Vmac3

Sorry Glenn, I have never done this swap before. I do remember a bulletin that was released years ago from changing a housing from a non vmac to a vmac housing where you had to use longer bolts. Data erratic code. I'm assuming you tried to adjust the sensor. Is the sensor lined up with the flywheel markings? V

I just remembered something, Does this truck have a Qualcomm, ABS or anything else plugged into the J1939/1587/1708? If it does unplug it. Check in the fuse panel and you will find terminal studs marked 1587- and + (I believe) if someone can verify it. If it does remove any extra wires that are connected to it. You may have a module interfering with the Datalink. I vaguely remember having this issue. This check will not take long. Unplug these modules and recheck. Please be absolutely sure to have all the power and grounds checked as mentioned earlier (starter, battery, relays etc...). V

Thank you Joey. I watch the forum and participate when needed. You and a few others have a lot covered, I learn for yours and their experiences. Appreciate you and others on this forum. V

Sounds like infamous Power rest without key switch code. There is a connector on top of the transmission clutch housing that may be loose. Wiggle that and see what happens. V

The primary and secondary fuel pressures should be checked first. 4inhg on the suction side and around 70 psi on the secondary side. I also had several units where the guide pin for the EUP roller broke off and caused an engine miss. V

What is the fuel pressure under load on the primary and secondary side? Have you checked for fault codes? Has the charge air cooler and intake system been pressure tested? V

I don't want to come across as being an ass, but how much time has been put into diagnosing this oil pressure issue? To me it sounds like you have an oil passage as being restricted. There may be some junk that is blocking the oil galleries or the main bearings are the wrong ones, causing all this grief. With all the information we have so far, Rods and mains are within spec. Oil cooler is not blocked. No leakage from cam bushings???? Oil pump okay. Oil is at the proper level. This leads me to a restriction somewhere. You may want to recheck the parts you put into this engine. V

Oil leak I believe.

No problem, if you have any other questions there are a lot of smart people on this that can help out. V

Never tried using a multimeter because we had the tool that Joey has shown. I dont believe it will work because the sensor is a voltage generating sensor. Setting it to read continuity wont do any good and checking if there is a voltage change wont do any good either. The changes in A/C voltage are very small when it passes the gear with the slot in it. V

That's the one my friend.

Before you remove the pump, the engine should be placed at the appropriate crankshaft degree. The degree in which the engine should be placed will be on the engine data plate. The flywheel will have these marks so you can place the engine to that specific degree. The pump drive gear is removed. The pump can be removed at this point. Clean and install the gasket. Installed the pump. There is a special tool that is placed in the timing event marker bore that will set the pump to the proper position. If you don't have access to the tool, you can position the pump by visually looking for the gear that has a slot in it. Keep rotating the pump until you see it line up with the timing event sensor bore. After that put all back together. When you put the timing event sensor back, put a little silicone on the threads screw it in until it stops. The sensor should screw in very easily. If you have to force it in then the threads are probably damaged. The only way to be absolutely sure is to use the timing tool. I don't have a part number but I do know it is a Kent Moore tool. V

Nearly spit out my coffee when I read this. Too funny V

From what I remember, if you are replacing the flywheel housing, the engine block has to be cleaned and the dowel pin needs to be removed. If the block is not absolutely clean then your readings will definitely be off. You install the new housing up dry, tight enough so it wont move but loose enough so you can make adjustments. Put a magnetic base dial indicator on the crankshaft and with a long enough stylus measure the total indicated runout. Adjust the flywheel housing to spec. If the runout is in spec (max if I remember it is around .007"of runout) check to see if the dowel pin hole is aligned. If it is then you are good to go. Install the housing using the Mack grey silicone. If not while the housing is on the engine, you have to drill out the dowel pin hole on the flywheel housing and install an oversize dowel pin. I printed and saved the part numbers for oversized dowel pins from somewhere. As Joey indicated make sure you use the Mack Grey silicone. If this procedure is not done carefully then your rear main seal will leak. Here you go. 183GC192-P1 with pin size (0.623–0.624) 183GC192-P2 with pin size (0.639–0.640) and hole size (0.637–0.638) 183GC192-P3 with pin size (0.656–0.657) and hole size (0.654–0.655) 183GC192-P4 with pin size (0.686–0.687) and hole size (0.684–0.6585) V

