martinf

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About martinf

  • Rank
    Truck Nut

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    Male
  • Location
    Eastern washington state
  1. Thanks, guys. I'll check it out
  2. Hey all, woke up my mid seventies R six wheel logging truck after 6 years of sitting. Builds up pressure just fine, but when I press the brakes, a huge gush of air comes out the side of the treadle valve. I've not taken this valve out before, but it's coming out on the passenger side on a port of some King. Is that a exhaust vent? anyways, when I do that, the air cans nd brakes operate, but I lose way too much air. also, for reasons I haven't figured out, but I'm thinking are related, there's no air coming too my spring cans and when I operate the brake hand control unit, air dumps out of the treadle at that same port. ideas and suggestions sure appreciated! martin
  3. Yeah, that's about how I look!
  4. Thanks for the suggestions guys. For some reason I have no air coming back to the spring brakes...and when I press in the treadle, the a huge gush of air coming out of the treadle valve. This girl ran ok when I parked her 6 years ago. I don't have the time right now to problem solve...just neede to move her. So that's why I'll just do the caging bolts quick. If you have any ideas about the bigger issue tho, I'm all ears. thanks martin
  5. Having problems getting my spring brake cans aired up on my mid seventies R. I was going to put the bolt in and lock them so I could move it over to my shop (100 ft)...those bolts are missing on both cans! They're usually in that little holder on the can itself right? Anyways I've seen these things plenty of times, but I can't quite picture them enough to make them. How bout all thread with a pin welded across the top? Or is there a place I can buy them cheap and quick? Thanks for any advice. Martin
  6. I've got a mid seventies R model set up as a logging truck with a prentice knuckle boom loader that I've decided to sell if anybody is interested. I live in eastern Washington. martin but I'd never sell my B!
  7. Cleaning the lines is easy, but how would you go about cleaning the tanks. I've drained them but fresh diesel is not going to dissolve that molasses sludge. I hate take them off and get them steam cleaned and tho gasoline dissolves the sludge, I don't like the idea of any leftover gas being in the tank when I refuel. martin
  8. Well guess what came out of the supply line petcocks on both tanks? Molasses! I've never seen anything this bad before. A gallon of the blackest ooze you could ever imagine. i haven't run this truck in 8 years and it sat lots before that. And when I got her running and parked it at my digging site to load with rock, she sat pointed downhill. And that ooze was filling up other fuel line between the tanks and half way up the supply hose to the pump. Poor pump...no wonder it couldn't pull fuel. makes me want to paint my fuel tanks white so they don't become solar ovens in the summer sun all season year after year!
  9. Thanks guys. All good suggestions. Just woke up to find it snowing hard so my Macks gonna have to sit for a while til it melts. Sigh. martin
  10. Hey all, ive got a midsixties B75 with a thermodyne engine. I needed to use it but after sitting for half dozen years or so, it quit a minute or two after start up. Turns out the supply pump, APE, wasn't delivering fuel. ..and the hand primer wasn't pulling in fuel either. Turns out the pump cavity was empty and, after filling it with diesel (pulled off the primer body and lifted the check valve) I got the hand primer working and pushed fuel up into the injection pump and all was well. But...now after a couple of days it's doing it again.. Won't run and primer pump won't pull in fuel and push it over to the filter. I probably have hunky old fuel, don't you think? I'll empty the tanks and put in fresh diesel and flush the line up to the pump. Any other ideas? Also, are repair parts available for these little plunger pumps? Or even rebuilt units? thanks for any assistance. martin
  11. Just to give anyone who's interested an update... I put in a new governer and that solved the lack of air problem. Wow. I've never had it build up so much pressure so quickly! And it fixed my other problems with the leaky power cylinders, too (at least for a while). When there was only 30 psi, the cylinders leaked bad, but with strong pressure they don't. Well, and also I cleaned then up and got the rust out and put a shot of 5W in there like the book said. I guess I probably wouldn't have had to even take them off and apart, if it wasn't for the low air pressure making them leaky and me getting worried about them, but I guess it's a good thing I did because they really needed some maintainence. It'll be a good thing if I can get a few more years out of them as I've learned here how difficult it will be to replace them or create a work around. Thanks again, ~martin
  12. Alrighty, Well, looking in a another Mack manual, I see a picture of the roto chambers and then mine, which they call power cylinders. If I'm not able to get new rubber sealing lips for the pistons, I'll be changing over to the diaphram air brake service chambers on the front rear axle. Don't know about the fit issue, though, because the 24's need 7 1/2" dia. and my power cylinders are a bit over 6" dia. and not much more room to spare. Any ideas about how to accomodate the larger diameter chambers? And, if anybody's got the book handy, I'd appreciate a look-up for my axle ratings. The number on the housing is 1QFA5408P1. I'd imagine that they are 44,000's, though because HK Trucking identified them as such and, looking on my title, it shows gross weight of 44,000. By the way, Rob, this truck is a 1965. And, since you asked, I took a picture today of the rear spring cans. thanks for the assistance, I'm learning lots of this site. ~martin
  13. My furthest back axle has spring brake chambers on it, and I don't think I have a driveshaft brake. If I can ask yet another question...how do I tell if my rears are 38,000# or ? Here's a couple of pics, in case that'll help. Again, thanks, ~martin
  14. Yep, mine have the air inlet in the center back end and definately are not pancake diaphram, so I bet they are roto chambers. I looked for sources for new 24's and came up with this. I'm surprised how inexpensive these are...definately not worth re-building my roto chambers if I can substitute these. Would these do the trick? They are the right bolt size and bolt spacing. http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=8502&categoryID=471 Thanks again, Rob, for all your assistance. I'm learning as I go here! ~martin
  15. Yep, good point and I won't mess around with compromised brakes. How about my question about if my air chambers are the roto type you mentioned? WOuld like to know aboutthat. As I had mentioned, mine are the kind with a metal piston and a rubber sealing lip and a felt ring a bit lower on the piston side. Are these roto's or are rotochambers the kind with the rubber diaphram fully across the chamber? Boy, those seem like an improvement in terms of sealing reliability.... ~martin