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RobM626

Vibration that 2 mechanics and Mack dealer can’t figure out

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53 minutes ago, fjh said:

HA you think you got problems now! Good luck with your new acquisition don't get rid of your old one the vibration issue will be a non issue comparatively speaking! IMO! of coase!

Lol I know.. this truck is actually an 08 granite with an mp7. The mileage is reallllyy low. Only 50,000 miles . 

It’s a volumetric concrete mixer . I some some threads about doing a delete I was looking into otrperformace . Maybe that will alleviate some future headaches

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On 3/28/2018 at 7:11 AM, RobM626 said:

The chop starts around 900 when descending. And smoothed out once it returns to idle . The vibration I have is throughout the rpm range I feel it the most around 1000-1100. It’s like a pulse. You can hear/feel it traveling through the transmission too. It’s like Like a wobble . The dash does not shake as bad as it used to since I changed pto, but the mirrors are hard to see clearly out of because of the vibration.

the truck does have 30,509 hours . Without a doubt that truck worked. But like I said before, the way it’s behaving isn’t normal. I know things get old and can’t be New forever. But having to replace the clutch so many times I’m such a short time and basically everything else connected in that area. Something just isn’t right down there. I’m determined to get to the bottom of it.

After you guys asked me those questions if I was sure it wasn’t normal harmonics I got In a few other RD’s that are similar age and not nearly in the condition of mine and they don’t sound and feel like mine does. That truck used to be a pleasure to drive. Now I get out at the end of the day and I need a bottle of Advil from my head pulsating lol

when was the last time you looked at the motor mount pads  30.000 hrs`they could be getting thin` steel to steel will cause all sorts of problems

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2 hours ago, carlotpilot said:

when was the last time you looked at the motor mount pads  30.000 hrs`they could be getting thin` steel to steel will cause all sorts of problems

They’re new. Maybe 9 months old. 

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3 hours ago, RobM626 said:

They’re new. Maybe 9 months old. 

just a thought

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On 4/11/2018 at 12:10 PM, fjh said:

HA you think you got problems now! Good luck with your new acquisition don't get rid of your old one the vibration issue will be a non issue comparatively speaking! IMO! of coase!

Andddd it begins! Fuel primer was had a leak so they replaced it and it’s still losing prime. Now they’re saying I need injector cups and injectors. They also found an air leak that they fixed for a grand total of 7,000. And I didn’t even register the truck yet. I hope these repairs will solve the problem and the truck can get to work and make some money.

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2 hours ago, hurstscrambler said:

That sucks to hear, do you have any recourse with whoever you purchased the truck from?  Andy

I’m in the process of trying to work something out. The guy “assured”us the truck was in  “perfect” condition. We’ll see what happens. I hope he’s a stand up guy. And I hope this mack dealer is better than my local dealer at diagnosing and doing repairs.

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13 hours ago, RobM626 said:

I’m in the process of trying to work something out. The guy “assured”us the truck was in  “perfect” condition. We’ll see what happens. I hope he’s a stand up guy. And I hope this mack dealer is better than my local dealer at diagnosing and doing repairs.

We will see how that goes! 

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Was it Susquehanna Motors?    I'm guessing they are about 60 miles east of Lamar.  Company I worked for bought a bunch of trucks "Macks" and trailers "greatdane" from them over the years.   

Edited by Hobert62

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Unfortunately if the injector cup issue is an on going thing and has been for years  on all HP ratings of these engines up to this last   ear the change to common rail  seems to have changed things  (HOWEVER ) the jury is still out on these.  so far do good. in our area for the common rail ,WE Will SEE!  I am not holding my breath!.

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10 hours ago, Hobert62 said:

Was it Susquehanna Motors?    I'm guessing they are about 60 miles east of Lamar.  Company I worked for bought a bunch of trucks "Macks" and trailers "greatdane" from them over the years.   

The truck is at legacy mack getting the work done

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9 hours ago, fjh said:

Unfortunately if the injector cup issue is an on going thing and has been for years  on all HP ratings of these engines up to this last   ear the change to common rail  seems to have changed things  (HOWEVER ) the jury is still out on these.  so far do good. in our area for the common rail ,WE Will SEE!  I am not holding my breath!.

I heard the same . They just changed to common rail last year?

