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Barry posted this above there but its good reading! Why we are going the way of the doe doe bird as far as I can see! Reading thru that I see they will do away with the owner ops Won't be able to afford trucks as repair costs are off the end of the scale they are catering to fleets The guy states that newer trucks are more durable and more dependable in one of his last statments he odviously lives on mars or sumthing! http://www.truckinginfo.com/maintenance/news-detail.asp?news_id=69639&news_category_id=76

First thing that comes to mind is the fuel pump Plug pins!I would have them replaced before doing anything else major!

SweeeeeeeeeeeT Got to love that!

Gambi said he could use that screw theres a bit of money on the sly here for ya Chuck! Pop that baby in the mail to him!

Welcome to the site ! Would you please post your problem before you go bald! We maybe able to help with out a diagram

On a truck these are mounted at the rear upper of the fuel pump governer housing!As stated there will be a braided or steel 1/4 inch line coming from the inlet manifold!

Not sure

Ya I worked to day Bro, I come to check on ya most every day thou!Got to keep you and Jerry on the straight and narrow!

Glenn they should work however how well I'm not sure. the tips and cracking preasures maybe diffrent. Cant hurt to try I would think! 270- 300 M? Would be a stump puller engine I would think! Maxidyne !?

First do you have all the fuel lines for the ambac? You would have to swap ALL the rigging over from the ambac engine Pump drive ect and you need to make plugs to go into the holes where the rob pump was!I beleive the gears on the front are the same.there is and oil feed hole that May be pluged off on the robby engine that feeds the ambac pump drive!It Is a fair amount of work!I beleive the turbo drain is diffrent not sure on that I beleive the turbo on the robby will be schwitser and the ambac it will be a Garret! you'd have to check this stuff!Then the trotle linkage and the stop stuff you'll have to fiddle with! Lots of messing about for little gain.Try tweaking the timing 2 or three deg advance and see if it gains you your .3 or 4. I to like the ambac stuff better but they sort of droped it in the 90's cause robby was cheaper I beleive.The ambac pumps seem to run the engines cleaner for some reason specialy V8s.

Swap the 400 parts on to the donor engine! How did the 400 fail? You can safley take 460-500 from the block Wouldn't wan't to thou!

The rob bosch injectors look diffrent as well the alinment Kog is a ball bearing as apose to a roller bearing looking thing!Timing Its all over the place depending on year19 -24 degres if I rememeber correctly!What is the year of the engine? I might be able to find out for ya!

No screws in the engine! all have bolt heads! I have seen that screw used on the clutch cable lock tab! also on the clamps that hold the p/s hoses around the bottom of the engine but nothing to my recall inside the engine like that!

The way I read this is your ambac injectors are still in the heads Correct? Most times the injection pumps are calibrated with the injectors ,so the cracking preasures May be diffrent between the injectors!Having said that I guess you could advance the timing a bit your problem being the ab light or lack there of! you could try and wing it and set the timing by first putting the engine on the desired timing number on the fly wheel then center the timing tab in the pump where the ab plug goes in the hole by eye But your kind of guessing could be off 1 or 2 degrees!

Ya it can wait For a bit! Seen em get real bad thats probly your noise! At one point in time it was a saftey issue to replace fuel lines If I were doing it To my Truck now I would re use the lines!Providing they are the updated lines. If I am doing a repair to Your truck I will replace the fuel lines as it is a liability issue for Me!You can do this repair your self!For the cost of the gaskets and the stud kit ,It will take you the best part of a day to do if your doing it your self and never done it before!It will take me or anyone thats done a few 3 to 5 hours to do,If it has any broken studs abit to alot longer. Warrenty pays 4.7 or there abouts to do it!With out complication. So A case of beer and a nice sunny relaxing sunday do it your self save 500 or more bux labour or sit at home with your feet up drink that case of beer and don't lift your butt out of the chair and let somone else do it for ya and get six months to one year warrenty your two choices! Injection lines will likly get replaced if done at a dealer.Duno what the gaskets cost!NOT MY DEPARTMENT,You need six manifold gaskets update stud spacer kit, two hot side egr pipe orings one turbo drain gasket one turbo gasket, turbo studs and nuts and lots of patience.It gets easier after about the third time around! Your call Chuck!

When you put it back on Because you put it on the Timing marks before you started (Correct) You now only got to remove the plug pear into the hole once the pump is back on be sure the flat blade is dead center in the window and bolt the gear up put the cover on see how it runs!The Ab light thing is a bonus if you can get one if not and the engine dosent run to satisfaction take it to the dealer pay the .5 to and hour and have them time it!You still saved the re and re!

No engine is perfect! Get a sample to ease your mind! If your operating in humid condions this wouldn't help things!

Have the oil tested!We have had the odd front engine seal leak! Is the engine geting up to temp?

E7 same rules apply but the pointer is on the bottom of the flywheel housing 6 bolt cover #1 valves closed. engine on timing marks on flywheel dead center in the opening!.

What engine?E6 E7? 2Valve Or 4 valve head, what year? e6 4 or 2 valve the pointers ar at the front on the damper you need to pull the front valve cover to be sur #1 valves at closed and that your on the timing marks for the engine 4 valve has 2 pointers one valve set V one Timing you need to be on T E7 same rules apply but the pointer is on the bottom of the flywheel housing 6 bolt or 2 bolt cover!

My first guess would be liners leaking.You could try some repair in a can, like alumiseal ect. Do not use barsleak !

The stuff mentioned below is not really the cprect answer for the problem But! My first guess would be liners leaking aswell.You could try some repair in a can like alumiseal or dyke !These are not a proper fix but a get by.You could also phone these guys and tell em whats going on and try there product if they think it will work! http://www.rxauto.com/demo.htm Do not use barsleak

No aplause please just throw money!

If you have any trouble with the low low remember that there still may be a spring and a ball under the front cover you may have to remove for it to work right with the air shift the truck it came from likly had 2 sticks.

You Don't need myall's help your done! Good job! You'll be drivin it in an hour