Freightrain

Since you got them chemically stripped, I be more apt to cut the panel off and weld in new. It's good clean metal, so fix it right while it's apart.

Now that's COOL!

Ya, with that weight...extra gears will help. I know my triplex is way better then a Duplex as I'll shift it like a duplex sometimes to just see how it does. It really takes the wind out of the old girl with that lack of gears. Not that it's quick to begin with...but even with my meager load(14K lb) it really makes a difference.

That's a tad bit BRIGHT!! Yowza (of course my truck is grease black so what can I say?) What color is the body going to be?

There is a steel hooded R for sale locally I saw the other day. Big dump on it, can't recall if offset cab or not? Seems it had a big front overhang, not familiar enough to know what model it is. I was going to try to post a pic, but won't be around to take pic for a couple days.

Herbs got you covered. As for the Quad being better then Duplex? Not sure you'll notice unless you put some load on it as you only gain a few extra gears(besides the Lo/lo holes which are only good for slow movement).

crd112 is the size of rearend(I'd say pretty big, not actually knowing what it is myself) Depending on which quad box(single or double overdrive) is how fast you'll be. I'm thinking you'll be a bit slow(maybe around 50mph?)

Dennis is President of Buckeye Vintage Haulers.

Glad to have you back. Sounds like ya hardly got anything to do now............. (now that's a list! ) Take it easy.

On my B, I put a spin on base back behind the drivers tank(right by fittings) and plumbed it in. Even put separator style filter on it to get rid of water. I left the stock unit on motor. Since I put on dual exhaust it really hides it so it's not even noticable, plus I have my big generator box there too.

I remember someone asking before, but never remembered the answer. Maybe I should hook mine up? Not that I ever worry about cold weather or moisture in the lines. Curious if it works?

I got one of those too...only it's only got one line to it, as the other has been disconnected/removed(on bottom). Doesn't leak, never knew what it was for either. Got to be some kind of valve/regulator? Diaphram on bottom, likely a spring under the large nut on top? Controls something?

Sounds like Dennis. Never dealt with the fellow, but he deals in B model stuff. check out www.oldmacks.com

Welcome aboard Steve. Hope you have fun with your new "toy".

So I should fill the filter to the top, instead of just the 3 gal I put in first time. I don't think I can crank it enough to bleed it now? or should I? That is why I never let mine fire right off, especially after sitting a week or so. I let it crank a few, then give it some throttle to kick it off. Dave, I've run Rotella 15w-40 in mine for 7 yrs now and it's fine. Pulls 55psi running down the road, about 15-20 at hot idle. Doesn't burn hardly a drop all summer.

I've always wondered if the full flow would "fill up" after you got it running? I've loosened the fill cap and nothing there, though never left if off for long. Maybe I should? My dipstick was kinda screwy, so I remarked it after I put 3 gal in it(as full), then put 3 gal in filter. After a week or so sitting, it usually drains a bit back into pan and shows a bit overfull. I recheck after running a bit and it's at the full mark on stick. I pulled out one of my original operator manuals and it says 15qt cap. So, just under 4 gal in pan, then I need to fill filter housing too? BTW, ya I run Rotella 15w40 in mine.

Interesting Glenn....I was told it held 24qt(6gal), so that's what I've always put in mine, which has fullflow filter in it. I've put 3 in the pan and 3 in the filter and started it. I've never heard of the "bleeding", but maybe that is why mine always takes a 5-8 secs to get oil pressure when I start it? This being my 7th year running it, it's never had any issues, but strange to hear this new information.

I think the real issue was working them too hard and they had faults(like most anything else). For a toy, it should be fine.

She's a biggie!

For once a weekend..........I'm not too worried about the noise. Heck...ya ever hear my truck at full sing on the highway? HUH?? WHAT??? CAN'T HEAR YA....... The starter is the LEAST of my worries LOL!

Wow...this is starting to sound scary. I knew that it took ALOT of air, but I was hoping that I could daisy chain some tanks, but with what you guys are saying(and I understand) that the pipes have to be large enough to not restrict anything, plus more headaches and possible leaks. With my little short WB, adding anything is near impossible, especially behind the cab as trailer would swing and hit it. I suppose if I removed the battery boxes, I could add a 40 gal tank(looka like to fuel tank) and that would suffice? Have to do some soul searching and alot of brainstorming before I dig into this too far I guess. I suppose the best bet would be find a truck and get the set up off it. All known and working. Thanks guys.

Sign up for www.photobucket.com. It's simple and free(don't let them convince you that you have to pay to upgrade anything). You can then download as many pictures as you like then you can post the link to them from here. It's a common thing to do it that way as most of these boards don't have the storage space for alot of pictures(especially large ones). Looks great, and hope to see more pictures.

I think the single intake version is 170 hp, and the split model is 187 hp(something to that effect). I've been told that mine runs pretty well, and I guess that's the reason?

Glenn, I was poking around on I-R site and saw the "lubricated' versions. I realize I would be best off to make sure to get the right starter(and check engagement) to make sure it would fully engage properly as to not eat up the ring gear. The air tank would be the biggest issue, as I was hoping to make room on the truck...not fill up MORE space LOL! Had thoughts of daisy chaining a few smaller round tanks(std issue stuff), and hang them under frame. I could hang two on each side of truck, one set where batteries were, and one set behind my diesel genset on drivers side. I know the more the better, but would have to work that out before going too far with it. Running out of air would be a bad thing with this set up, as usually where I go....there AREN'T more trucks to use as "air chargers". I would definitely have air system totally separate from rest of truck, using a one way valve to charge. Maybe even a extra electric soleniod to shut if off while truck is off? Double reduntant? Something to think about. Think about it though. 15 secs of air is still quite a long time. Even after sitting in the garage all week, it doesn't take 5 secs to get starter. Sometimes I let it crank a few times just to get oil circulating before I let it fire off. With air, I guess I'd just hold the pedal(feed it fuel) and let it start. It's always been a good running engine and starts in single digits with NO ether! (tried and tested). Sure not with air starter, but won't be an issue now. Guess I need to poke around and find a starter first, then some tanks. Long term project for next winter? Flynpig: Ya, I'm familiar with Optima batteries. Nice, but I am not into the big price tags for what it is. I still run regular battery in my race car with no issues. I usually change it every few years and rotate it into one of my other hot rods. I still run (4) 12v batteries in the Mack (which is way overkill for it), but it will darn near run down the road on the starter. They are still in good shape, but I'm sure they are nearing their lifetime quota that is why I'm thinking changing over. Thanks for all the input guys.

Mine sits in the garage ALL winter, so cold is not an issue. Ya, as for noisy? I'll keep a "small" muffler on it LOL!!! Ok, for the big question: Do you use a soleniod valve to actuate the starter(using button on dash), or do you have a large foot valve in floor(or someplace)?