theakerstwo

Also make sure this is not a 15 speed with the wrong shift know. A 15 speed will not let the range go into hi when the splitter is in deep reducion. And also look if you have not and see that it is not a RT 12513.This would be a u/d 13 and it will split different than a o/d.I am talking about looking at the tag at the bottom of the case.

I always took the old one out with a large snapon draglink scocket and if that will not move the a punch and hammer.Clean threads in block good and there is a o/ring on that plug.

And speaking of Holset i have a E7 engine here that has a Holset compressor on it. First for me.I guess you have seen alot of them.

What is macks way of checking one. Cummins and DD i know about but never did know how to check a mack. Only way i know would be mic it.

.71

I had same thing happen to me one time. Truck came in and it was a used truck but driver said he had it two months and ever time he had some time he put it in shop for a noise but no other problem being it was duel stack it was not hurting any thing. I and he drove it and when you would mash on the motor a sound that sound like a something was rolling across the floor of the bunk then it would lithy pop and no more noise untill you let up and it would do it again. I got a ladder and went up on top and found baffle loose. I was his hero for some time after that.

A 220 can be a sweet running engine by turboing it and slowing the timing down some but remenber that the cranks are weak for as more HP and they are hard to find. The liner protruction needs to be at its max height and still you will have head gasket problems. the low compression pistons that is needed in a 743 block for hi HP is hard to find if even made.Injectors and pump is no problem and cam does not need changed but retimed and it is same cam as a NTC250.

sae#1

You can pull it but cant get it back in with out the counter shaft support plates to hold the shaft in place.

We need the size of your tires.

That would help to get a closer ratio top gear but only if you pull your injection pump and have recalibrated. I just went thru this. The E6 350 is some what a maxidyn. Meaning it is a hi torque rise governor which it in a stock setting pulls better at 1400 rpm or has more torque at 1400 than at a 1800 or 1900 rpm range.So if you take your pump in and tell the man to cut the torque rise down so you move the torque range up higher to 2100 than at 1400. This way higher the rpm the more torqe you have and on a 13 speed trans you dont work it at 14400 but close to 2000 or 2100. Hope this makes sence and if some one knows better feel free to make a statement cause i have not stop learning. I did my pump that way and it pulls better at top rpm than when set stock. I cant say that you would get from point a to point b any faster but with the 9 speed with the .71 o/d top gear you should be running at a 1500 to 1600 rpm range more in a day than at 2100 rpm so that way you need a hi/torque rice governor or other wise you would not have enough power at mid range.But that works good for a cross countery operation but for a in town like a dump truck you need a low torque rice pump set close to 2100 and a close ratio trans like a 13 speed.This way your rpm is and can be run closer at 2100 more of the time.

The old 711 had a corner head bolt as in 3/4 and two per head.

I have had good luck taking a old drum to a store who sells brake parts and allowing them measure the drum the way they like.

Amen

This is correct. T%he first piston coolers was on the maxidyne or ENDT 673 B and C. Not the eary ENDT 673.The eary engine had 9/16 head bolt studs and only 18. The good ENDT 673 with piston coolers had 5/8 head bolt studs and was 20 of them per head.The 673 turbo and manifold with 18 head bolt engine will bolt up to the 711. In most cases you had to dump the turbo drain into a adapter that was between the air compressor and the pan.Some of the latter engines and it may be the 5/8 stud engine used a side plate on the right rear over the lifters that had a fitting in it to dump the oil from the turbo.If i was going to turbo a 711 i would take the fuel pump off and remove the sanrovace on the pump drive and get a straight drive coupler drive from a turbo engine and then retard the timing 2 degrees. Remove the govenero cover and remove the smoke screw from the fuel stop cam. Then set rack forward only two threads at the most. That was if i remenber .070 of rack. That all that engine needs with the hi compression pistons.It will need more air cleaner if its like most. But i dont know what air cleaner it has.

I think about 68 you could get either way.

I love it when some old man that is tight as bark on a tree ask you to spread a load of 1 1/2 crusher run about 1/2 thin from here to the end of the road down there and to keep the lumps out of it and stay off of his grass cause there may be a 10 dollar tip in it for you and if you get on my grass i may call your boss.I said i am my boss and i have wet gravel on and i dont spread this and you have to sign for it before i dump. This old man got so mad i whished i had dumped and run.He took my dot # down said he would turn me in to the governor which was a freind of his. Then i took the load back to the plant for nothen.It was worth it to hear him talk about the other drivers that he made get out and level there load with a shovel.I told him that i only hauled a shovel around to shovel horse shit out of my way. i told the scale lady when i got back and she said he has made his call and it didnt help him none.

I saw were a blade on a R model went thru the hood and then thru part of the fender and into a fench post that was 39 ft away. This truck was wound up coming up a slick road but that is what can happen to a man standing close and not thinking about dieing. That is the reason i have always said if a fan has a bent blade or cracked then get it off for the sake of some one else down the road. I have seen them come in with blades that looked like they had been a wreck.

Your right to.

I know your right.

Make sure the air cleaner is not stopped up. I have seen that happen a few times and at idle there is enough vaccuimn there and it can suck oil from front seal.

I have trouble understanding some of the yound born and raised usa girls. Some sound like Donald Duck talking to me and make no more sence when you do understand.

Sounds like the a/c switch is making the fan come on and it is a timed out put meaning it will go off after so many seconds or mins.

A early 673 used a felt dust wiper that looked as a seal but had a oil deflector on the inside of the cover. I think the later crank seal if that is what your talking about but i think it was a direct replacement for the felt.If you can find a seal at the dealer i would pull seal and take to a store who seels seals.I dont think you will have a problem. We have a few stores here who seel brgs and seals and you may have to give them the meaurements.

http://www.jakebrake.com/support/parts-and-service-literature.php?engine_mfr=7&engine_model=43&jacobs_product=72