Freightrain

Unlike most other brands, Mack usually flairs their frames in the front to get the motor lower, giving a lower hood height.

Just another day at the shop Rob? LOL!! Glad to hear you got it running again....though with a loss of nerves with it. Got to love those primer pumps. I ran mine out in the street ONCE, lucky it's a neighborhood and not much traffic at midnight. Open the hood, pump a while, cranked it up. WHew! Note to self, don't let tank get below 1/4 and sit on downhill run. She will run dry!! How's the speedo stuff going?

Wow....how do they keep the tar off all that chrome? I only run my B up the highway and can't keep it that clean!!

Not sure the type of cans you have, but likely you might find that a regular 30/30 maxi will bolt up? Wish I had a good picture of what my truck had on it originally. I was able to fit maxi's without modifications.

Sounds like you have a very solid plan going there. Can't really add too much too it.

Depends on where the air leak is? On the Dash or out at motor? The dash control is a really simple little gadget too. A paper gasket and an o-ring. If the o-ring on the knob is dried, it will allow air to blow past. Pull it apart carefully and replace o-ring. It's been about 5 yrs, so can't recall the detail on it but just pay attention and you'll be fine. Mine leaked pretty bad at first and I put new o-ring in it and it's fine. Just be careful with paper gaskets.

I can't think why it would work any different? What's wrong with yours? I've heard all kinds of horror stories about air wipers and how they don't work well, or stuck in one direction. Seems they are a pretty simple device and I can see if they get sludged up, the valve won't work thus rendering them useless. Should be THREE air lines going to it. Mark them if you can't keep them organized(mine stayed put and easy to figure where they went).

No expert on 13 spds, but I'd say that's a pretty good guess. What do the air lines hook to? The PTO is usually down on the bottom side of the main box.

Ok, put my name on the list.

Seeing you have hand brake, I'd start there. Take a quick spin around the block and then check temp of parking brake drum. Real hot? Then it's hangin up. Like Trent mentioned, try rolling each tire, as that would determine if it's a wheel brake. I had a rear brake/s-cam hanging up on mine when I first got it. I had to bump the clutch to get truck to release and roll. It would be fine there after, but first trip of day it would hang up. With the constant greasing now that problem has faded away. There is a grease point on all brake shoe hinge points. If that bushing gets dry, the brake shoe will stick at where ever it's put. Another issue with mine was front brakes were unhooked(no air) and the shoes were froze tight. It took heat to get shoes off pins. After some honing and grease they work flawless now.

I think my compressor is a bit on the weak side for CFM. 6hp/60 gal, but single stage, so it's not exactly real powerful. I'm kick'n this electronic conversion around, but I'll keep options open. I need to get that old speedo pulled apart first, then work on getting electronic version. Then the machine work will be the simple part LOL! Does your old box have the same part numbers on speedo gears?

Well, I have the time to poke around, so I'll drain the grease and check it out. Thanks

Yes, there are THREE different double bearings in these(main, counter, and rear box-output shaft). I'm working on output shaft,and the countershaft would be easy with just a cap to remove. The main shaft is the problem as I can feel it when I shift into Reverse. Sometimes I get a "ratcheting" sound when backing up, meaning gears are touching and likely it's mainshaft Reverse and the countershaft 2nd gear touching. I usually just give the handle a slight tug and it goes away. I might drain the box and pull the PTO cover and see what the countershaft is moving. I know this box has always been really noisy after a long highway trip. If left in double neutral it really bangs around, so I usually leave the main in a gear to give it some tightness and keep it from "slap'n" around. It does remain quiet while under power, so it's not a major issue. Rob, I'll get the old one out and start taking it apart. I know it would end up being a tedious job getting the bezel off. Got lots of time, so guess I'll get started. Is there a certain number of tabs the ring should have? for a certain diameter of ring(if that matters)? I suppose the ring will be 3-4" in diameter. I can index the cutting pretty precise using the super spacer(horizontal rotary indexing head). I could also just X and Y the notches like a bolt pattern too. I could use a ball end mill which would give the tabs a nice radius between them.

