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Splindle cleaning


Coenut

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I'm not an expert but we use scotch brite pads to scuff up paint before respraying. Doesn't really do any damage to a painted surface, so I would of thought a metal surface would of been even less risk. 

Just my thoughts. 

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If you mean you need to remove some caked on grease then pads or emery will work fine, but if you are trying to remove the ring cut into the seal surface than I don't think it will work. If the surface is cut you can either try to re-position the seal a little by not seating it as much or you can get a sleeve to slide over the hub that will provide a new sealing surface.

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

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Those are called "Speedi-Sleeves" for use when there is a wear groove into the sealing surface. Ensure you get the correct seal for this usage as there are times undersize seals for these. I use crocus cloth myself to clean up most sealing surfaces as it doesn't scratch other than in the micron range.

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Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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There was a wear grove in the ring so I removed the ring.  I don't have the tool to place that ring precisely back on so I went with a non grit guard seal.  I have all hubs off to check the bearings and races so I figured I may as well clean everything up and replace the seals.  The surfaces just need a touch up.

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2 minutes ago, Coenut said:

There was a wear grove in the ring so I removed the ring.  I don't have the tool to place that ring precisely back on so I went with a non grit guard seal.  I have all hubs off to check the bearings and races so I figured I may as well clean everything up and replace the seals.  The surfaces just need a touch up.

I'm not familiar with a tool needed to reinstall the sealing ring. It should have an "O" ring on it's inner surface which bears against the spindle and most have a roll pin which engages into a hole in the spindle to keep the sealing ring from spinning from seal drag. Some of the sealing rings from OEM were a press fit and the roll pin was not there but one would bore a small hole into the area where the sealing ring abuts and the replacement seal ring would slide right on.

Some factory installations had a "Speedi-Sleeve" installed already. Those you just tap into place with a block of wood being easy to not distort it as you drive it onto the sealing ring. A little here, a little there, and they usually just walk right on.

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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17 minutes ago, Coenut said:

The steer axle has the ring with a roll pin. The drives don't.

Yes, that was common. If you removed the "Speedi-Sleeve" from the drives they could, or could not be factory supplied when new. Replacements should be readily available. There is a tool recommended for their installation but I've never had one myself. Have always used a block of wood, (usually oak) and drove the sleeve on slowly and evenly. Put a thin layer of grease on the seal riding surface before sliding the hub into position so you don't burn the seal lips up during initial start up.

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Stemco makes a seal with a metal wear ring included, for most applications. This gives you a new wear surface every time you replace the seal. The sleeve is installed at the same time as the seal, with the seal installation tool. Saved me many times with a worn spindle when no other seal would work.

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They are very convenient. The tool I don't have looks like an old metal style thermos and it has interchangeable heads. Thankfully spindles are good.  Just curious but when is the next work day at the museum? 

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can you not get a "mechanics" style seal for that axle ? as Underdog said a stemco style seal will eliminate the worry of having a lip seal, seal on a worn surface 

a cr scott seal or mechanics seal would also fix the issue as long as the seal surface is still smooth, a wear strip in the middle should not affect them as they are multi ribbed on the inner bore. and should be able to bridge the area of concern

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Everything on the axles cleaned up very nicely.  Little elbow grease with some emery and wd40. Used scott seals found them dirt cheap brand new on eBay.  Next is a brake job, then wheels and tires.

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Everything on the axles cleaned up very nicely.  Little elbow grease with some emery and wd40. Used scott seals found them dirt cheap brand new on eBay.  Next is a brake job, then wheels and tires.

Doing the same on my MH, likely will pull the drive hubs apart this weekend. I've been using CR seals for years, with good results. Best for a shade tree mechanic such as me, because no special tools required.
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On 2/2/2017 at 7:30 PM, gearhead204 said:

can you not get a "mechanics" style seal for that axle ? as Underdog said a stemco style seal will eliminate the worry of having a lip seal, seal on a worn surface 

a cr scott seal or mechanics seal would also fix the issue as long as the seal surface is still smooth, a wear strip in the middle should not affect them as they are multi ribbed on the inner bore. and should be able to bridge the area of concern

I've used them. The seal actually spins inside itself instead of on the spindle. You can even put something like rtv on the spindle to help seal a less than perfect surface. You can also pretty much install them by hand, without having to drive them.

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