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check your throtle linkage as well make sure its going full stroke and the stop is going full on.The reversing relay with the prefix ending in P10 works best for most engines.,simply remove the bimbo from the pump and try it with out it hooked up to confirm your problem!

pics please lid off! Make sure were on the same page! there should be a 9/16 sized nut under the cover loosen it and turn the allen screw counter clock wise one turn put the lid on and try it! Its been years since I messed with these so bare with me!If that makes the problem worst go the other way on the allen screw 2 turns!

I just can't be bothered removing the stuff ! simply plug the egr with a plate beneath the egr valve and run with it! It seem s to be just fine other than throwing the egr code it does not hinder performance according to the customers that I have helped with this! the big bonus is no more cooler failures no heating and cooling to crack them.

With what your getting right now you should have some black smoke while pulling!

Check to see if it has a coolant screen on the lower rad hose it may be pluged!

Check the compresor inlet hose runs from the under side of the engine inlet manifold to the compressor intake !Betch its got a hole in it! You have a leak some where for sure look for torn or or blown hoses on the after cooler also!Boost leaks!

Can't stress this enough!!!! Clean all turbocharger failure debris from the air cleaner and inlet air ducts. Clean all debris from the exhaust manifold. take the whole intake piping set up apart right back to the air cleaner to check for peices and replace the air cleaner while your there!I have seen peices imbeded in the air cleaner from turbo failures. they can recycle them selves thru the new turbo and your back to square one ya realy need to dump out the after cooler as well, (althou it is a good filter) little bits can somtimes get thru and if they dont burn up in the engine they could possibly go thru!

The fuel preasure should not drop below 20 psi the engine requires at least that to run properly! 25- 30 is best!There is a tee at the front of the fuel pump on the return line check that the spring is not broken inside that!It sounds like a definate fuel starve problem your chasing! The other manifold thing you speek of sounds like a fuel heater is there coolant lines running to it!?

Check behind the rh fuel tank inside the frame rail!

We now use anairobic sealant on the liners it seems impervious to coolant once set! http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/anaerobic_gasket_makers.htm

Ive seen them with out the T blocks but very seldom! usually a 38 suspention in a tractor would be void of these!A gravel truck most always had em 38 0r 44.I'd be looking for a cracked drive shaft of bad ujoint if it had a ringing noise thou the spring box plates would be more of just a rattle clanking sound going over bumps I would think!

The most comon fuel in oil thing is injector orings , they get hard over time they can leak back up and by the hold down screw as well as previously described .as for the liner leak ,I beleive the liners orings were done away with long before 92 ,

The spring boxes have steel side blocks that sit loose in the box thats likly the sound you hear.

Don't laugh! Silly question !!? is there oil in the engine?I once had a guy come to the shop With this jake complaint ,I when thru the tests with the gauges on the heads! Went to pull the pan to check the pump and much to my horror I got Less than 8 liters / quarts of oil from the sump Think I might have found the problem????? I decided not to pull the pan .Anyway we went thru this senario many times the best fix was the oil pump and tigher main and rod bearings!

I wouldnt fuss over a retorque but Glenns schedule is a good one if you going to 10000 miles is a good number.

To add to what Glen has said !If the throtle is not going full the rpms will come up short as well with the boost leak thing you will likly be seeing alot of black smoke while under load and a high pyro reading if you got one!check the cheap and easy before buying a turbo!

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rhasler >The labour on the quote looks a little out to lunch don't cha think . 24 hours seems tops in my my mind for the whole job jakes included! Don't forget your probably dealing with a service writer who is looking at two seperate operations from a book or puter screen when they are actually combined jobs. What is their shop rate !

We cant tell what others know about things, so there are good , soso and bad tecks, Guys that learn from books and (Thats all ) Theres seat of the pants guys Like me that don't hang on every word spoken in the manual till I see it for myself and guys that can kind walk down the middle of those two lines and dabble from both pots.I don't know if the guys you go too have the where with all to boost / exhast check. We saw a need and we invented a way!Some People hang on everything thing the puter tells em, I Don't I try and apply everything I have learned over the past on a problem!Unfortunatly These skills have been hampered by todays tecknowizardry you now need the puter as they have taken away all the sences we used to use, we now relay on computers and guess work.guy on the other end of the phone saying well maybe try this! Anyway if you can ask em to open up all the parramiters in the/ rpm, road ,speed ,road, speed limit, Engine Droop remove any derates that that could cause un explained issues in power and see how it goes! 68 pro or rhasler seem to have a good handle on the puter end of things they may be able to shead a little more light on this ,as to tell em where to go and what to change in the program.

broken studs exhast gaskets plegued these engines all tended to make em squeal! but the boost didnt dart around as you discribe! as was stated preasure check will tell the tale but ya got to have the equipment to do so!Weve made a tool to test the whole system for leaks A cap to plug the exhast and intake of the tubo, you can put 40 psi on it and everything that leaks WILL show up!

Sorry man theres just too many things to look at to just say its this!It sounds like a sticking egr valve or turbo actuator from here but! As I said its somwhat hard to call with out seeing the unit! Maybe somone else could stick their neck out here but I,m not going to encourage you to spend any more money chasing rainbows! Somthing that does come to mind thou is if you are not the origanal owner of this truck remove the boost bypass hose and valve and check to see that noone has put a plug in that line that is floating back and forthI seen that happen and it will pound the needle off the end of the gauge.

Check the push tubes!I beleive if they have springs on em you got ceramic lifters!68 pro will have the particulars on a cam swap for 355/380 I believe there is alot to change for that jump !the cam key is just the tip of the berg!

Bro I really think ya need to check for boost leaks!Any hot 500 I have worked on put out 30- 34 psi boost If your putting out 600 plus you can't do it with 27 psi, ya better have a look for boost leaks!pyros likly heating and the inter cooler can't keep up!Beleive me your barely 450 at 27 psi.