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On April 11, 2018 at 9:54 AM, RobM626 said:

I change the air filter every oil change which is about every 300-400 hours. It’s usually every 3 months. Every time I change them they’re always pretty clean but I do it anyway.the compressor however is original on the truck so I’m gonna just change it. 

Your wasting your time and money,don't change the air filter until the restriction gage is in the red..

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48 minutes ago, MACKS said:

Your wasting your time and money,don't change the air filter until the restriction gage is in the red..

The restriction gauge stopped working years ago. I guess I can replace it but I figured the truck is constantly in dirty/dusty environments so might as well take a little extra precaution on preventative maintenance 

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20 hours ago, RobM626 said:

The restriction gauge stopped working years ago. I guess I can replace it but I figured the truck is constantly in dirty/dusty environments so might as well take a little extra precaution on preventative maintenance 

According to Mack you do more harm then good by un necessary air filter changes,just passing it along..

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That’s the first for me on more harm than good on an air filter change

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Looks like they would make the filter as they wanted it instead of relying on you to get it dirty. Some trucks don’t run in dusty environments 

im not doubting anybody; but sure sounds crazy

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48 minutes ago, 1965 said:

Looks like they would make the filter as they wanted it instead of relying on you to get it dirty. Some trucks don’t run in dusty environments 

im not doubting anybody; but sure sounds crazy

With dry filter elements no matter the media, engineering data supports the aged filter better at filtration than a new one as referenced. It's why an oiled prefilter is installed onto small engines which operate in usually extreme dusty conditions. I'm citing your power lawn mower for instance. You can do the same on a dump truck but the service interval would be short.

Definitely get a filter restriction gauge installed. This is a cheap representation of a "manometer" as all filters are rated at a certain restriction level, (resistance to free airflow) to be considered "plugged", or needing replaced.  

Edited by Rob

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25 minutes ago, 1965 said:

Looks like they would make the filter as they wanted it instead of relying on you to get it dirty. Some trucks don’t run in dusty environments 

im not doubting anybody; but sure sounds crazy

It is just a fact of life...as a filter plugs it becomes more efficient.

I am not saying a new/clean filter is harmful.  You can change it more often and incur added maintenance expense or use the restriction indicator to let you know when to change the air filer thus optimizing filter life and reducing maintenance cost.

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I guess it makes sense... the filters definately aren’t cheap. I’ll extend the intervals longer. mack really knows what they’re doing when it comes to those stupid plastic nuts that hold the top of the air cleaner closed on the RD.. I must have to replace those nuts like twice a year. That adds like another $120 to the maintenance cost lol

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7 minutes ago, RobM626 said:

I guess it makes sense... the filters definately aren’t cheap. I’ll extend the intervals longer. mack really knows what they’re doing when it comes to those stupid plastic nuts that hold the top of the air cleaner closed on the RD.. I must have to replace those nuts like twice a year. That adds like another $120 to the maintenance cost lol

Replace them one time with these be done with it. Coat the threads with some type of coating, (Vaseline works well) before you install the nuts. Those are a Donaldson thing, not Mack. Yes, the plastic likes to either twist the nut out, or fracture. The older ones were metal.

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/#=1cfh8zs

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1 hour ago, Rob said:

Replace them one time with these be done with it. Coat the threads with some type of coating, (Vaseline works well) before you install the nuts. Those are a Donaldson thing, not Mack. Yes, the plastic likes to either twist the nut out, or fracture. The older ones were metal.

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/#=1cfh8zs

The link brings me to a main page. Which nut should I search for to use for replacement of the plastic nuts?

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On 4/11/2018 at 8:58 AM, RobM626 said:

I know right . I’m hoping I’m getting somewhere with fixing this thing. I’m still going back and forth with the shop about the clutch flywheel issue. I really feel like they’re trying to cover something up and don’t wanna drop the tranny again .

I just ordered another truck for a different business venture and on the way to New York from Iowa the truck broke down in Pennsylvania. I didn’t even get the truck yet and it’s giving me problems already!!!! I can only imagine the grief that one will cause me!

Whadja get? 

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6 minutes ago, RobM626 said:

The link brings me to a main page. Which nut should I search for to use for replacement of the plastic nuts?

Sorry about that. Try this. Look for high stainless cap nuts in your proper thread size.

See if this one will take you there: https://www.mcmaster.com/#cap-nuts/=1cfi6m6

If not, try this one:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#cap-nuts/=1cfi5z2

Edited by Rob

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