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Vladislav

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Vladislav

  1. That's one nice looking unit. And the wheelbase is quite long for a cabover. Honestly with all those sanctions, limitations on export and higher Dollar cost in my country I feel a kind better with much less of drool over one (two-three-four) more potential never finished project. Thanks for posting the pic. Facebook is still off my achievement.
  2. The main shaft end play is managed by the main box main shaft rear bearing assembly. There are two cone bearings in a housing and also some special "nut" in there which you turn to tight up the bearings and which is set in its (new) place by a set screw you need to drill new hole for its new location. That procedure can only be done with the main shaft removed from the transmission. It gets off together with the rear bearing assembly and requires the compound box to be off the tranny. When I was doing mine I honestly forgot about that and when both blasted and painted boxes were together with a gasek on a sealer I just cheered myself up with checking up and down end play of the main shaft front end and feeling "Ok in general" rest it as it was. Haven't understood did the discussion went along the in-between the housings gasket. Maybe it worth to point out its thikness influences the countershaft pre-load/end play. So the figure which exceeds the specs may be result of thicker gasket installed in the past.
  3. My guess is ENDT673 liners are not similar to EM6/E6 ones having no edge at the upper end for sealing over the firering. That's Maxidyne/Econodyne thingy and END's/ENDT's had liners with flat top end. E6/EM6 liners are avalible through multiple aftermarket suppliers including PAI. But I have doubts on avalibility for END's.
  4. Judging by the drawing you are right. Pre-load on the countershaft. When I read LTK's post in the morning I haven't looked the diagram over. So didn't understand why the way of things went off the end play to pre-load.
  5. Seems a bit strange to hear continue on the pre-load/end play discussion since that was told in this thread above already. To point out once more. There are two different ways of managing a bearing unit. One way is when you set two bearings with a gap between them. So they're a bit free from each other, and when you make a check during assembly of such a unit you measure the play. And as you usually do it at a end it's called end play. There may be different way, when you forse one bearing agains the other. In that case rollers or balls are always under pressure during the operation. To achive that you assemble the unit forcing bearing's cone or race by a certain part (cover, nut etc). As long as you need a certain particular amount of that force (to not overtight and burn the races) you have to measure it. Usually two procedures are used for that: adding a certain distance to the part you tight up the bearing with, or measure of the spin torque. This way you put pre-load to the bearings. What's important is the way the bearings should be set up is determined in the design of the unit. And when you see a "pre-load" procedure in a repair manual you set pre-load. If you see "end play" you check the play. Which sure means a gap or clearance. Actually pre-load is a "negative end play".
  6. You can only do the adjustment at the rear end. The front bearing is not a cone, it's cylindrical and floats when you manage the position of the two shafts together by the rear bearing. See the diagram, not difficult to figure out understand the design.
  7. Checked out a cut through draw of TRD-72/720 tranny I have in a H-model parts list. The rear cover of the countershaft bearing is flush mount with the housing outer wall. It gets in indeed where it pushes the bearing race but the surrounding area (over the studs) would show a gap if the shim pack's removed. Sorry, now draw for a TRT-72 in my cabinette.
  8. Double-checked my book. The particular figure, the way it was typed there, was .000-.002. So I guess (pretty sure so far) it should be read as 0.000-0.002. Yes, for both the shafts, togeher. Each one will figure out its needed share.
  9. E-model and A-model windshields are very similar (doubtly interchengeable but who knows). The difference is E-model one is openable and A-model has it fitted into a rubber seal. L-model can't have one piece windshield since those two it has are positioned at an angle to each other (V-shaped).
  10. I did that end play setting procedure on TRD-37. Mostly similar to TRD72, just a bit older and doesn't have a sliding clutch for the 1st gear so you put the mesh in just by the gear itself, the same way as the reverse. 72's were improved a bit about that but the rest seemed very similar judging but the books. So the end play of the countershaft was prescribed to be checked with a dial indicator set against the front end of the main counter shaft. You remove the front cover of that shaft from the cluch side of the tranny. The matter is the front bearing is a cylindrical roller bearing, not a cone. So can float. The rear bearing of the front countershaft is a double cone. The front cone sets against a race installed in the main case rear wall when you forse the shaft up front (the cone oriented to the front). Behind it, also on the rear end of the main shaft the 2nd cone installed, but oriented to the rear. And the compound box countershaft's front bearing race sets against that 2nd cone. The rear end of the compound countershaft has its rear bearing race in the rear wall of the compound housing where you can load it up front with the outside bearing cover. And the grade of the affect is limited by the shims pack. This way you remove all the shims, fit the rear cover and slightly tight up a couple of nuts. Pry the main shaft through the PTO hole and look for the movement of the front end with the indicator. Turn nuts tighter to forse both the shafts to move to the front and see lesser readings. When you're withing the desired figure measure the gap between the rear cover and the housing with a filler gage and use a shim pack that thick. The book I have points out a 0.000-0.002" end play. That tranny is a predecessor of 72 series and my particular unit was made in 1945. But overall the design looks very similar so I guess those figures should work.
