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On 7/12/2025 at 12:34 PM, Geoff Weeks said:

The tip turbine and Low Flow cooling were both attempts to better charge cooling without have to re design the front of the truck for enough room for an CAC cooling radiator (Air to air).

once trucks were being redesigned anyway, the reasons for the tip turbine and low flow systems went away. Having the charge cooler in front of the radiator give the best cooling, and what has become the std today. 

At the time, Mack tip turbine was revolutionary, both Cat and Cummins were still using water cooled aftercoolers, and low thermostat temps, to walk the fine line between good block temp and enough cooling for the charge air. 

 After Macks success, Cummins used the low flow system to run the "super cooled" multi-pass radiator coolant through the aftercooler, before sending it the engine. Cat never did and opted for the cooler in front of the radiator, which meant that their engines above 400 hp could not be fitted to many trucks. Cat engines below 400 hp still had the old water cooled aftercooler.

I didn't know that about the Cummins low flow engines. I know that they were mostly hated around here in tractors, they seemed to go through fan belts frequently and you'd have to keep the radiators sterile to keep them cool. The weird oil thermostats they put on Cummins later weren't much liked either

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13 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Not sure of year.  Only thing I have is serial on motor.

EtAZ673C 7S8762. If that means anything.

I

E- Mack diesel engine. T- trubocharged. A-single stage aftercooler. Z-maximum 10 grams per bhp/hr emissions level. Certified in California 1975-1976. 673- approximate engine displacement. C- variation of the basic engine unit, or(obsolete) emissions standard.

Your engine was rated at 295 HP and governed at 1800 rpm. If there was a B in the engine number it would indicate a Dynatard engine brake.

Mack ETAZ673C specs.jpg

Edited by steve s.
more info
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8 minutes ago, Freightrain said:

 What I need to know is the serial number after the Etaz673c, does that correlate with anything?

7S8762 ??

Sorry Larry, I don't have any information on your serial number. The Mack Museum could probably tell you more.

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49 minutes ago, fjh said:

Me thinks just different fueling! Comes down to gearing again Need gears for the 300 plus!285 not so much!

Yup, from what I have read.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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1 hour ago, mowerman said:

it seems like its the same size as my block,,bob

It is, just fuel and timing is different.

 

The "673" denotes a Thermodyne(multi gear trans) and the 675/676 was Maxidyne(5spd).

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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1 hour ago, fjh said:

Me thinks just different fueling! Comes down to gearing again Need gears for the 300 plus!285 not so much!

Im fairly certain 285 Maxidyne is a air to air intercooled tip turbine job

A 300 Maxidyne is series air to air, so water cooling and tip turbine intercooled  job

A little more fuel and a more efficient intercooling and 300 Maxidyne was produced after 285 

In the Thermodyne it was the same and 320 went to 350 hp

We never had the range of motors, transmissions and backends etc that was available in the U.S.

So I have never heard of a 315 or a 295 hp motor 

Even gear boxes  5, 6, 10 and 12 speed 

None of the other numbers you blokes mention

 

Paul

 

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And even before the Maxitorque box was around, pretty much everything had a quad box and very occasional duplex

I have never seen or heard of triplex or simplex (think that was the name of Mack 5 speed) in Australia 

Paul

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19 minutes ago, mrsmackpaul said:

And even before the Maxitorque box was around, pretty much everything had a quad box and very occasional duplex

I have never seen or heard of triplex or simplex (think that was the name of Mack 5 speed) in Australia 

Paul

Odviously things are done differently down under! Paul! Couldn’t get 650 v8 here ever I would like to have seen one! With a vmac pump! Very interesting! We were able to at one point order the cam and turbo here through the Mack system we did two trucks up with the Aus turbo and cam with the pump jacked up they pulled like know body’s business!

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And yet our close neighbors in NewZealand had a bigger range of Macks as some were Australian based and some fully imported from the U.S.  RHD 

Seems to be no rhyme nor reason to how it all went

Anyways, back the build

Oh I think 675 was the biggest power output of the E9 offered in Australia 

 

Paul

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I remember a video from way back showing a big power KW getting out run by a Mack up a hill in Australia . The KW driver was like WTH!  I tried searching for it but never find it.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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What is the common way to get the balancer off the front of crank?  No holes to use for puller.  Get a real big one and grab around the outside?

I don't remember what I did to the 237 when I removed it and swapped my 673?

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Well. I just did one last month.. i sprayed it with pen oil, heated the flange with a torch, and used a dead blow to knock the balancer. It took 30+ minutes, and it was on a spare engine that was outside for years..   very rusty.

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Here's my 1 cent opinion- I've driven most transmissions that have been mentioned here, and my favorite is the 18 speed. However, you seldom if ever even need to split the gears in the low side, so I think your first choice of a 13 speed and 3.55 rears would be the cat's ass. I'm pretty sure you'd love it, and there's probably more of them around than there are 18's so they're probably a bit cheaper too.

Now, as far as tip turbines, charge air coolers, dynatards, fire rings, etc. I have no clue. None.

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Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

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2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Well. I just did one last month.. i sprayed it with pen oil, heated the flange with a torch, and used a dead blow to knock the balancer. It took 30+ minutes, and it was on a spare engine that was outside for years..   very rusty.

Yup they can be nasty!

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4 hours ago, Freightrain said:

What is the common way to get the balancer off the front of crank?  No holes to use for puller.  Get a real big one and grab around the outside?

I don't remember what I did to the 237 when I removed it and swapped my 673?

The balancer is separate from the crank hub if i remember right?   terry:MackLogo:

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Thanks guys.  Kinda figured I just knocked it off or I would have a tool from the last time.  I'll get to spraying it with oil now.

Terry, yes, it bolts to a flange that slips onto crank.  I remember warming it up in the oven to get it to slip on easily.

I'm considering removing the inj. pump so I can regasket the side covers.  How bad is it to get it back correctly?  Timed?  Etc?

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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