Moparmike Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 ok guys I had my clutch and pressure plate replaced months back a few months after I got a 3/2 code while driving down the rode I checked code it's speed sensor I replaced both in bell housing and tail shade code still there now the truck has lost some power cause now I have to down shift more to climb hills that I never had a problem on also the truck is hard to start have to keep turning g ot or either spray it for faster start even after it's hot it's kinda hard to start but not as bad as first start of the day I'm thinking ring gear has moved on pressure plate if I remove the sensor in the bell housing truck will still start but still hard if I remove cam sensor on front the motor the tru k will not crank any guidance would be great this has been a great truck last 4 years but I can't keep dealing with it as it is now thanks clutch from mack pressure plate from outside source Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.E.D Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 When you replaced clutch, did you take the flywheel to get resurfaced?if so , did you make sure you got your flywheel back and not someone else's? Also I could have sworn there was some post here or service bulletins about the depth of those sensors , and shims.. someone correct me if I'm wrong. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 (edited) Engine position sensor has the shims. The speed sensor is turned in until bottomed out and then back out half turn. Edited January 20 by Onyx610 Spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 The speed sensor code can cause a derate in HP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 all the way in till touching then 1 turn out... sorry onyx.. no dissrespect. on the rpm/tdc sensor for the cam,, pull the teardrop shim out and put it in youre pocket,, run the truck.... another thing.... this engine will run on one or the other speed sensor's but it it will run like crap and start hard... so... un-plug 1 of the sensors, cam or flywheel... crank the truck... if it starts, basically the plugged in sensor is good... then swap.... plug the sensor back in and unplug the other one, crank the truck... if it doesnt run..... the plugged in sensor has the issue... basic shade tree way to check... Ive done this many times..... no laptop needed.... jojo 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 ok, I'm not trying to build a mountain out of a molehill here, but if you have a concern about the ring gear, you may need to pull #1 injector and dial indicate TDC, then look at the flywheel through the small inspection cover to see if it is at "0" . I just set the engine to #1 first, then back it up a bit and then come forward to check this... I can only remember a couple of times where the ring gear was out of 'time' jojo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 Haha no offense taken, I honestly thought it was one turn but I couldn’t remember. Now I def know…. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 this idea I have may only prove flywheel orientation if it is not machined correctly. if you pull the rpm/tdc sensor out of the fly wheel housing there should be 2 trimmed flywheel teeth there, in the hole. I hope I recall this correctly? it's been a long time.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 Thats right Joey 1 Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moparmike Posted January 20 Author Share Posted January 20 no real concern of the flywheel what's just told it could be the issue so where do I start I pulled the bell housing sensor and it would run but I replaced it with new from mack anyway then pulled cam sensor no start at all and thanks guys I really appreciate your help I really need this truck fixed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moparmike Posted January 20 Author Share Posted January 20 also the flywheel was purchased new not resurface buy not from mack from another parts supplier mack had a long wait time this is my only truck income right now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 (edited) 2 hours ago, Moparmike said: no real concern of the flywheel what's just told it could be the issue so where do I start I pulled the bell housing sensor and it would run but I replaced it with new from mack anyway then pulled cam sensor no start at all and thanks guys I really appreciate your help I really need this truck fixed Mike is the tach showing RPM? Just wonder if your chasing the wrong thing here Fuel transfer pump comes to mind! just saying! Edited January 20 by fjh 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