  11. As said above. And good luck on playing with the new toy!
  12. So true Jojo! I was lucky to meet many BMT members. Had opportunity to attend Macungie show twice. Probably should do more but jumping over the pond was not too cheap deal. First time I was there, in 2013 guys met near Whatt's stand for the group photo. And some one figured to print paper stickers to write a nick name on and fit to a short on your chest. So everybody could recognize everybody and there were nearly 30+ guys there than! That was fun. Also I keep personal contacts with a few people on/from here and was helped out multiple times.
  13. Almost as Terry said above. You set end play for both main and compound countershafts together. Of how to identify a tranny the way could be opening the top covers (which worth to do anyway before anything else) and figure it's duplex or triplex and direct or over just by looking at the gears.
  14. If so look for a shop which could blast and paint one or two spiders at a time for you. They're heavy so easier to not work out all the lot at once. Also might worth looking for a "seasonal worker" who could come to your place once in a week, for example on Saturday and do some jobs like taking a hub off, washing it and prepping for further make up.
  15. It's definetly nice to do things you like to do. I enjoyed the bottle you presented to me. And was very proud to be personally in touch with one of the BMT legends.
  16. Hi, If I'm not wrong the dampener and the pulley are similar to what was used on Thermodyne (OHV) Mack gassers, such as EP, EY and maybe others. Actually may also depend on which kind of a truck your dampener belonds to. Mine is off a military NR-model. I expect the fitting to the crankshaft and pulley offset are similar but not sure on the OD and the actual design. And if I'm not wrong ED519 crankshaft is intercheangeable (similar) to EP510 gasser. Vlad
  17. I would suggest so detailed description of the way the hot sause to be performed may sky rocket chances of possible competitors to produce ̷c̷h̷e̷a̷p̷ ̷C̷h̷i̷n̷e̷s̷e̷ alternative products. So seems better to not share the know-how. Love the look of that old mill. With this type of season and the weather it brings memories of my fall cruising of neighbourhoods in PA, NJ and CT in 2018.
  18. Wow! Impressive fact! Sure adds "colorfulness" to the event
  19. Thanks the great for the pics! Looks like the day was really nice before it started raining. The line up of Big Horns is impressive. Aside of them there were plenty of pleasure to see trucks.
  20. Bob, honestly I wouldn't buy new tyres before blast/paint rims and hubs. Or at least figure the exact plan on how to do that and when. If you're with Budds it's easier but if there are spokes (as I expect for a DM and your taste) you would probably need a media blast crue to dirt up your yard. Or drive the truck to different place for and keep it there on stands for the time the hubs are cleaned and painted. Doing that way you better have new tyres already fitted on new/repainted rims though to throw them on the truck right there. So tyres may be seen of reason to purchase earlier indeed. But anyway keeping them in mind makes sence keeping in mind all the wheel story together. Another option is removing hubs and blast/paint them separately. This is the way I do. But you would need to remove all bearings, wash them, inspect, and if they're good just new seals would be on the list. You would also need washing through the bearing cavits (otherwise you'd do that anyway to remove grease with sand) or fabricate solid steel covers (by a lathe?) and cover the inside of the hubs with them using sealer. So the truck needs to be kept on stands for all the time. Ok, there's one more option. Purchasing of a spare set of hubs to play with them keeping the truck on its own. Recently I like that approach too but aside of need of additional iron in the yard you get risk of miss matching bearings or other mating moments using parts from aside.
  21. If you're going to purchase any Chinese tyres I would advice you to get all 8 in one time. Or just do other way and buy 2 steers. They Double Coins, Triangles, Westlakes and Aeoluses are taking place at the local market for more a decade to the moment. People drive them there and here and I haven't heard any really bad feedbacks about them. But what I have found is if a certain producent/brand sells a certain model with a certain thread style (which is usually a copy of a certain classic Michelin, Bridgestone etc thread pattern) some years later you find out that particular model is out of production. Or even the brand completely. I bought a set of 11R24,5 Aeolus drives (and 2 steers) for the R-model in 2013. They're sure still like new on the truck because I have driven no more that 3000 km since. But once had damaged a sidewall of one of the drives (luckily just a lil bit) and thought of to look for options for purchasing a spare. Nothing! That model was already out of stock and no other new tyres of the similar pattern avalible.
  22. So any turn out on the story? Was the truck purchased and would we see new pics of a LT Mack in the gallery?
  23. For the era it could be nearly 8 or 9 or so. Something like BX75-1001. Front rails area is the most making sence place to check out. What did you do to the rig? Put newer truck axles? Or any other ones? What size of tyres did you fit? Are those truck tyres or car tyres? Vlad
  24. I would grab 'em but I'm afraid shipping would be a PITA nowadays.
  25. That's not Lanova. Lanova's distingueshing feature is injectors located at the side of the head. The reason was pre-chambers were fitted right opposite for the fuel injected stream to go straight into the pre-chamber's incoming channel. So you could see side mounted injectors at one side of a head and pre-chamber locking brackets at the other. Telling this I conclude that engine above is a kind of Thermodyne and later than early 50's. And that's not Buda since those early Buda's were Buda-Lanova's. Damn interesting unit shown in the pics indeed. Single head, artificial exhaust manifold... Would be cool to figure out the truth on its model and design features.
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