I was digging through some old service bulletins and found this offset key bulletin. I will attach it. According to SB-213-018, the off set keyway changed the cam timing 1 degree/2 degrees on the crank from the straight keyway. In this case the engine would be 2 degrees retarded. Here is the procedure I found in a service manual. I copied and pasted it directly from the engine manual for an E-Tech engine. Camshaft timing can be checked using either the cylinder No. 3 or No. 4 inlet valve. For example purposes, the No. 3 cylinder will be used in the steps below. 1. Remove the cylinder head cover over cylinder No. 3. 2. Locate the inlet valves for No. 3 cylinder (the sixth valve set from the front of engine). Bar the engine to position the No. 3 piston at top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke. 3. Loosen (back off) the inlet valve rocker adjusting screw jam nut. Ensure that the valve yoke is correctly adjusted. Adjust the inlet valve to zero lash. 4. Position a dial indicator (magnetic-base type) probe on the valve spring retainer. Preload the indicator to 1/2 indicator plunger travel. 5. Bar the engine in the direction of normal rotation and carefully observe the direction in which the indicator needle travels. Use the dial indicator to determine when the inlet valve is fully open. 6. Stop rotating the engine when travel of the dial indicator needle stops. If the dial indicator needle reverses direction, the fullopen position is passed. Repeat the procedure if this occurs. 7. Remove the timing hole cover from the flywheel housing so that the flywheel timing marks can be viewed. Engine timing should be approximately 26 degrees. A difference of approximately 10 degrees indicates that the crankshaft-to-camshaft timing gears may be mismatched one tooth. If an offset keyway is installed, then the engine would be 2 degrees +or-. V Sb213018.pdf

Originally this engine had a straight keyway. If a horsepower change is done for this vintage of vehicle then an offset keyway is required. The white part of the keyway should be facing out towards the timing cover. Good idea Joey, if possible get a scope inside and see what the color is on that keyway. Unfortunately I highly doubt the keyway is offset, but its worth a try. V

Wrong engine module? CCRS and Etech are not interchangeable unless a software change is done. V

When that fan engages you will know that it's on. V

When you say the fan is on all the time, is it freewheeling or is it pulling air through the radiator? V

Since you are there check the belts/tensioners and that plastic idler pulley. V

CXN613 AC engine. Water Pump Cartridge part # 316GC3193 and the O-Ring part# 446GC330. It will probably change to a Volvo number but this should suffice. V

Check the governor setting. If it's set to all speed, set it to min-max.

That blue silicone hose has a screen in the lower "tee" portion going into the lower rad hose. V

It has to do with the volume of air entering the brake chamber. The smaller the diameter hose the less amount of air entering the brake chamber within a given amount of time. This will affect brake timing. Going down in hose I.D will dramatically change brake timing. V

Yes you would be correct with a fully mechanical fuel system. I had seen a few glider kits with those engines. The exact date of when Vmac4 came out I don't recall, but I do remember it was in the 2005 Mack Pinnacle trucks with a MP7 with no exhaust aftertreatment. From 2005 to 2012 (with a red engine) Mack called their electronic system VMAC4. When US2013 emissions came out it was called VMAC4+ and to date it is called the same. The next emissions change has been implemented from 2021-2027 for the reduction of greenhouse gases. Here is the link for more information. https://www.epa.gov/regulations-emissions-vehicles-and-engines/regulations-greenhouse-gas-emissions-commercial-trucks The EPA is targeting trailers as well. I am not sure as to how, my guess more aerodynamics, less paint, tire inflation systems, super single tires to name a few. They may even get rid of the auxiliary cable and have a 4 pin cable with a power, ground and J1939 communications from the truck and trailer. Not sure, but changes are coming. If someone has more information on trailer changes I would be interested in knowing what. V