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questions about an older trixale lowboy trailer


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I stumbled across a decent solid tri axle low boy rear load with ramps. The trailer has a 20 foot deck and 20 foot over the wheels and a short dovetail with flip over ramps. Has 8.25 x 15 tube type Dayton style tires. Probably next week going to go get it, it is in afield and really wet with the snow melt.

Has anyone changed the hubs to 22.5 stud or budds? I looked up diameters and seems like the 22.5 low pros are about .5 to 1 inch larger than the 15 unless I am not looking at it right. I thought about 17.5 but then have to buy new rims and tires so I figured if I went with 22.5 would be less expensive for tires as I know I can get decent used low profiles, vs new rims and new tires.

I did check on 15s and my tire shop can still get them just don't stock, I can buy them new mounted for $177 the same as the 17.5 both 16 ply. I don't plan on hauling a D-9 with it so the 16 ply will be fine. I do plan on adding a 12k winch and boxing in over the wheels.

Any opinions

Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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I would consider a axle swap most of those 15" wheels had 5 or 6 lug wheels with inboard brakes so with a hub swap I think you would spend more than just hitting the wrecking yard and getting complete axles. a lot of those old axles are getting tough to find brake parts for

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  • 4 weeks later...

Looked into doing the same thing on an old Phalen rear load we had. Turned out to be pretty pricey to swap over the hubs, brakes, and used 22.5 wheels. Just ended up buying a lot of 10 15-8.25s off ebay. Had two extras left over, but sure saved a lot of money!

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I think that is what I am going to do with the tires and collect some 17.5s. I checked with a trailer place they are supposed to come and give me an estimate on re arch, its not bad for what I need but if I can get it re arched for a couple thousand may go ahead and do it, it may increase the resale value to. :idunno:

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Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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I think that is what I am going to do with the tires and collect some 17.5s. I checked with a trailer place they are supposed to come and give me an estimate on re arch, its not bad for what I need but if I can get it re arched for a couple thousand may go ahead and do it, it may increase the resale value to. :idunno:

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mate I dunno what the problem is the arch is going the right way from this side of the world :banana::banana::banana:

what you need is a bigger float sorry LOWBOY back it up on some chains great big strong ones blocks of wood and a few 20 ton jacks steady steady you will have curved the right way in a day or so and all you will have spent is some time :thumb:

Paul

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mate I dunno what the problem is the arch is going the right way from this side of the world :banana::banana::banana:

what you need is a bigger float sorry LOWBOY back it up on some chains great big strong ones blocks of wood and a few 20 ton jacks steady steady you will have curved the right way in a day or so and all you will have spent is some time :thumb:

Paul

and do that on the hottest day of summer let it set like that for a week or more in the sun

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M80

Noice look n R model

.

Unless U gunna use it all day every day U might find it cheaper to stik with the wheeled part U got already on D Loboy

8.25R15 tubed or 9.5R17.5 tubeless R the same dia of 33" (give or take a poofteenth or 2)

1000x20 tubed or 11R22.5 tubless R the same dia of 40" (give or take a poofteenth or 2)

Dayton wheels R more reliable & 4 giving if U happen to get loose wheel nuts .... worst scenario U may have to increase the width of the wheel spacer

With Budd Wheels if U run loose wheel nuts u flog the wheel mounting holes = Chuk away

we run Daytons on everthing and would never ever consider run n Budd in heavy haul n ruff conditions

ifn U gunna run a winch on the Low boy I suggest U extend the skid plate out the front & make it user friendly n HD mount the winch to pull into the gooseneck main beams

as low as possible ontop of skid plate with the mountings pull n into neck

B good to hear of the outcum

cya

§wishy

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some i have all with air 17.5

If you were only 2000 miles closer!

mate I dunno what the problem is the arch is going the right way from this side of the world :banana::banana::banana:

what you need is a bigger float sorry LOWBOY back it up on some chains great big strong ones blocks of wood and a few 20 ton jacks steady steady you will have curved the right way in a day or so and all you will have spent is some time :thumb:

Paul

I wish I knew someone that had one I would give that a try. The trailer repair place has some sort anchors buried in concrete and several different rams up to 200K like a portable press, said that it would take about a day and then a day inspecting and welding up any cracks and installing and welding straps to keep it from sagging again.

Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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Easy n cheapest way to get the negative camber out of deck n make it a bit positive camber

Iz turn turtle on its back, inspect n 'V' out any cracks

grab a 30 ton excavator build a bank of dirt about 3 feet away from side of trailer (so U can play wiff Hyd Jack)

place a good quality jack under deck one on each side of main frame about where the bend is the worst

gradually walk the excavator across the deck from the bank using the bucket to support from the far side

lift bucket n position the excavator midships

n gradually let down jacks to make it a slightly positive camber wen dun

wen u take excavator off deck it may spring back so do the above again n allow for more positive camber

n wen happy weld up n reinforce with steel plate @ weakest point

There

Jobz dun

LOL

cya

§wishy

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I've got a trailer with a few bends in it. A local guy suggested heating and shrinking the metal. Not something I know much about, but it sounds about right. I know when ever you bend metal in a bender your actually stretching one side.

Lot of smart people in the world so I'm certain it can be done.

P.S. It looks at home behind your bulldog Mack!

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I've got a trailer with a few bends in it. A local guy suggested heating and shrinking the metal. Not something I know much about, but it sounds about right. I know when ever you bend metal in a bender your actually stretching one side.

Lot of smart people in the world so I'm certain it can be done.

P.S. It looks at home behind your bulldog Mack!

Thanks, Its gonna have to look good behind my Superliner for now a guy from Ohio bought my R yesterday, he came to look at the B but thought it would be to much to drive for his dad so he offered to buy the R and he drove it back to Ohio.

Here are a few more pictures was able to mess with it some more yesterday afternoon. Fixed the landing gear just need to figure out what I am going to do about the cap. Looks like all new brakes and stuff a couple of new slack adjusters also. But will need a little work on the front axle hanger mount.

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Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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That is what I am hoping, just heard back from Jim Hawk Trailers today and the service manager is going to come look at it next week and give me an estimate. I am going to have them fix all the structural stuff the sand blasting, wiring and service I am going to do. I suppose I could do the hangers and may depending on the price but if they do it, I would think it might be faster since they do that stuff every day.

Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The Service Manager stopped by yesterday and quoted me for repair. It was in my budget and he said it was worth saving and not really that bad so I spent some of today preparing the old girl to take over. I added some temporary lights to the back and welded on some angle to support them. Adjusted the slack adjusters that were hooked up and added a tire to the way back singled out axle, aired up the tires and and will see which ones still got some in the morning.

They are going to put on the frame machine and use anchors and rams and heat and bend it back into shape, fix the axle mounts and fix a couple cracks and welds.

Today while messing with the brakes and tires I pulled and checked the wheels all seem like they should, new brakes and hardware, I think I will replace the slack adjusters as the locks were sticking and I had to heat with a propane torch until they oozed some hard packed grease out and half way loosened enough so I could pull the lock all the way up also since it doesn't have spring brakes I think I will put on at least one axle.

In the last picture you can see four red spots that are marked for repair

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Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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have you thought about using heavy wall 2" square tube 12" on center on the goose neck to give you an upper deck? the 2" tube gives you clearance underneath to build a rack for ramps and it won't hit your drives. You can "edge" it with 6" channel . Doing that gives you room for a golf cart or your 60 parked up there and leaves your deck for a truck.

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the main deck if I cover the wheels is just over 38 ft so that should be long enough, I was going to add a tool box and spare tires on top of the gooseneck. If I run out of room I may look at your idea. Went by and dropped off the tire that was missing and took some pictures.

The trailer is chained in the rear to the floor and they were heating it with a rosebud torch. They were letting it cool than going to re-hook it.

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Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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