Moparmike Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 ok guys looking my truck over I see the grease is coming from the seal that's behind the big nut holding the rear yoke in the rearend is this something I can do or need to be done by shop I know on my race care it helps with the lash specs but not to sure on this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 You can do it, hardest part is getting the yoke off. I always have to use a yoke puller, but I live in PA…Some people have luck getting them off with a hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 Air hammer.It can beat faster than me and never gets tired.But ever time i have a x /ray done on my hands or arms it reminds me how carefull you need to be with them.I can pull most u/joints with the one i have. 1 Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 1 hour ago, theakerstwo said: Air hammer.It can beat faster than me and never gets tired.But ever time i have a x /ray done on my hands or arms it reminds me how carefull you need to be with them.I can pull most u/joints with the one i have. As long as it’s a snap on air hammer! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 i would recommend checking up/down end play (slop) before taking things apart.you can have better idea if it's just bad seal or worn internal parts. second thing ;; cleanliness is Godlyness . clean completely around yoke before attempted removal.won't do any good having the dirt in the bearings. never know i've seen yokes slide off with slight "tapping". 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.E.D Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 This could be as easy as a bad seal ,or like mechohaulic said bearings could have some play and be off on the preload...if it's just the seal check the yoke for wear around the area where the seal rides..there are speedy sleeves if there is a groove on the yoke . Red Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 after clean up, drop the drive shaft , remove hold down bolt , take off the thick "flat washer" replace the hold down bolt leaving very small gap between yoke and bolt. no puller available I kept the excess threaded shaft from brake cans and made pullers or this case a pusher . using fine thread nut or two welded together. heavy flat plate with 4 holes bolt plate to yoke, 5/8 hole in center of plate with threaded rod through. threaded rod pushes against the hold down bolt. i always had the yoke pullers ;;just case ones not there. seal removers saved alot of time also. no need to pull the cover, unless worn parts show. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 8 minutes ago, theakerstwo said: Also remember a seal can leak front air getting in the trans but will leak out of the front first.Air can get inside due to a bad o/ring in the air cylinders or a leaking air PTO as well. if i'm seeing correctly, the picture is of the rear/rear. not seeing a dif lock housing, shouldn't have air in the rear/rear. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 22 minutes ago, theakerstwo said: Also remember a seal can leak front air getting in the trans but will leak out of the front first.Air can get inside due to a bad o/ring in the air cylinders or a leaking air PTO as well. Also don’t forget dirty breathers. It also could very well be the bearing. In another post he said the truck was hit in the side pushing the rear or springs sideways some. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 55 minutes ago, mechohaulic said: if i'm seeing correctly, the picture is of the rear/rear. not seeing a dif lock housing, shouldn't have air in the rear/rear. I did not read enough because i was thinking of trans seal. Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 no biggie... right?? so the rear drive does most of the pushing, therefore the temp is higher.. and with a clogged vent, the pressure has to go some where, just a thought.... Jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted March 6, 2022 Share Posted March 6, 2022 and another thing... get rid of the rubber "Dirt holder inner" ...I toss those out.... Can someone please tell me that I'm wrong, and why??? I like the yoke to be able to sling the dirt off rather than keep it jammed in there to cut the outer seal lip and get inside and cut a groove on the yoke.... jojo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted March 6, 2022 Share Posted March 6, 2022 19 minutes ago, Joey Mack said: and another thing... get rid of the rubber "Dirt holder inner" ...I toss those out.... Can someone please tell me that I'm wrong, and why??? I like the yoke to be able to sling the dirt off rather than keep it jammed in there to cut the outer seal lip and get inside and cut a groove on the yoke.... jojo Didn’t know that you could do that, makes sense! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted March 6, 2022 Share Posted March 6, 2022 if the yoke is installed, just take a box cutter to it.... gone.. new yoke, slide it off and give to youre purse puppy as a chew toy.. just sayin' ... if i'm wrong... well the forum will say so.... jojo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Remmers Posted March 6, 2022 Share Posted March 6, 2022 54 minutes ago, Joey Mack said: if the yoke is installed, just take a box cutter to it.... gone.. new yoke, slide it off and give to youre purse puppy as a chew toy.. just sayin' ... if i'm wrong... well the forum will say so.... jojo I had to put some thought into this. I don't think there is any good solution to dealing with road salt but one instance where the dirt seal would be beneficial is a truck that does asphalt paving. That crap gets on and sticks to everything under a truck. You wouldn't want a chunk of blacktop stuck on the yoke against the seal. At least the rubber seal on a mack yoke allows dirt to throw out more so than the pressed on steel slinger on an Eaton or junk Rockwell rear. Growing up with mack rears I learned how crucial vent maintenance is but other brands, especially with u-tube breathers are almost zero maintenance. