers/burrs in the lifter bore. Make sure the new lifter slides in and out just like all the other lifters. Good luck

I've never replaced or seen anyone replace one on the 2007s and newer. Do they have replaceable king pins? The older Volvo king pins were part of the axle, so the front axle was replaced. They were 2005ish. Have you replaced the kingpins? Seems like they would fall under warranty. I have no idea, sounds strange. It will be interesting to see what other people say.

You can use sticks with magnets on the tips to hold up the lifters while removing and installing the camshaft. There is also a cam shoe tool that you put on the back of the cam to slide it out and in alot easier with out damaging the cam bearings. If ts an Etech engine turn the cam gear timing mark to about the 2 o'clock position to have the lobes in position for removal and installation.

Bad injectors don't normally cause active EUP codes. Usually an active EUP code means a faulty EUP. Bad injectors cause a things like misses, smoke but not an active EUP code. There is a injector puller that threads into the top of the injector and you turn a nut that pulls the injector out. If you dont have the tool you could use a bolt that threads into the injector top and popped it out with a prybar. The bolt size is 1/4 coarse or 5/16 coarse the length should be about 3-4". I cant remember which one it is but its that easy. 1-Remove injector line 2-Remove valve cover 3-Remove injector retaining nut. You will need a 5/8 allen head socket for this nut. 4-Screw bolt into injector and "pop" it out. When you install the injector you will see a titty on the injector and a slot for that titty in the head. Screw the bolt you used to remove it back in and push the injector back in the bore while keeping the titty aligned with the slot. When you push it in you'll feel it seat in place, it will feel solid at the end of the push. Reinstall the retaining nut and torque to 45ftlbs. Reinstall all other parts. Its easy, you can do it.

Most of the time when the EUPs have active codes they need replaced. The EUPs are under the heat shields and supply fuel to the injectors. These codes can be active during warm up then go out, during normal driving or become active after the truck warms up. Either way they usually need replaced. 1 is at the front and 6 is in the rear. The engine brake solenoid is the powerleash solenoid that is clipped on to the rockershafts and applies more oil for the power leash to activate. #1 is the front head and #2 is the rear head. The code should say which # it is. If it doesnt you could apply power straight to the terminal on the left side of the head below the valve cover with the engine off. You should hear it click. Whichever one doesnt click could have a broken wire or just needs replaced.

I've seen Engine ECU's fail after wrecks, the wreck can cause internal damage. You could swap the EECU out with another truck's EECU.

Could be the oil pressure sensor. Unplug the sensor and turn the key if the gauge reads 0 with it unplugged the sensor is bad. The oil pressure sensor on an MP8 is the top sensor behind-rear of the engine ecu. You will see two sensors that look the same the top one is the oil pressure sensor and the bottom one is the crankcase pressure sensor. Those sensor do go bad.

Sounds like an Aset AI engine if there are ports in the Tstat housing. Just adding that there are 2 coolant temp sensors. One that sticks out of the back of the water manifold that points to the rear of the engine, this one is for VMAC III. The second one is in the side of the water manifold towards the back and points out towards the tire, this one is for the temp gauge.

Flashing and reprogramming the EECU and VECU is always a win-win for the truck. Even if it doesnt repair the problem it definitely wont hurt it. People who never take their trucks to dealer will most likely have some type of software update. Im a big fan of updating software levels. Out with old, in with the new.

The throttle dropping in and out could be a software issue. If you ever take it to a dealer tell them to flash and reprogram the EECU and VECU.

Vmac III 8-1 EUP #1 8-3 EUP #3 Do you notice a miss with the codes? Probably need to replace the EUPs that have the active code. Here is a quick reference for blink codes. http://www.auroramack.com/pdf/308/V-MAC%20Fault%20Assignments.pdf