That sounds very do-able Rob. I could go off the passenger side since the drivers side has the hole for original gear assy. Machining is no problem, I could make the gear(reluctor ring), just need to know how many teeth to put on it. I have access at work to super spacer to rotate part accurately to space teeth. Now, getting a speedo and making it fit my old case? That would take some work. Not sure how to uncrimp face to get them apart. I do have an extra old one that stopped working so I have a sample to work with. How new of speedo do I need to find to get guts for electric version?

Here's the crazy part Rob. The speedo gear is only held by compression from rear nut, no splines or the such. I suppose I could make a ring and as long as it's as thick as the original part, it could easily replace it. Then I would need to figure a way to get sending unit near it. Since the housing is off, I suppose I could machine/weld if needed. The speedo was always like 8 mph off anyway, so I was hoping to get it closer. I was thinking to mount a ring on flange or such and do the same thing. This would be better though, and since I have it apart would be an easy modification. I'd like to keep the stock speedo(for the original look), but would love to change over to electronic control so I could calibrate it. Never really looked into it, so not sure what is out there. Likely nothing cheap or easy that would work with my stock speedo.

After playing with Stans E9/500 hp V8, I can understand the smoke issue. The little video I posted shows the thick black smoke with just a quick swat of the throttle. I could imagine under a good pull!! LOL!

IT'S OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YAHOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ok, sorry. Just been a long two weeks of messing with it. After giving up yesterday, I sprayed it with penetrating oil. I went out this morning and it near fell off with my fingers. Yes! So, after I get the little tailhousing off I'll be replacing the seal. I do need both speedo gears though, as the drive gear is chipped pretty bad and is probably why it tore up the driven gear. Drive gear: SW447250 5 tooth Driven gear: 154-P1 13 tooth I think part of the problem with the leak is the fact the rear bearings are loose. I can't get enough umph to see slop in shaft, but I left the tailhousing off and installed the flange again. I could move the rollers a bit on the rear bearing. This is telling me that I need to remove some shim. There is one large shim and one .004 shim. Not sure if .004 will be enough, and if I need more I can surface grind the thick one, leaving the .004 to add back in if need be. I don't have any books to show what is what and since tranny is full of thick grease I can't check rotational torque. I think this might have something to do with why speedo stripped out. If the shaft was walking, then the gear would be out of location, causing mis alignment and possible problems(chips in teeth). I know the tranny has some slop in main box, as there is an identical double bearing arrangement on the back of it. Don't think I can go that deep and fix it too? Thanks guys.

Welcome to the site. I think you saw my vid on Youtube of Stan's green Superliner. It's quite a truck and I'm wait'n my turn behind the wheel. I need to feel what 1000 ci of Mack motor is like(compared to my little 673).

Well, using 1" impact it STILL won't come loose! Oh boy..........this is going to be fun!

R cab onto a B frame: "BCR" was the designation

I know it's been done. Depending on what motor you have is how much room you have under the hood. I've seen a local guy do a late model type chassis and had to raise the cab up like 4" to get it to clear motor. The one thing you'll find is the front axle is wider on the R chassis and the tires will be on the outside edge of front wheel well.

Well, as for air lines.............there are lots of variations and might be kinda hard to pinpoint the right one especially if truck was changed from it's original layout. As for charging and 12v conversion, did you leave the generator on it? Did you change over to NEG ground? What all did you change out? Welcome to BMT!

Well, my schedule shows that weekend OPEN! Guess I'll pencil it in and if nothing goes awry I'll make the trek over.

There is a few Mack shows on the East coast. Not sure which one he might have mentioned? Watt's is having a get together in the fall, then there is the Lititz show. Might want to keep an eye on the "truck show" forum. That will have the updated shows coming up this year.

What I learned also, is apparently my tranny is an older version then yours? Being mine has 2 1/4" socket and yours 2 3/4". Hopefully that doesn't change the speedo parts? Time will tell.