br549 Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 Is this engine a E-tech or a E7 older, The E7 uses the screw in sensor at the front of the flywheel housing, the E-Tech engine uses the sensor that push in from the side and a little bolt to hold it in. There is a difference in the flywheels. The E-Tech has one tooth on the flywheel that has been cut off. The older E7 has 6 holes on the front side to line up with the sensor. Make sure you got the right flywheel. Also did the crankshaft have a dowel pin in it, If not it could be installed in the wrong place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 with the cam sensor out and flywheel sensor in, the engine does not start... I would look at the wires to the flywheel sensor, follow it as far as you can and gently tug the wire, hope fully it will break somewhere easy to reach and you can solder it back together. also, the plug on the truck side could be dirty, and/or have bad pins in it. it is close to the ground and gets stuff slung onto it from the steer tire, plus whatever the engine leaks out gets on it too... Lot's of great info in this thread... I'm sure the answer is already posted. let us know.. jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 3 hours ago, br549 said: Is this engine a E-tech or a E7 older, The E7 uses the screw in sensor at the front of the flywheel housing, the E-Tech engine uses the sensor that push in from the side and a little bolt to hold it in. There is a difference in the flywheels. The E-Tech has one tooth on the flywheel that has been cut off. The older E7 has 6 holes on the front side to line up with the sensor. Make sure you got the right flywheel. Also did the crankshaft have a dowel pin in it, If not it could be installed in the wrong place. If the flywheel he used is a aftermarket it may be like one i used and it is made for both engines.It has the missing tooth and the six little slots in the flywheel and which a portion of the slot goes over into the ring gear.I had a ring gear slip about 1/2 inch on my E7. Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moparmike Posted January 20 Author Share Posted January 20 4 hours ago, fjh said: Mike is the tach showing RPM? Just wonder if your chasing the wrong thing here Fuel transfer pump comes to mind! just saying! yes tech and mph works speedometer and hr meter does not work it stopped a while back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moparmike Posted January 20 Author Share Posted January 20 3 hours ago, br549 said: Is this engine a E-tech or a E7 older, The E7 uses the screw in sensor at the front of the flywheel housing, the E-Tech engine uses the sensor that push in from the side and a little bolt to hold it in. There is a difference in the flywheels. The E-Tech has one tooth on the flywheel that has been cut off. The older E7 has 6 holes on the front side to line up with the sensor. Make sure you got the right flywheel. Also did the crankshaft have a dowel pin in it, If not it could be installed in the wrong place. e tech I believe it's computer control it has the sensor in the side of the bell not front I had a shop replace the clutch and flywheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moparmike Posted January 20 Author Share Posted January 20 44 minutes ago, Joey Mack said: with the cam sensor out and flywheel sensor in, the engine does not start... I would look at the wires to the flywheel sensor, follow it as far as you can and gently tug the wire, hope fully it will break somewhere easy to reach and you can solder it back together. also, the plug on the truck side could be dirty, and/or have bad pins in it. it is close to the ground and gets stuff slung onto it from the steer tire, plus whatever the engine leaks out gets on it too... Lot's of great info in this thread... I'm sure the answer is already posted. let us know.. jojo I'll check that this week it runs with the sensor out unplugged at bell housing I hadn't thought of a bad wire or plug I did spray the plug with brake kleen to clean it out when I installed the new sensor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moparmike Posted January 20 Author Share Posted January 20 14 minutes ago, theakerstwo said: If the flywheel he used is a aftermarket it may be like one i used and it is made for both engines.It has the missing tooth and the six little slots in the flywheel and which a portion of the slot goes over into the ring gear.I had a ring gear slip about 1/2 inch on my E7. I'm kot sure but it ran fine for a few weeks after it was installed they could have damaged the wire installing the new stuff they removed the fuel tank and everything on driverside Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
67RModel Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 I see you are in NC but not sure where in the state. JoeyMack has a shop and a service truck in NC. He has been responding to this thread. If you are close to him he may be able to come to you if you cant get it sorted out. Just a thought... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 I'm in Salisbury.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 I believe this guy was looking for something like that in the past and said he would pay good money/travel for good service. Something along those lines…. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark T Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 P A I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moparmike Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 19 hours ago, Joey Mack said: I'm in Salisbury.. I really need to get it out to you I'm outs Raleigh not far from you great service is always worth the ride if you don't mind send me your contact information 🙂 thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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