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Joe A common wheel base up here is 204 inches !55 inch or 60 between bogies.

Doc i can't answer that question BUT Whatever bang he gives you I just about guaranty we can getcha lots more if you need it!

the timing maybe a little diffrent too ,when they changed to RB they added a second pointer on the engine one to set valves and one to install the pump!

it is likly the exhast for the range button

the valve set is the same,you simply set the jake as your seting the valves the setting is depenant on hp 85 thou comes to mind!

Depending on the ponys ! 2000 - 2300 You don't want to mess with too much rpms on that engine the valves will float and you can smash lifters very ,very easy! BE happy with brute low end !Torque gets the load moving Not HP! Increased rpm is mostly hp.not worth a bunch in my mind! The buttres bolts SHOULD't need to be checked they torque up to 90 lbs and SHOULD stay there.

Judging by the color of the engine it is a 325 maxidyne!The bimbo is not present but could be installed if you wanted to go that far!You would simply remove the plug on the right hand rack and install the bimbo slave and some shims and add in the reversing relay!

pro68 the xt file will let em make 40 psi on a cool day! 35 is bottom spec for a truck with the XT program!Those puppys haul ass!Any trucks we have had with that file in the program made 35 psi on a bad day.If you were lucky enought to have gotten one of these trucks keep it! NEVER EVER have the eecu reflashed Cause you WILL NOT get the same engine file! I beleive it has been removed from exsistance!

Your set up is the same as Trents on his six! There is a reversing relay suposed to be mounted near the left front inlet manifold and there Would have been a A bimbo slave on the rh rack end at the front of the fuel pump! if you don't see anything there its all likly been removed!Any Mack engine equiped with AMBC fuel pumps will have this stuff on it six or 8 cyl the reversing relay is the only diffrence on them you HAVE to have the V8 one for your aplication! Don't remember the no,s but the last digits in the part no must contain P10. Also there is a shim set for the bimbo slave it has a measurment!!! BUT having said that You just want to trim back the smoke NOT eliminate it SO simply space it out with 1 - 9/16 flat washer!

As posted set valves as stated on tc 1 0r six check for over lap on one or the other if you have over lap on 6 set 1 over lap on one set six!and move thru the firing order using the top most pointer on the front! 16 thou intake 24thou on exhast! good luck with it!

Nope! Slow and steady wins the reace maybe???They are still fumbling with some programing issues,Our customer needs some specil addons that we were capable of before and not now !I beleive we are close I hope so or we will loose them to PETE!

We have sold lots of it!What kind of work do you do?We have had some problems!Including the afor mentioned!Radan has been good about replacing the peices, Keep and eye on the lower saddle where the centre bushing is they crack there as well.Aperantly meritor has bought them. As for squirming no complaints in that department!Most of the radan is used for dump truck mixer apps here! we do have cranes and a few other apps thou!One thing you might try is loosening all the clamp bolts that hold on to bushings and take the truck for a short bumpy ride then snug everything back up seems to de stress everything!Also measure back from a comon point at the cab xmenber bolt comon to both sides of the truck and see if the distance from that bolt to the main bracket is the same both sides!

The only thing on a mack that is truly mack now is the cab and the bulldog on the hood! You need only compare a volvo to a mack side by side to see the minor diffrences.THE frame the drive train with exception of our diffs and trans. The mr being another exception (Maybe)?And for how long who knows!The Cab will likly become a thing of the past next! You watch the next big cab revamp volvo does the mack will follow in its foot steps If it still exsists at all! My prediction >Volvo cab a diffrent hood with a bulldog attached. THE NEW BREED The VM they will call it! The 3/4 breed I call it! Well at least it won't be A Heins 57 ! The bulldog on the hood. That will be the last thing to go! You need only look at what has been done in the past to see the future. VOLVOWhiteGMCAutocarVOLMACK. Wheel C!

I appretiate what you have said and like to hear that kind of dedication to product that I once had, But the engine is the engine And seems like a good engine ,BUT Theres more to this than just an engine. they volvotized the rest of the truck as well!Lift the cab off and there sits a Volvo frame!We had a good frame! We could have used the mack frame and volvo cross members Best of both worlds! Mack engine mounts nothing wrong with them either simple design they worked! Volvo seems to like to complicate simple concepts That does not impress me! They make mountains of mole hills . We need to build a truck that in the end we can be proud of and the customer can rely on for the most part! adding complication to it isn't doing that! Have you ever watched star trek on the tube! Volvo is the Borg and WE have been asimilated ,Risistance is futile.

