Freightrain

IT'S OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YAHOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ok, sorry. Just been a long two weeks of messing with it. After giving up yesterday, I sprayed it with penetrating oil. I went out this morning and it near fell off with my fingers. Yes! So, after I get the little tailhousing off I'll be replacing the seal. I do need both speedo gears though, as the drive gear is chipped pretty bad and is probably why it tore up the driven gear. Drive gear: SW447250 5 tooth Driven gear: 154-P1 13 tooth I think part of the problem with the leak is the fact the rear bearings are loose. I can't get enough umph to see slop in shaft, but I left the tailhousing off and installed the flange again. I could move the rollers a bit on the rear bearing. This is telling me that I need to remove some shim. There is one large shim and one .004 shim. Not sure if .004 will be enough, and if I need more I can surface grind the thick one, leaving the .004 to add back in if need be. I don't have any books to show what is what and since tranny is full of thick grease I can't check rotational torque. I think this might have something to do with why speedo stripped out. If the shaft was walking, then the gear would be out of location, causing mis alignment and possible problems(chips in teeth). I know the tranny has some slop in main box, as there is an identical double bearing arrangement on the back of it. Don't think I can go that deep and fix it too? Thanks guys.

Welcome to the site. I think you saw my vid on Youtube of Stan's green Superliner. It's quite a truck and I'm wait'n my turn behind the wheel. I need to feel what 1000 ci of Mack motor is like(compared to my little 673).

Well, using 1" impact it STILL won't come loose! Oh boy..........this is going to be fun!

R cab onto a B frame: "BCR" was the designation

I know it's been done. Depending on what motor you have is how much room you have under the hood. I've seen a local guy do a late model type chassis and had to raise the cab up like 4" to get it to clear motor. The one thing you'll find is the front axle is wider on the R chassis and the tires will be on the outside edge of front wheel well.

Well, as for air lines.............there are lots of variations and might be kinda hard to pinpoint the right one especially if truck was changed from it's original layout. As for charging and 12v conversion, did you leave the generator on it? Did you change over to NEG ground? What all did you change out? Welcome to BMT!

Well, my schedule shows that weekend OPEN! Guess I'll pencil it in and if nothing goes awry I'll make the trek over.

There is a few Mack shows on the East coast. Not sure which one he might have mentioned? Watt's is having a get together in the fall, then there is the Lititz show. Might want to keep an eye on the "truck show" forum. That will have the updated shows coming up this year.

What I learned also, is apparently my tranny is an older version then yours? Being mine has 2 1/4" socket and yours 2 3/4". Hopefully that doesn't change the speedo parts? Time will tell.

Wow....you're luckier them me...sorta. I've spend days and days and can't get mine apart. Heat and 3/4" impact has NO affect at all. Bummer yours is broke, hopefully mine doesn't run into problems like that. When and IF I get mine apart I might be looking for a speedo gear. What's yours like? I definitely need the driven gear(little pencil part), but since I've stripped two of them so far I think the gear on shaft might be damaged? Won't know til I get it apart.....IF I get it apart.

Welcome Jeff. There are some guys here that are well versed in all diesels. What kind of information are you looking for?

I have straight pipes on mine too, and even though they are quite taller then cab it does spit alot of stuff on the roof. I've been wanting to put turn outs back on it to get this problem solved, but I like the look of the straight tops. Guess I need to rebuild the motor to get rid of the oil/soot/crap from blowing out the pipes? It used to be really bad when I parked outside and any kind of moisture built up in the stacks! The stuff would literally run down the windshield! Ugh.....glad it's inside now.

The "unishift" was a 10 spd air split Duplex.

Welcome to the site! Lots of information on this board.

Ya, I remember that the last time it was up. Seems to have more pictures this time. What a gold mine, and likely worth the asking price! Could you imagine having to truck all that stuff somewhere and the cost involved? Ohhhh, that makes my head swim. Could be worth a small fortune once you get it all organized and priced out.

Maybe if I get bored the next week or so maybe I'll kinda pull the unit and take some pictures? It's a very simple device and I know alot of guys hate them but I think with some cleaning, especially that "return valve"(whatever it is called) that make it go back and forth is the real culprit for most guys.

Great videos. I used a Sony handy cam to do mine and I made a little sheetmetal bracket that I bolted to coat hook on passenger side. It alleviates the shake. Your truck sure does sound great. What for exhaust do you have on it? It really barks nice.

Ya, I saw that too. I soaked it up and blew thru it with 120# of air so I know it's not clogged shut(the felt part). Didn't try to run without it, might just to see what happens.

