Vladislav

Paul, I'm generally with you on your statement (and many on here know that) but you forget the guys in the US has SNOW on many roads at the moment! Speaking old tyres if I worry about them I'd just buy a new set at the place the truck is for sale and swap then in locally before the trip. No matter where to buy tyres if you lean toward having a new set anyway.

Your truth it is. I forgot about that shoulder. And any (good) work should be payed up. You could accept his offer but doubtly would be able to make another job done there. And sure it wouldn't be honest. I had experience reconditioning working surface on 16.5" brake drums for Mack spoke hubs. Had to drive to the opposite side of the city (nearly 40km of traffic) to a shop with a lathe big enough. Good thing I asked (twice) on accurate centering the drums in the chuck when spoke by phone with a manager. A guy in the shop put first drum on the lathe (by the outside of the jaws since the hole was really large) and was going to cut. I asked for a dial gauge... He showed out big surprize and after I said I was promized the check he went to a shelf and picked up a stand with a gauge. All in all it took him nearly 30 minutes to center up each drum and then nearly 10 minutes or so to cut. Slow revs indeed. So he spent nearly 3 hours cutting 4 drums. And that cost me crazy money. Something US $40 apiece that time

If you looked inside and saw the big gear with teeth unbroken I think the main check was Ok My curiosity usually leads me to count them teeth and count out the ratio. But not much need in that if thinking global...

Belated congrats, Paul

My understanding is those shields were important when seals were not efficient enough. My 1945 Mack truck had hub seals made of leather. Modern stuff wouldn't allow any greas to go out if all was centered well during machining so my guess you will be Ok with what you've done.

For $300 I think you could cut the edge of the drum by an angle grinder. Half an hour or so to cut and 20 minutes to even up the edge. Being where I am I sure would bring drums to a machine shop. But I doubt it would cost more than US $30 for each drum to cut.

PAI supplys the headlight assembly and also in parts. Those plastic stands and screws avalible separately for a couple of coins.

It's also on ebay at the moment but looks like a very strange wheel to me. At least I have no idea on a model it could possibly be off.

No kidding Paul. I hope the borders will get open in a year or so and I'll be able to drive to Europe. So grabbing a can of spray and putting in a trunk would be rutine. I even could put it in a luggaje bag if resolve to shake up my bones a bit and go by motorbike.

Could be a E-model Mack. I have no clue on the shaft size but the wheel OD and the style makes the guess.

Great to hear about the boys! Time goes by and it looks like it goes the right way

Thanks. I'm looking for everything since have nothing ready

What grade of pressure do you apply? Something about the normal boos figures? Or higher?

Wonder why this table points out a few models produced up to 1983 and even 1984 years? Possibly was it mean "Hayward models" which didn't mean "trucks made in Hayward"?

Thanks for the details, interesting. I doubt that brand takes place at my country's market so the way is to import. Fluids are a trouble to purchase by post so it's an additional issue. If you use the material and satisfied with the result I'm going to keep it in my mind.

The wheel looks nice indeed. Is that Plastikote stuff sold in spray cans? And if so is it solvent resistant after got dry?

There are new York style compressors avalible already set (marked?) to R134. I'm not 100% sure but from talks with A/C folks you only need to swap oil in the compressor not the unit itself. There may be difference in the shaft seal material though.

Swapping a liner isn't a really terrible deal and they're affordable if we speak about E6 or a similar engine. That edge seals against the fire ring and if it has its portion away nobody could tell you for how long it would last. If you choose to swap the liner they may have different OD (where they fit into the block). Block can be rebored and oversized liner is used. So better to pull out the old liner first to check its OD before purchasing a new part.

Sounds like a great deal. From what I can see on the picture I guess you might redo the arms for your truck using R-model stainless arms. They have longer straight portion so cutting it to the required length and fitting attachment at the end could work the deal out. But some job needed and you would doubtly purchase them for $20 apiece.

They would work for a LT and they are 7.33 ratio I belive. I kept that set of rears on my mind for a while and even kidded up my kid when he had a trip to Schotland with his class to check the things out. Luckily I have my issue resolved.

Seems as a crime to me

Thanks for clearing me up, Glenn. I knew Mack went to much more massive crank and rods (and other parts) in a inline block but I thought it was when END-673 was made. If it was for Maxidyne it put the ducks in order.

This is interesting to read nowadays since Lanova (at least ED519) had the top revs of 2100 and 2000 when under maximum load. Doesn't look notably (or at all) lower than END-673. The 2nd point END-672 which was still Lanova had an outcome of 160 or so HP. The same figure than the next generation END-673 engine produced using similar displacement. My understanding is the jump from Lanova to Thermodyne (worth to admitt Lanova was also Thermodyne having overhead valves) was more a go from pre-chamber to the single chamber design. The most early automotive diesels utilized pre-chambers. The reason was to make the combustion process "softer" to decrease momental stresses to the engine parts. When the fuel injected into the engine first burns in the pre-chamber and than spreads out into the main chamber (cylinder) the pressure rises slower than if a single "blast" takes place. And seems like early diesels could not withstand hard burning and pre-chamber design prevailed. It also did that in cars up to the recent times. There's another matter (but with the same origin) - pre-chamber allowed a diesel to operate at high RPM's what is actual to a car. At the same time pre-chamber style has its specific disadvantages. First of all it's less fuel efficiency than a single chamber style. The reason is pre-chamber needs extensive cooling being a combustion area. So made sorrounded by cooling passages in the head body. More cooling means more heat remove i.e. energy losses and less fuel efficiency as a follow. The same matter determines difficult cold start. The most pre-chamber diesels had glow plugs. And single chamber ones don't need them. Also there's a tendency of the cylinder head to get heat cracks. It's also a generic problem. One of the main principals of designing a heat stressed part is shape symmetry. When the material expands it gets symmetrical stresses being symmetricaly shaped. And the very existance of a pre-chamber in a cylinder head makes it asymmetrical. As a result about every head off a Lanova is cracked. And quite a seldom case for END or Maxidyne/Econodyne.

The thread turned out as an interesting discussion and I heave read it whole to this point but still don't see the answer to the matter of ability realizing the Maxidyne concept. I understand the lower RPM torque rise was done by fuel and turbo settings. That's fine, Ok, the engine would pull at 1000RPM. But to me it's nothing else but extreme lugging. You add fuel and add air to burn it out and the engine pulls. But I can't figure out how the crank and the block withstanded those high stresses and a similar made Thermodyne could not? Or Mack engeneers just used the actual sturdiness of the components which could work for Maxidyne but just were not stressed up really much in Thermodyne version?

That oil pressure point makes sence to me. Actually what would you worry about lugging an engine? I think combustion process goes quite well at 1000RPM (sure not 100RPM). To me the trouble seems as insufficient oil pressure at low revs. There could be effect of high stess applied to cylinder walls or the crank group. But seems more a matter of the torque itself, not dependant to the revs. If oil pressure have meaning there must be different capacity pumps used in Maxidyne engines or a different pump drive ratio. It's easy to recognize and I belive must be a well known fact. I just never concerned it so far.