hatcity Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 The 5thwheel should have a ramp . You want to at least be just above the ramp low point.As you back in, the ramp will lift trailer, fifth wheel will flatten and continue until you hit, You will know when you get thereBack up to your trailer, real close. Get out and take a look to be sure you are high enough. If not, raise it up a few cranks. Quote Success is only a stones throw away.................................................................for a Palestinian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
other dog Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 Lots of uses for the pads! not an ex-mover alive worth his weight that has'nt spent the night on a stack of pads! great to lay on when working on the truck,make a good fender cover,damn good blanket when the heater quits! as far as the door,consult your local Great dane dealer,they can be ordered (a lot of the Nascar trailers have them) and its a relatively easy job,company i'm leased to has a trailer with a "people" door on the curbside,its used to access show merchandise in the nose of the trailer,i have i picture of me hooked to it,but its the wrong side to see the door!..............................................MarkLot of flatbedders use them too, to put over sharp edges under their tarps to keep from cutting the tarp. Quote Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
other dog Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 Exactly, just like Jim said!RonExactly, just like Jim and Ron said! We've got a 55 gallon drum of 5th. wheel grease at the shop with a board in it to slather it on the 5th. wheel with. You don't need high dollar or special grease for the 5th. wheel, pretty much any old grease will do.I don't drop and hook much so I carry some tubes of grease with me and sometimes i'll drop the trailer, pull out, then pop the tops on the tube of grease and just tap the metal end on the 5th. wheel. Put little globs of grease all over until the tubes empty. Then when I back under the trailer i'll lower my air bags so the front of the trailer doesn't wipe the grease off. Then when the king pin is right at the back of the 5th. wheel i'll pump the bags back up and then hook-up. If you don't have air ride you can just raise and lower the trailer to do the same thing. You have to get out and look when you do this of course, to make sure you don't back in too far before you raise it back up, but it's about the best way to cover it good with grease and not make a big mess . They'll service a truck at the shop, grease the 5th. wheel, and if they hook it back up to your trailer for you when they finish more often than not all the grease they just put on the 5th. wheel will be all over the frame, catwalk, tires, driveshaft, bumper, hood, stacks, steering wheel... Quote Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brocky Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 Also the oppisite of what Hat City said. If the trailer is TOO HIGH you will have to crank it down till it touches the fifth wheel.. If not the trailer pin will slide all the way over and past the fifth wheel, and if you go too far the glad hands will be in the back of the cab. Then you have fun getting it back over ther 5th wheel.Brocky Quote Brocky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vision386 Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 How high should the front of the trailer be in relation to the fifth wheel? In other words when backing under the trailer, where should the front of the trailer make initial contact with the fifth wheel? Thanks again for all the instructions.Ken,when you back up to the trailer for the first time,the trailer should be high enough to cover about half of the fifth wheel before it flattens out,and you continue backing under it,get out and check several times if needed,once you do it a few times you'll get a "feel' for it.As i already said,its very important to make sure their is no vertical gap between the trailer and fifth wheel,if so,re-drop,lower trailer and try again. Failure to do so could cause the trailer to come un-hooked and you don't want that!................Mark Quote Mack Truck literate. Computer illiterate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHfred Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 If you drive a Detroit, do you still have to grease the fifth wheel? Just kidding-love that sound!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 Ken, Have you considered installing the door in the front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1958 F.W.D. Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 Ken- I used to do trailer body work when I worked at Jevic at the Willingboro Fleet Maintenance Shop. One thing you do NOT want to do is let a place not familiar with how trailers are built to install the door for you. If they cut the wrong rail in the wrong spot in the wrong manner, it could lead to bad things. As others have suggested, I would let a trailer shop install the door for you, NOT an RV place. It's been over 10 years since I have done any trailer sheet metal work and I don't have a heavy compressor (or my air tools) anymore or else I'd offer to install it for you after Macungie. 1 Quote TWO STROKES ARE FOR GARDEN TOOLS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmer52 Posted May 5, 2013 Author Share Posted May 5, 2013 Thanks again everyone for all the trailer hookup instructions and grease info. I think I am ready to give it a try.David - a door in the front would be a good idea. Then I would not need stairs or ladder. Quote Ken PRR Country and Charter member of the "Mack Pack" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 Do you have room between the drive tires and fuel tank to install steps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 I just wonder if you really need help then I'm sure we could get the Winfall girls to come by your place to give you instructions.Regardsmike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmer52 Posted May 5, 2013 Author Share Posted May 5, 2013 I just wonder if you really need help then I'm sure we could get the Winfall girls to come by your place to give you instructions.RegardsmikeSomehow I don't think the instructions would be concerning trailer hookup...perhaps another hookup instead. Quote Ken PRR Country and Charter member of the "Mack Pack" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1958 F.W.D. Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 Ken I have seen many folks with a door directly in the front. It's kind of like installing a door or window in your house, just double up the studs on each side of the door because you'll be deleting one or two pins for the opening, and then install a doubled cross member over the door itself. If whoever does it right they will rivet it all with traditional smash rivets for maximum durability. Quote TWO STROKES ARE FOR GARDEN TOOLS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmer52 Posted May 5, 2013 Author Share Posted May 5, 2013 Do you have room between the drive tires and fuel tank to install steps?Yes, what do you have in mind? Quote Ken PRR Country and Charter member of the "Mack Pack" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 When driving home from work, there is this old 50's trailer that already has a single door cut into the side. Mid-Tenn Salvage. I don't know if it is a single or tandem setup. I cannot catch them open.mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vision386 Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 Ken, the most common place i've seen a door installed on a trailer like yours is in the curbside,just behind the "drop",that way you can also install a set of folding steps like on a camper....................................Mark Quote Mack Truck literate. Computer illiterate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vision386 Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 Heres the trailer i mentioned before,just can't see the door as its on the other side,i thought i had i picture,but can't seem to locate it!.......................................Mark Quote Mack Truck literate. Computer illiterate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmer52 Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 Heres the trailer i mentioned before,just can't see the door as its on the other side,i thought i had i picture,but can't seem to locate it!.......................................MarkNice lookin Mack. 1 Quote Ken PRR Country and Charter member of the "Mack Pack" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Yes, what do you have in mind?The glad hands on your trailer are on the drivers side as are the hoses on a MH. Install the door front and center. Add a deck plate, steps and handrail to the passenger side of the truck. You keep the trailer side smooth, don't violate the integrity of the bottom rail, and you don't have to crawl over the fender of what ever your hauling. When you upgrade to a conventional daycab you can go from the truck straight to the trailer. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Mark I see a side door. It is on the driver side. (On theMack)not the trailer.mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmer52 Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 The glad hands on your trailer are on the drivers side as are the hoses on a MH. Install the door front and center. Add a deck plate, steps and handrail to the passenger side of the truck. You keep the trailer side smooth, don't violate the integrity of the bottom rail, and you don't have to crawl over the fender of what ever your hauling. When you upgrade to a conventional daycab you can go from the truck straight to the trailer. LOLDavid - good point about the lines. I will have to look at the right side. The MH has dual tanks and I was thinking about removing the right tank and installing a step toolbox. Someone suggested I keep the tank. If I keep the tank, I could install steps like the left side. I already have a deck plate and I think I saw a handrail attachment. Good suggestions....nice of you to spend my money! Quote Ken PRR Country and Charter member of the "Mack Pack" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHfred Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Wouldn't a side door decrease the chances of rain getting into the trailer? If it is in the front the wind will tend to force the water into any crevice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vision386 Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Mark I see a side door. It is on the driver side. (On theMack)not the trailer.mikeOnly problem is,that door is very seldom used when i'm on the inside!.........................................Mark Quote Mack Truck literate. Computer illiterate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmer52 Posted May 7, 2013 Author Share Posted May 7, 2013 Received an email from ODFL...trailer is in Indy and should be in Altoona Thursday or Friday. I may swing by and take some pics this weekend. Need to get my ass butt in gear and get the MH ready to roll next week. I just hope the air lines and cable on my MH are okay. Stopping by Watt's on Wednesday and getting new gladhand seals. Received the title and inspection papers today (Tuesday). Quote Ken PRR Country and Charter member of the "Mack Pack" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveigou Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 Hey KenJust a little reminder when you unhook, assuming your MH is air ride, drop the air out of the suspension (if you want to keep your rear crossmember straight). When you crank the landing gear down on the trailer, keep it about an inch off the ground, and just before you pull out, dump the air on the rear suspension, and pull out real easy. Quote See my Flickr photostream page http://www.flickr.com/photos/96692978@N05/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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