Well, as I work on leaks on the ol B this winter I got to thinking about the wipers. They "work", but wondered if maybe over the years(and leaky air compressor) they might use some work. It turned out to be a very simple project and now they work better, faster and smoother. Hmmmm. Pulling the wiper motor requires two bolts and three air lines. Simple. Didn't have to really mark anything as most only fits one way. After getting the motor assy on the bench I did a quick clean up in the parts washer to get it done to metal(45 yrs of oil build up under the hood). I then proceeded to remove the two end caps(6 bolts each). The passenger side is simple, the drivers side is a bit more complex with an arm that latches the piston to the return valve on the end cap. Slip the arm off the pin and now you can dismantle it completely. Unbolt the four bolts on the center cap where the shaft output is. First note the position of output arm as it needs to be put back at this location to line up with wiper arm again. If you miss it, it's a simple adjustment that can be done while motor is on firewall again. The piston only comes out the passenger side of housing. Watch as you slip it apart as there is a felt seal on each end. My whole unit was sludge city after many years of a worn air compressor pumping oil into the system. I carefully cleaned all the pieces in parts washer, including the felt seals which one stayed on, the other slipped off. I carefully reinstalled it after drying piston. Using some WD40 on rubber seals(on each end also) I put piston back into housing. I carefully had pulled the paper gaskets off housing and was able to reuse them. I regreased the gear output assy and set it in place. At first I thought it was in right, but found that it's indexed with a hole and I had it 180 degrees out. I put it back in correctly and installed unit on truck. After hooking some air to truck I tested the unit. WOW....lickity split they woosh back and forth quite smoothly and a bit quicker at full speed then before. No doubt after removing all the sludge I knew it would improve some. With only 1.5 hours invested in this little project, I'm quite happy with the results. Granted I didn't "restore" it to showroom condition(no beadblasting or such), since the truck really doesn't warrant that. Anything cleaner then when taken off is a great improvement. If anyone has problems with their air wipers, I'd suggest a little time be spent and you'll be pleasantly surprised how easy it is to improve the operation. I think alot of guys have wipers that don't return, and I think the little valve actuator on the end is probably the culprit and some simple cleaning will do wonders. Sorry I didn't get ANY pictures of this as I kinda just did it and once I got it back together figured it would make a neat little article. Have fun.

Don't break a sweat on it, in all it just means that the two axles WON'T interchange. You'll need to use crd118 axles in the new carrier. You're crd62 axles won't fit.

There should be some drag on shaft when trying to turn it. If it spins free, then it's broke. This is the same design they use in std cars(before they all were front whl drive and elec. fans).

Mine takes 2 1/4" socket. Fits both the rear pinion and tranny nut. I got the pinion apart this afternoon, but the tranny nut is being a bit more stubborn. Tried heating a few times(like when I did the pinion), but can't get it to budge. I gave up and will try again Tues night. I bought my socket from Sears way back in '01 when did pinion first time. It didn't seem to mind the 3/4" drive impact I used today and it's not a impact socket. That's the strange thing, when I got pinion apart I already put a speedy sleeve on it the last time. It had two good marks from seal in it so I guess I'll have to put another sleeve on it. I can't really figure why it would tear up a sleeve in only 6 yrs. I was thinking, maybe the fact the rear end might have been a bit low on grease, thus allowing it to run too dry and thus burn it up? OR, was it the fact I run it too "fast" all the time and that is why it burnt up. Can't really think that was the issue, but I'm just thinking out loud.

Baby steps.................... LOL! One step at a time is all it takes.

Well, got the valve covers off, ya it's a 673 n/a. The bolt gaskets were gone(pretty much), thus I think the problem why it was leaking. It was seeping around the gasket and even worse around the bolts and down draft tube mounts. I know I have a big pile of gaskets, hopefully I have bolt rings too. Doubling them up was on my list, plus I was going to check gasket crush before making them permanent. I was missing one fitting to adapt air lines, so guess I'll work on seals tomorrow. I did get the cotter pin out of tranny, though not sure how I'll get new one in? Time will tell. Really looking forward to getting this thing DRIED up some.

Well, duh.........I got the cobwebs outta my head and dug up my manual I got years back and found a layout of Duplex. That's close enough to give me an idea of what's in there. Terry, I see the layout of the twin bearings. Thanks for the heads up, and the offer gvam. One question: How the HECK did they get that cotter pin in the nut? It's barely enough room for socket in that companion flange area let alone enough to pin in there? I know I can get it ripped out, but getting new one back in?? That will be a real trick. Got my hands on 3/4" impact, picked up 1/2" line to power it from my compressor so after some quick plumbing I'll fire it up and see if I can get it apart. Love to get the little leaks all fixed up. I think I'll work on the valve covers again next. Did them 5 yrs ago and they've got to leak'n again pretty good. What kinda glue do you guys use to seal this up? Apparently the Ultra silicone I used didnt hold up. Should I use a hardening style gasket maker? Thanks guys.