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Kool! You set the valves with the pointer located on the right front of the engine aimed at the damper the damper, The set is done in firing order 1548 6372 You need to set a 8 and 7 turn the engine to 8/2 on the damper if the valves are tight and are in motion as you turn the engine you need to turn the engine 360 same for seven .once you have set 8, seven comes up on the next turn!by pass 6 and 3

Bro your wasting time doing a valve set Yes Do the injector orings then pull the pan and look at the cam these Engines are time tested unlike the volvo mp engine they do certain things make certain noises this is a classic lifter chirp by what you discribe!50 pounds injectors 20 pounds or so on the lids 45 to 55 0n the jakes But don't bother putting any of it on till you check the cam! I only takes a half hour to pull the pan down worth the time as far as Im concerned!

Bro you need to address the churp sound before going after the valve set pull the pan and check the cam!That churp is likly a lifter or cam failing they don't always fail on an injection lobe!Injector orings can leak yes that is likly your leak!

By DOT limits here your allowed 3/16 at the bottom of the wheel tipping it with a bar! I would be more inclined to say 1/8 to be the maximum! Bare in mind to much wear can create unwanted tire wear!

Pretty much any range type trans you want to PRE SELECT the range the split is another story the split needs a low to no torque situation to work ,

The engine must have got hot(not on us)and cracked the valve seat. (NOPE its was a fairly comon thing ) Just happens! and usually the same way every time shut the engine off everything is fine ,Start the engine up Bang Bang Bang! anyway .As Glenn pointed out ,you do have 3 more heads to possibly do, But if you need a good runner we have a few! We just tore down a v8 got lots of parts Might even scare up a piston ,Phone Gary At Nanaimo Mack ( Vancouver Island) 1 250 758 0185 phone tommoro Gary is not here Fridays! He'll hook ya up ! Tell em Fred sent ya!

Woo hoo got the wheels turnin now !What diffrence can actualy go some where with out getting stuck now!

Usually this dosent bend the rod !But a good check, Also Post a picture of the liner when ya get time!Don't pull it yet! If its just a farm truck to haul from the feild to the barn you might want to just fuss up the liner with a hone and slam a used piston and head on.

That engine ran awhile like that !!!! Be sure to look at the turbo and back blow the exhast tube.The turbo wheel likly has hunks out of it as well.B sure to take the engine serial #no with you when buying orings for the liners three up dates happened a white dot oring was the most common The parts guys Should be able to direct you on that BUT Some arent to bright, If you buy a liner kit It usually comes with the TSB!If your going used post the ser #no here and we will be able to dig up the info.Serial no is stamped RH front of the block near the pan.If it has ac its under the ac bracket!

Found it ! Just below the for and aft sols lh on the trans FYI!

Just a Note !Check the clutch brake squeaze first if its not right correct it with the out side adjustment!Then proceed with the half inch bearing clearance/1 1/2 free play!This way you do the job once !

You leave the intake in place. Remove the air plumbing from the turbo inlet get it out of your way,Remove the cross over pipe that joins the to inlet manifolds together, remove the 6 intake bolts and the exhast manifold bolts and remove the rear section of the exhast from the head you are working on only . remove or pull back the two water rail bolts from the back head(under the intake) remove the valve cover and rocker gear ,woop the head bolts out and the head will pop off!Less than 2 hours you'll have it off.Once there you'll likly find bits and peices inbeded in the pistion thats valve seat, these peices can travel into the turbo so inspect the exhast wheel and stuff closely and if the wheel looks OK back blow the exhast tube on that side!You got the pan off so remove the piston if the liner is not damaged buy or get a used pistion inspect the wrist bushing fo pits or cracking if ok reuse find a good runner head and your back in business!

You likly have a droped valve seat!This usually happens when the engine is shut down ,next time the engine is started it begins to knock! more of a hammering sound! Pull the head off and look!you will likly need to replace the piston, liner Maybe , and head . and turbo if ths is what you find!

Hey guys I'm looking to fine out where the above mentioned solnoid is on the tractor. I just went thru a feasco with not having reverse ,found that a bunch of wires had worn thru on the suction line to the trans ,got thous all repaired but ,still got no 4x4 so I want to check the solnoid and see if it is getting juice . By the way the no reverse thing turned out to be the back up alarm shorted and not any of the broken and rubbed thru wires.So if anyone has any ideas lemeno! Thanx Fred

Have you changed any headlights lately??? be sure you have the right headlight bulb installed, there are 2 diffrent numbers 9007 I beleive is the correct one for your truck! But check with the dealer for the proper number!If you put the wrong light in one side it will cause this.

Hello Todd !I have not messed with turbos to experiment with more boost no answer for that one more boost will gain you nothing with out the fuel to go with it . The Timing could be altered to 22 degrees even as high as 24 degrees BUT I don't know what effect on performance or Life of engine to expect The timing changed as years moved on as emmisions changed. Hint ,On electronicly controled E7 the timing can vary between 12 and 24 degrees So I am making these statments as a guess that the fixed 18, degree timing on yours is a compramize number on a mechanical engine, as for the pyro temp usually taken at the turbo outlet on theses engines 1175 to 1200 max and wouldn't be pushing it past 800 - 1000 on pulls for extended periods! Just my to pennys worth.

Yup center punch it out and cut a slot in it for a screw driver.

A VGT can produce more air than an engine can use efficently.too much air no fuel to go with it! Not that much power in Air!

Yup the bull dog will take awhile to kill, but they'll do it ! My bet ! Within 5 years we should have a V cab.

If it maintains 23 with a full load on the engine and does not drop below 20 id say your good to go But by what your discribing the drop at 2100 does not sound good !I thinK you may have a restriction some where.to test this run a good known fuel line into a bucket of fuel directly to the red filter do your test again see if the same thing happends if the gauge still drops off put the hose directly into your clean pail of fuel from the transfer pump and try again.

So far so good we got 2 lowbed tractors working in my area, they out most everything out there.

(dealers has lots of them still in stock, why?) Wishfull thinking All dealers got lots in stock from what I see. As good as anything else out there In my opinion!There aint nothin out there that I would call dependable or wouldnt be problematic with all the electric rubish on these now!We got electric power windows ,brakes, and now mufflers these days somthings bound to go wrong at some point. Just my two bits worth.

I'm not an advocate of throwing parts at things I would tee in a preasure gauge at where the fuel enters the block and drive it with a load under the condions this happens and try it, if the fuel pressure drops down below sixty then Check the drain back valve on the block make sure its OK then work thru all the lines and check or replace em .If the fuel preasure does not drop then I duno where to send ya, The test VECU would be a though.(Usually the VECU doesn't cause performance problems when it fails) But if this ecu sees a torque limit signal it will cut the engine power some what with no code,if the wire to the ecu from the torque limit is worn or rubbed thru it can possibly cause a power complaint ,But your boost would be effected.And this would be noticalbe all the time.

I twice found a rock stuck in the inlet elbow of the red fuel filter might be worth looking at Causeing a low power thing Again fluctuating fuel preasure UNDER load!What is baffling is the boost the boost is right where it should be!