Vladislav

I mean what came into production first - U or R ?

I don't tell I know everything though there are few people in Russia who has knowelege of a same level. How do you like a country of 150 million people but with 15-20 Mack trucks on roads in 80's - 90's excepting 1-2 hundred Visions imported during the end of 90's and 2000's. I can count all Mack trucks by my fingers in the capital of the country where 12 000 000 people are at the moment.

Could I think the U is the R but with an off-set cab? Or is the R like the U with mid-mounted? What of this models came into production earlier? I'm educating on Macks from 1986 though in info vacuum. Only border's opening and internet made me happy in my best hobby.

Doesn't it depends upon number of axles? I saw DMs most (or all) with three.

The question is adressed mostly to Vinny: You are so active around your nice red'n'black 2-axler so I came in interest of. So please ask me (or anybody else) an easy question. Maybe I'm terrible Mack-educated in my "snow-jungle wild country", but What is the difference between the U model and the DM ?

Doesn't look good. Just need to fit the cab in place and it will seemed like a truck.

Nice to read discussions of this kind on BMT. Especially Uncle Rob's last post.

What was the last production year of E6? I supposed CH were equiped with E7.

Hi guys, How do you suppose is a real price to have RW with a high mileage but in working cond. and a good looking? I'm thinking for a one with a big sleeper, alloys and Mack V8. As a hobby/travel machine, not for a work. No one has seemed by me in Russia. Vlad

Congradulations Olivetroad !

The matter of question: If you use 3.87 in place of 4.17 you just need to divide 4.17 into 3.87. 4.17/3.87=1.077... It means a speed on the same rpm (and same gear) increases in 1.077 times. In other words 7.7% plus. Or 64.6 mph instead of 60. Vlad.

Just the easy thing - mathematic. There is another way - to lift one wheel and turn it full ower counting revolutions of a pinion. Next divide the number into 2 because the only 1 wheel turns and the other one stay in position - diff multiplys by 2. To have better result - make 10 revs. of a wheel and divide the number of pinion circles into 10 and 2.

Too sorry about all the happening. I suppose there is no relation between 1sy and 2nd guests, man must be crazy to come and get bullets. Anyway you would sleep with one eye opened for some nights - not a big pleasure. What's doing at your neighbores - did anybody have visitors of the same kind? Vlad

And what a kind of the nos headlights?

What the ratio in axle gears do you have? I'm looking for a pair of 7:1 - 8:1 or anything faster than 9.02:1

Thanks alot, I have this point in my travelling plan for the spring included. Don't you know some other places in Israel of gethering Mack trucks?

I also have 1988 R with 2 squares at the moment but they are terrible aftermarket and I'd like to change tham as soon as warm time comes.

My mother has not to be warried. I was born here Bad is I want to start remove a cab and an engine from my spare truck. It locates now in non-heating shed. -20 C is not comfortable to work and I have counceled to wait a week to be normal -10. Last winter I came in eastern Poland and stayed owernight in a hotel. Next morning I noted -22 and had a problem with Belorussian diesel fuel. The car didn't run more than 60 km/h until Poland fuel comed into the tank hard mixed with USA-produced anti-gel

Yes, I have gone to the garage. The wheel has both key hole and splines. But the steering column has SPLINES only, no key.

Wanted a steering wheel for 1945 NR model, looks similar to an L. Light green, beige, brown, gray or black in good condition. I have two but both are terrible. Looking also for 2 headlights (bodies) with parking lights top-mounted. Top lens inclusive, without hard rust. Main lens and reflector are not the matter of question. Ready to buy

I see you have good skill in striping models. All the written is correct of course. I can note only that metallics are better-cowers and it means you can apply less thickness of a film. That helps to reduse the step. I prefer (prefered - I was not in a modelling during 10 years and slowly coming back again) - prefer not to use ready paints but mix them from clear lack and metallic base. I used to add Humbrol/Rewell chrom coat into a clear coat of kind I like. Last times - water based Tamiya with spirit as solwent. Little pieced metallic looks realistic in scale and cowers back color efficiently. You can also apply metallic into the non-metallic color, for example in white. It doesn't change color hard but improwes cowerity. I'm shure you know Dutch F-model Mack painted as American flag - stars with stripes. I saw this truck real in Holland this authumn and it always painted in metallic - blue, red and white. How do you do during the winter? I have -20 outside. Vlad

Hello Ryan, What ready parts do you use for? Italery Superliner yellow cab has seen, but what the steering wheel/column and other gray parts are from? I'm not understood did you make correction of false-formed rear wall of the Ital's cab? It is too wide near the bottom. Are Australian air filters from English man or some lockal producent? Too interesting to have the kit in the future, especially of good quality.

Stud lock wheel (Alcoa 983100) has: Hub bore 8,73'' = 221.74 mm Bolt hole 1.219'' = 30.96 mm Hub piloted (Alcoa 983600): Hub bore 220.1 mm Bolt hole 26.75 We can see both bores are less on hub type and I would have no problem to up them to the size. Machining of the central hole required big equipement of course but I see no reason to keep the size of it hard. It doesn't pilot a wheel and no matter what id is. If anable to fit the wheel on a hub I think I don't have to work it ower. Vlad