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We now use anairobic sealant on the liners it seems impervious to coolant once set! http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/anaerobic_gasket_makers.htm

Ive seen them with out the T blocks but very seldom! usually a 38 suspention in a tractor would be void of these!A gravel truck most always had em 38 0r 44.I'd be looking for a cracked drive shaft of bad ujoint if it had a ringing noise thou the spring box plates would be more of just a rattle clanking sound going over bumps I would think!

The most comon fuel in oil thing is injector orings , they get hard over time they can leak back up and by the hold down screw as well as previously described .as for the liner leak ,I beleive the liners orings were done away with long before 92 ,

The spring boxes have steel side blocks that sit loose in the box thats likly the sound you hear.

Don't laugh! Silly question !!? is there oil in the engine?I once had a guy come to the shop With this jake complaint ,I when thru the tests with the gauges on the heads! Went to pull the pan to check the pump and much to my horror I got Less than 8 liters / quarts of oil from the sump Think I might have found the problem????? I decided not to pull the pan .Anyway we went thru this senario many times the best fix was the oil pump and tigher main and rod bearings!

I wouldnt fuss over a retorque but Glenns schedule is a good one if you going to 10000 miles is a good number.

To add to what Glen has said !If the throtle is not going full the rpms will come up short as well with the boost leak thing you will likly be seeing alot of black smoke while under load and a high pyro reading if you got one!check the cheap and easy before buying a turbo!

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rhasler >The labour on the quote looks a little out to lunch don't cha think . 24 hours seems tops in my my mind for the whole job jakes included! Don't forget your probably dealing with a service writer who is looking at two seperate operations from a book or puter screen when they are actually combined jobs. What is their shop rate !

We cant tell what others know about things, so there are good , soso and bad tecks, Guys that learn from books and (Thats all ) Theres seat of the pants guys Like me that don't hang on every word spoken in the manual till I see it for myself and guys that can kind walk down the middle of those two lines and dabble from both pots.I don't know if the guys you go too have the where with all to boost / exhast check. We saw a need and we invented a way!Some People hang on everything thing the puter tells em, I Don't I try and apply everything I have learned over the past on a problem!Unfortunatly These skills have been hampered by todays tecknowizardry you now need the puter as they have taken away all the sences we used to use, we now relay on computers and guess work.guy on the other end of the phone saying well maybe try this! Anyway if you can ask em to open up all the parramiters in the/ rpm, road ,speed ,road, speed limit, Engine Droop remove any derates that that could cause un explained issues in power and see how it goes! 68 pro or rhasler seem to have a good handle on the puter end of things they may be able to shead a little more light on this ,as to tell em where to go and what to change in the program.

broken studs exhast gaskets plegued these engines all tended to make em squeal! but the boost didnt dart around as you discribe! as was stated preasure check will tell the tale but ya got to have the equipment to do so!Weve made a tool to test the whole system for leaks A cap to plug the exhast and intake of the tubo, you can put 40 psi on it and everything that leaks WILL show up!

Sorry man theres just too many things to look at to just say its this!It sounds like a sticking egr valve or turbo actuator from here but! As I said its somwhat hard to call with out seeing the unit! Maybe somone else could stick their neck out here but I,m not going to encourage you to spend any more money chasing rainbows! Somthing that does come to mind thou is if you are not the origanal owner of this truck remove the boost bypass hose and valve and check to see that noone has put a plug in that line that is floating back and forthI seen that happen and it will pound the needle off the end of the gauge.

Check the push tubes!I beleive if they have springs on em you got ceramic lifters!68 pro will have the particulars on a cam swap for 355/380 I believe there is alot to change for that jump !the cam key is just the tip of the berg!

Bro I really think ya need to check for boost leaks!Any hot 500 I have worked on put out 30- 34 psi boost If your putting out 600 plus you can't do it with 27 psi, ya better have a look for boost leaks!pyros likly heating and the inter cooler can't keep up!Beleive me your barely 450 at 27 psi.

Do you got p leash or jake!??? I aint never seen no jake on any thing newer than maybe 05 ,when the power leash came out we droped the jake and used the power leash around here! The p leash is good!Ya need to keep the rums up to have good hold back!

Try unpluging and repluging the fuel pump plug together half a dozen times if this makes the problem go away the problem is with the pins in that plug, have the pins replaced at the dealer!The pump will likly have to come off to be repaired other wise.

I agree with Glenn I have found that very few guys will phone and cancel an appointment !Somtimes I wish I could charge for missed appointments like the docs office, Its hard to plan around things when guys don't show!

News for ya!The GU won't Be here In 29 years!It will be in the scrap beside all the other throw away Trucks that are being built today! But having said that ,Yup remeber what ya hope for!Cause a Any RD CH or older truck Even a RS tandem tandem steer is easy compared to a GU count your self lucky.

If you have the engine turned up as high as you say you should be making way more boost check for boost leaks! The boost should be more in the 32 to 34 range with a juiced engine. also keep your air cleaner clean the engine will suck the elbow on the intake flat when pulling hard Once you got it running right! as for the fan test cut card bord to fit the rad cut a 4 inch hole in front of the fan hub and warm up to temp. Are the stats new? The over fuel combined with boost leaks can cause overheating!!! check that first as the engine is not putting out what it should!

The relay you hear clunking when the key is turned on is likely at fault replace that.

Try loosening the bolt on top turn the screw on the( end one) turn tighten the bolt and try it! ( Note )I beleive ya turn that one counter clock wise to increase!You can always put it back where it was if you don't get the results your after!

Glen Having said what you have said About the jake is all true! The dyna tard being a diftrent animal I have set the exhast a little tighter on them and had some good results acheiving better engine braking even three thou tight on the exhast provides better engine braking But you need to be mindfull of the rpms you DO not want to go into over speed AT ALL with the tight setting.

The jake does not work any better than a dynard on these engines .Comparing it to a more modern engine is not a fair comparison.As for the set what you experianced is normal for setting valves on a dynatard cam (loose valve lash 1 back).Your set is fine! I would not atempt tweaking the jake set any more than 1 or 2 thou tighter you could end up with bent valves.80 to 85 depending on turbo #nos is spec i beleive.

Every pump truck on the planet gets speced with a 9 speed and the wrong engine don't know why that is!We had a pump in the other day with a power complaint It came down to the fact it had a 9sp no selection to keep the thing in the power band! some one really needs to get there shit together when specing these! Another bitch I have with them is specing pumps with 24 type brake pots all the way around,The heaviest peice of equipment on the claim and we spec it with 24 brake chambers Not very bright.Ive seen this alot As far as I am concerned it should be illegal to have small chambers on anything speced for a pump rig heavy by design.