Vladislav

As said above. Interesting, From the other side of the globe. Vlad

You nailed that Alex! I must have a group photo where I was dressed in the T-shirt. But it was printed on paper and the closest place I remember seeing it last time was on a wall in my friend's apartment in Dusseldorf Germany

I also remember those iron transferred T-shorts. But here they showed up later, actually in late 80's when Perestroyka took its time and new public oriented technologies flooded the empty market. Personally i don't remember the transfers you could buy. Usually it was a shop you choose a pic and get it on a white T-short. Definitely none of Mack pics ever showed up so i had to satisfy myself with DB5 Aston Martin print.

With that much of damage to the wheels the axles must get some real cattywampus.

Looking the photo it seems like you definitely should.

Going to collect a few key parts for one more project. Might be too early regarding the state of my current affairs but it seems like importing gets more difficult. So I'd like to do it while it's still possible. So looking for a complete 1985-1993 Mack RW Superliner II engine hood. In reasonable (fixable) condition together with top bezel and grill. Something like on the picture. Also of interest to the front hood mount that attaches it to chassis and a pair of front cab mounts. Would need all that transported to New Brunswick NJ some way or another. Vlad

Makes me think that guy met 3 signs that day following each other.

Congrats on the run to fun!

Yes, that's right. Volga GAZ-21 (the plant Henry Ford built in 30's in the city of Gorky) was produced in USSR from 1956 to 1970. Currently it's the most popular classic car in Russia. Something like B-61 corresponding to the Mack world

The car is the old Volga car. But the matter of the point was not the car but the country of origin of the main subject of the picture Worth to note it looks to me as a bit of tuning was done to.

What your pumper is must be the same chassis as a commercial E-model of a certain load capacity. Something like EF or EH. Narrowing down this point would allow you to increase the field of parts search. Steering wheels for old trucks are usually a trouble to find. Also they could vary about the mounting hole style. Key slot, splines, different ID etc. So if you expect to have any luck locating the stuff better post as many pictures and detailed descriptions as possible. Vlad

I saw cases (and even probably used that trick myself) when you need to install a rim or wheel to just fit the resting one correctly. For example if the wheel studs don't have threads long enough to tight nuts against the single wheels you would have to install an empty wheel just as a spicer.

Does anybody know which model of car this girl seats in?

On the picture above i think the tyres we so really bad it wasn't a trouble to remove the restovers from the wheels. After that having the inners Ok the driver continued the journey. Strange we see no damage to the fender. But if the rubbers stayed in circles they wouldn't catch it.

Buying a truck is always an exciting action, especially a nice and long planned one. Even if it has old tyres and needs paint. So missing the chance makes dissapointment. On the other hand there are so many trucks for sale every day and every night so need for a hurry. You can always prolong the enjoy choosing one or another. Thanks for the pictures Tom. P.S. That R-model in Ohio looked neat indeed.

The width between the frame rails depend upon a chassis model. I.e. R-model has one distance and MH or RW another. So answering your question is impossibly not knowing the truck's model. Also a point the basic distance between the rails at the rear is established by the bogie stand (for Camelbacks). For example a standart R-model has its stand with two steel stripes welded along each side and singe rails of 1/4" thick added to the sandwich gives you 33-1/4 overall width. If the rails are 3/8 for a RD-model you have 33-1/2 because their extra thickness goes to the outer sides. If you order double frame the inserts fit inside the main rails and those spoken stripes on the stand go away. So the width keep its original size. This approach allows you to count out the particular width for a truck with heavy rails (which supposed to be used with heavy rears you pointed out) if you know the width for basic rails of the model you deal with. Vlad

Being you I wouldn't get really bothered about photos with such attraction of girl's attention

I sign up the petition. Would like to see the folks back. Some suitable probation time or other limitations seem reasonable. Not ready to share my mind about Teamster since I never saw his (or her?) crytical activity in person. Both options to allow or block further make sence.

Don't you have the front engine mount attached onto the front cover cranck seal extension? My Lanova doesn't allow to install the mounting brace when the pulley is on.

Really interesting to see. And those "custom built" or hand built cabs are surprize to me. Probably make sence with low production and expensive equipped units. Many thanks for sharing that bra.

Excellent! Very impressive!

Could be a different port connection scheme or just a piston stuck in the replacement valve during the storage time. I'd start from studying the truck's air diargam to figure the way the lines should be connected to the valve. The most valves of the period are typical and too possibly could be swapped maybe reconnecting or blocking some of the ports.

Depending on what you relate it to