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seal in Rear-end yoke


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30 minutes ago, mrsmackpaul said:

No you shouldn't loose stuff all 

Get organised and be quick, I  doubt much more than a drip or two will come out

 

Paul 

So you think its better to pull the seal only instead of unbolting the seal "retainer"?

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Yes I agree it must be steam cleaned. These pics were after I drove it home from seller. About an hour and half drive. The wind must have forced the oil back making me think the leak was at the gasket not the seal.

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Here is another question for the group. I am third owner, second owner had it about a year and put less than 2000 mi on it. I contacted the original owner about any PM history. looked at me like I was speaking Latin. My guess with 288,000 mi is the carrier lube is original. Don't know what MACK used for oil when built in 1999 but thinking it has plenty of life left. It is a dump truck from birth so very little long haul runs. Runs from pit to project locally. Pulling a tag and site work. It has been loaded heavy by looking at the springs. Changing them will be a project soon. At +- $250 for each carrier oil. In a perfect world I should change out the oil but my wallet is not designed for a perfect world. 44,000 rears Any advise?

Edited by BACKinMACK
add rear spring size
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yes, pull the seal housing and replace the o-ring behind the cover, and this will make seal replacement easier, and you can see it better. the pic of the spur shaft cover may be caused by the heavy rust.  being from Maine I am familiar with the effects of road salt in the winter. plus, I'm sure that truck hauled salt a few times, :) check that cover for holes. The rubber thing I mentioned is the ring you see on the yoke..  I was taught to throw that away.  I was hoping for other opinions on that one.  The main bolt is supposed to be replaced.  Mack # 3AX 1803...  make sure it has a good dose of lock tite on it.  it torques to 500 lbft.. And replace the u-joint straps as well. This is not a technical job, just may have a bit of labor, to get the yoke off. You got this, Jojo

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40 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

yes, pull the seal housing and replace the o-ring behind the cover, and this will make seal replacement easier, and you can see it better. the pic of the spur shaft cover may be caused by the heavy rust.  being from Maine I am familiar with the effects of road salt in the winter. plus, I'm sure that truck hauled salt a few times, :) check that cover for holes. The rubber thing I mentioned is the ring you see on the yoke..  I was taught to throw that away.  I was hoping for other opinions on that one.  The main bolt is supposed to be replaced.  Mack # 3AX 1803...  make sure it has a good dose of lock tite on it.  it torques to 500 lbft.. And replace the u-joint straps as well. This is not a technical job, just may have a bit of labor, to get the yoke off. You got this, Jojo

Thanks Jojo. I got a new cover. Didn't know about o-ring under seal housing. Will give my mack dealer a ring for that. What is you thoughts on the gear oil? And how much will I lose pulling that seal housing and spur shaft cover? Sorry your not in Maine to enjoy the weather. But it looks like you got your fair share of winter down there. Thanks again

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projects such as yours  is why i invested in a few different size seal pullers. with a seal puller no need to remove entire cover with  chance of dirt/grit going into bearing. in todays world not many have an opportunity to use a steam/pressure washer .side cover looks rusted out alot possible pin holes

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5 hours ago, BACKinMACK said:

So you think its better to pull the seal only instead of unbolting the seal "retainer"?

Well thats all I would do from the information I have at had

I try not to over complicate things

Most important thing is to get prepared before starting, I never steam clean anything before starting, I would like to but I have no access to one

This been said I would clean the area as best as I could and wash it down with petrol and take for a drive about to be sure I know exactly whats leaking 

Once I am sure of this I get well organized with parts and work out how I'm going to tackle the job and then make a start

The job is fairly simple, or at least to me it is so just getting things sorted before starting is the best plan

 

Paul

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8 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

yes, pull the seal housing and replace the o-ring behind the cover, and this will make seal replacement easier, and you can see it better. the pic of the spur shaft cover may be caused by the heavy rust.  being from Maine I am familiar with the effects of road salt in the winter. plus, I'm sure that truck hauled salt a few times, :) check that cover for holes. The rubber thing I mentioned is the ring you see on the yoke..  I was taught to throw that away.  I was hoping for other opinions on that one.  The main bolt is supposed to be replaced.  Mack # 3AX 1803...  make sure it has a good dose of lock tite on it.  it torques to 500 lbft.. And replace the u-joint straps as well. This is not a technical job, just may have a bit of labor, to get the yoke off. You got this, Jojo

Jojo, I can't see the o-ring behind the pinion bearing cover or the spur shaft cover. I see one at the cover for the bevel gear compartment. I like the idea of removing the PBC to swap out the seal. At the bench with a beer at my side. But swapping it out in place isn't much of a chore. More of a chance I could knock my beer over. I am working off of an exploded parts view of the carrier from my dealer. I will replace the bolt and straps. Than you for the help Jojo and all others who have chimed in.

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I only suggested pulling the thin bearing cover behind the yoke, because there seemed to be a lot of oil, . I didnt want you to have to take it back apart, for the o-ring or gasket behind the bearing cover.  Oh yeah,,  about youre beer...  I started putting my beer on a different bench,,  just in case I get jumpy..   Love it..  jojo

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the side cover for the spur shaft bearing, should have an o-ring.. they usually get flattened and hard as plastic, and stuck in the grove on the bearing housing..  if its not there,  well,,,theres the leak... jojo

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the suggesting of seal puller doesn't  pertain  just to this particular project. every job is different . having ability to clean before disassembly helps. also i'm relating to the days when there were gaskets not o-rings. pullimg covers and scraping gaskets had chance of gasket paper falling in the bearing. installing a new seal in the input housing is not easy with shaft sticking out either.   time savings with a puller .   a truck dead lined due to as-ole D O T inspector  " that's a bad oil leak " fix it or tow it. seal puller saved me alot of time  

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Got that right. Watched a D O T inspection many years ago. Here in this state they are part of the state police. Enjoyed watching him crawl around under that truck scraping up that automatic pistol without a care. Never know when a crime might pop up while inspecting a lowbed. Of coarse they don't pay for them.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/5/2022 at 6:47 PM, Joey Mack said:

and another thing...  get rid of the rubber "Dirt holder inner" ...I toss those out.... Can someone please tell me that I'm wrong, and why??? I like the yoke to be able to sling the dirt off rather than keep it jammed in there to cut the outer seal lip and get inside and cut a groove on the yoke....  jojo

Good call buddy I hate those dam things they can warp and take the seal out as well! we used to be able to get a double lip seal they were awsome But if you used one you need to delete that dust shield dodad or it Would take the seal out !!

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connecticut         D O T "inspectors" on paper are separate from state police. during inspections they usually wear coveralls. they might have guns locked in cars.  like all situations there are the good inspectors and the bad ones. 

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  • 2 months later...

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