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted March 6, 2022 Share Posted March 6, 2022 (edited) 8 minutes ago, Hans Remmers said: I had to put some thought into this. I don't think there is any good solution to dealing with road salt but one instance where the dirt seal would be beneficial is a truck that does asphalt paving. That crap gets on and sticks to everything under a truck. You wouldn't want a chunk of blacktop stuck on the yoke against the seal. At least the rubber seal on a mack yoke allows dirt to throw out more so than the pressed on steel slinger on an Eaton or junk Rockwell rear. Growing up with mack rears I learned how crucial vent maintenance is but other brands, especially with u-tube breathers are almost zero maintenance. Good point, so let’s just say cutting it out is truck application specific. Although you might have a better chance at hitting the lottery then having what your saying happen… Edited March 6, 2022 by Onyx610 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Remmers Posted March 6, 2022 Share Posted March 6, 2022 Also as for yoke removal, 95% of my 2 jaw puller usage has been for yoke removal with no jaws in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted March 6, 2022 Share Posted March 6, 2022 I use this https://ferrumtools.net/products/heavy-duty-yoke-puller?_pos=2&_sid=206822162&_ss=r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moparmike Posted March 6, 2022 Author Share Posted March 6, 2022 I replaced the vent a while back that could have been the problem it was leaking before I got hit but I was thinking it was the side cover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted March 6, 2022 Share Posted March 6, 2022 Dunno about this trouble getting the yoke off, all I have tried and its been a few over the years just slide right off, might be all the salt used on the roads over there and all the heat we cop over here If there's any groove in the yoke just slip a speedy sleeve over to provide a perfect surface again As already mentioned, check the breather and wash it out properly More oil leaks are caused by blocked breathers than crook seals Paul 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 21 hours ago, Onyx610 said: Good point, so let’s just say cutting it out is truck application specific. Although you might have a better chance at hitting the lottery then having what your saying happen… the yoke dirt seals are in the same category as brake drum dust covers. one app they keep out stones; another they hold too much heat in. as mentioned yoke seals have pos/neg depending on app. yoke is being removed for seal replacement, take the dirt seal off if needed don't cut . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 just need to clear this up.... I remove the rubber ring from the yoke... i do not cut the dirt seal lip off the pinion seal... the rubber ring, in my world has has dirt inside therefore cutting the dirt seal lip on the pinion seal.. jojo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BACKinMACK Posted March 8, 2022 Share Posted March 8, 2022 (edited) I am about to do the seal on my also. I have been heatin and beatin most of my life but as I get older I don't like surprises. So I got the puller. Tiger tools are the best but the most expensive. I looked for the best deal for what I do. I maintain my own stuff not a shop. so price was the factor. Found a new CAL-VAN on EBAY model 497 for $267, offered $230, came back at $250. So I took the deal. free shipping. Sure its made in China. My truck has 6 yokes, even if I only change two that aint a bad price to pay for knowing that yoke will come off. I was gonna make one but a 2" annular cutter 1-3/4" steel rod. 2" won't fit u-joint cap space, some 1/2" flat stock and a couple 3/8" drill bits, drill and tap for the threaded rod from my jaw puller adds up fast not to mention time. So anyways the rubber dam your talking about is behind that cup shaped piece behind the yoke? To cut or not cut. That will be the question. My concern is what is causing the seal to fail. Could be dirt behind that rubber which I had never heard of or loose bearing. Only 288,000 mi on 1999 RD688S triaxle dump. Time will tell. When it gets warmer cause I work outside. My advise get the puller. After I bought mine I found one the for $244. buy now. Will send picture of my leak later its on a different computer. Edited March 8, 2022 by BACKinMACK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BACKinMACK Posted March 8, 2022 Share Posted March 8, 2022 I got another question on this seal change. Will a lot of oil be lost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted March 8, 2022 Share Posted March 8, 2022 No you shouldn't loose stuff all Get organised and be quick, I doubt much more than a drip or two will come out Paul 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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