SOME tricks! You can get by by using only the water pump without the oring on it!Install the front cover WITH A GOOD quality silicone NO gasket Please! put the water pump in and snug the bolts in the water pump area try pulling the pump out if it dosent come easy tap the cover lightly in several directions till it comes in and out easy then tighten making sure the bottom of the cover lines up perfectly with the bottom of the block!While your tightening the rest of the cover bolts KEEP tring the water pump it needs to come in and out easy.DO NOT USE the front cover gasket THROW the dam thing away!It will curse you for ever they always leak after several months/years of operation NOT worth the aggrivation! PS when deleting the cover gasket it requires you reset the cam thrust screw BACK IT OUT 2 full turns (BEFORE) you install the cover ,Once everything is tight turn it In till it touches back it out a half turn and lock the jam nut. These tricks will definatly help ya sum! Good luck with it!

Why are you asuming its an ecu problem? DO YOU have fuel preasure?

Yup do em both! As Brent said, For best results you should have the fire ring grooves recut!

The worst wev'e had to do to them so far is exhast gaskets and leaks at the oil coolers!We have a few runing here, they do pull nice! NOW if we can get some cooperation from the volvo side to get the MRs programed to work for concrete pump applications we might have a chance!We've been fighting them for 2 months to get the programing correct!The volvo guys are bickering with the mack guys and so on!ALL WE WANT is somthing that will work for our customers! So I hope there are some of these dudes reading this forum and see what is being writen here!Put down the diffrences and lets get on with selling and servicing trucks And lets build a decent truck that a guy can be proud to work on!The engines seem to be a good start ,but the truck is falling behind some! TOO much tec the simple MACK truck has been over looked and over complicated The wheel is being reinvented for no good reason!

Is the check engine light on? If so You need to read the codes! Dumb question! IS there fuel in the tanks? If there is try priming the fuel system with the primer pump on the rh front of the engine if you get it to fire but not run doing that replace the transfer pump! If the primer pump feels spongy there is a good posibility that the transfer pump is toast.

Check close at exhast gaskets as well!Also an the older engines ABAC pump the engine will knock on #no 1 cyl due to cam shaft bearing wear in the fuel pump!the fuel supply pump pushes sidways on the cam advancing the timing on the front two cyls ,To verifiy this crack 1 and 2 at the fuel pump if the knock goes away you likly have worn bearings in the fuel pump.

I think I would try some additives at this point and a good hard run. product called rislone comes to mind!How much idling has it done?

>Mack, as near as I can tell, never offered a factory approved exhaust brake. < This option was offered for several years late ninteys it was called (Stealth Brake)!It was A jake brake exhast brake combo!The valve springs had to be changed in order to install with the jake!Not sure if you would have to change them with an exhast brake alone!ON a CH it was fitted under the passenger side floor board just before the flex pipe!

Two things! first to set the steering to max both sides on the bottom of the box there is what looks like a hole stick a flat blade screw driver that will fit the hole and back the screw out one turn that should affect the turn wider For one side( RH I beleive) long as its not hitting the circle stops on the axle first! you can also do the same for the other direction on the top of the box the same hole same place on the top! same proseedure you may have to turn the stops in a tad to acheive what you want!Second ,on an RD800 the ujoints can seem good but be stiff! check em out! remove the shaft from the box and the steady bearing and check everything for being free EVEN the steady bearing these can be seased and give you false feeling in the steering wheel!Replace em if your unsure of them!

Loose valve seats are noticible as you pull the shut down!Have some one pull the stop and listen near the air cleaner!in anycase they make one hell of a mess when they drop if it is a seat fine which one and pull that head!

He claims that they checked fuel preasure 60 psi or better !Never disclosed loaded or not!You would think it would exibit symtoms run rough and and throw multipul injection pump codes at least thats been my observation when fuel pumps go bad NOT ALWAYS but mostly! Also low compesion would show blu stinky fuel smoke! did your engine have this symtom?Just adding to the knolege base with this question! I have also seen them heads come in with valves swaped!