thomastractorsvc

Had that in my 92 RW I was driving in the early morning and it started raining then the headlights quit and I could smell hot plastic. Pulled over and waited until daylight, ended up getting cancelled due the rain so I went to the Mack dealer and spent $20 something on a 15 amp breaker been good since. I ordered some new breakers for it. I took the dash apart and found a couple hot wires just laying inside so I taped them up. Found some barely bare wires on the r/h headlight so I redid them to make sure. I think its something in the headlight circuit. The headlights work on low but if you switch the to high it will kick the breaker or if they stay on the accessory circuit will kick off then the headlights. I always fix bad wiring but without a good schematic its takes a while. This truck has the split headlights ( they don't run off the bus bar) they run out the firewall on both sides up to the lights. I am planning on rewiring the headlights and adding relays and doing away with the dual circuit setup that should eliminate and shorts or touching wires.

Has anyone experienced this. No previous issues I was out trucking parked on Friday. Sunday afternoon I took heater cover off to fix air cylinder. I reassembled everything fired up the truck and ran the fan for a minute or two going through all the positions and checking the vent discharge. The defrosters wasn't that strong, it was blowing out the bottom so I shut the truck off looked in side the side vent and moved the selector and realized I need to turn key on so I did and I got was a clicking noise from the power shut down solenoid in the dash. No power to the dash or lights etc... I pull the center panel off and I am getting 12 volts but its still clicking I disconnect the hot side to the switch it shows 12v and I can start the truck but no power to dash, all lights seemed to work. Hook the wire back up no key or power and it clicks. So I pull the solenoid and test it tests good but I replace it Monday morning. Still doing same thing. So I decide that I must have a open hot I pull all fuses and start replacing them one by one after checking them for continuity, all installed nothing I pull the relays and check them the Emergency Stop Lamp relay has a broken pieces of plastic so I figure it may be grounded out to the aluminum fuse panel. I pull it out of the mount and wrap in electrical tape. I try it and everything works. Run the truck most of today the power shut off to the dash like before, I turned key switch off and on again everything came back about 15 minutes later did it again would not reset so I brought the truck home and switched trucks to finish the day. Ideas anyone? I been thinking of it may be easier to just rewiring the interior as I already rewired the lights to rear and to the hood.

my 2 cents. My buddys tarp motor was acting like that and one of the poles was broken free in the motor. This was found after he brought it to my shop and he already replaced the switch and wire. I disconnected the wires and hooked up to my multi meter they showed 12v ots both sides in accordance with the switch, if you grounded the motor it would work, I told him the motor was bad he didn't believe me so I took one I had and hooked it up and showed him. Took the old one apart and the terminal was broken loose in the motor.

Will do I mostly have been on face book haven't been here on a little bit

No still has it in the jewelry box probably most valuable item in there lol

I finally found a engine so the A54 back on the restoration list. Need a window regulator for passenger door and would take a window if available also (1) A54 hood emblem I have extra A Model series parts we could swap or I can always give you some money

you can see the rust between the frame rails on first picture of the under side right above the air tank. Being it is from Chicago i am sure it has frame issues, the floor pan a has patch panels screwed to the fire wall

I think it is the high coolant temp sensor. It only comes on when I am pulling heavy and hard and the temp works it way towards 200. I watched it yesterday and when it was just above 195 degree mark the light came on. It stays on even after the temp settles back down. My jake quit working again so I am going to pull the valve covers today and check the valves myself and the jake wires. I am glad I spent so much money at Westfall Mack in Kansas City to get this issue fixed. I check my miles less than 1200 and since they put there hands on it been one thing after another.

whats left just picked up another truck need some stuff

I called about a set of rears must pick up I was going to buy all the crd 92/93 but they didn't want to ship

Been working " Big Ugly " a lot and had it in to the Mack dealer as they were doing overhead specials for$475. While it was there I had them check the "jake" as it was starting to cut out and do a service. With in 700 miles of having it in I had started losing power and EGT went up to about 1000. I pressure tested system found leak at the air compressor inlet separator/filter valve. Got that fixed and installed a boost gauge. Hard pull 90 to 100K I am getting 30 psi boost egt is 900 to 950 no smoke, temp gauge shows about 190. If I let up and baby it egt about 850 to 900 boost about the same temp stays around 185. Oil pressure around 60psi both ways hard or babying. If I baby it the shut down light does not come on, if I pull hard it will. the lighting bolt does not come on, truck does not lose power, does not shut off. If i turn truck off it will reset. I have checked coolant as Superdog thought they may be the issue, I checked wiring to the sensors and unplugged the pin plug on the pump and checked the wires all seem good same with the ecovance. What other sensors would make the light come on without shutting the truck off or throwing a code?

Looking pretty nice

what did you find out?

looks like he has more than one, not a bad price until you figure shipping

Should be a heat shield then the hard copper heater lines on top. The studs secure the shield and clamps that hold the hard lines.

How much? Is the chrome good? PM me ship to 64075

Just bought from pai gave $29 each they are poly

That's the one. On mine only the rear crd93 has the transverse rod. We're those on air ride? My 85 on neway has the rods on both rears

The parts truck with old style housings are 4.64 I have 4.42 now that one is bad for sure, the other the breather was missing and it was full of dirt so

On my new acquisition R it has the bracket with transverse rod that on the rear carrier mounts to the frame and uses the dog bone style torque rod that mounts to the cross member. I have found a set of 4.64s but they are without the holes for the mounting bracket for the transverse rod and it uses the old style torque rod. I have been looking for a new style cut off but in my area slim pickings, or the ratios are to high or low. I have checked on rebuilding or remans but cant justify the costs yet. Has anyone drilled the housings and used bolts for the bracket? I don't want to run the old style as I would probably make it the rears feel loose with a 16ft box grossing 80k.

Are Mack transmission side mount PTOs interchangeable or do they fit only specific transmissions?

Sold it last spring

My B61 had the single compartment tank, I up graded to spring brakes for parking and safety. Had no issues running it on a single air system

I crawled around mine it looks like it had a side mount one before and the back of the trans is stamped pto and some other markings by the lower center cap on the rear of the transmission

Have you adjusted valves before? Not much difference rotate engine and adjust the tag on the motor should have cold valve specs. You can mark the balancer to that may make it easier