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Vmac3

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Everything posted by Vmac3

  1. Welcome. If you have any questions feel free to ask. Great people here. V
  2. These are good trucks. Don't expect to outrun any big block Cats or Cummins equipped vehicles. These are excellent small blocks that will do the job. V
  3. 2002 was a good year. They introduced the CCRS engine at this time. The camshaft issues they had were not as common as before. The most typical configuration was the 400hp with a 8LL and 4.35 rears. It all depends what kind of maintenance this vehicle had. Valve adjustments are a real big deal for these engines. But overall a good truck. More reliable than what is being made today. V
  4. Oh and by the way, The CL is an excellent truck. V
  5. You would be correct my friend. It is hard to trace these air leaks down especially if you have constant ringing in your ears! I agree, try and separate the two systems and look at the most obvious, but it can be a bother tracing a leak that leaks down in a couple of hours or overnight. I have found leaks appear when the air ride on the suspension or the cab is extended but when the air ride is at ride height the leaks go away. I would check the tractor protect valve, I believe its located above the treadle valve. These sometimes leak as well. Also check the exhaust from the dash valve, I have also seen them continuously leak. So it can be tedious, so patience and common sense must prevail. Joey made some excellent suggestions and others too. But man it can be a pain in the a## to try and find these leaks. V
  6. There are actuators that are controlled by air that are behind the dash that move the flaps in the vent box. These are always prone to leakage. If I remember correctly the air cylinder is white. The other air leaks can be coming from anywhere.,from air fittings, lines, valves and the air springs. Best thing to do is fix the obvious leaks that you can hear and use a sprayer with soap and water and look for the less obvious leaks. This can be a time consuming problem. I would fix the audible air leaks and not worry about those very small ones. V
  7. You would be correct. I believe it's 1850. Nevertheless I agree with what you are saying. The engine block and rotating assembly won't withstand the torque twist for long. V
  8. If you get a chance, check the valve adjustment on these engines. I have found that the cylinder that requires less shims in a particular cylinder than the others is a cause for concern. Especially #5. The valve seat is being pounded into the head, the valve itself is beginning to stretch or the valve face is folder over. V
  9. The injector trim codes is not life and death but very critical for precise adjustments. This will tell the engine ecu the operating characteristics of the injector. Each injector is manufactured to different tolerances. The engine ecu will use this trim code to calculate a more precise injection event. Also the engine ecu will be able to determine what is the injectors operating range. So when you are doing a injector contribution test, you are seeing how the engine ecu is making fueling changes. Now if you did not have the trim code installed in the engine ecu when replacing an injector, the ecu would not be able to properly make these adjustments because it thinks that the old injector is in place. As for your percentages, I would run a cylinder compression test and make sure that #2 is okay because #2 fuel injector is over fueling. Might want to pull that injector out and see if the cup has failed. V
  10. Thank you DCW. Joey is a very kind person, helping out and sharing his valuable experiences. The easiest way to visually figure out if the truck has a Vmac1 or Vmac2 is, Vmac1 had a square electrical pass-through and Vmac2 had a round aluminum connector that had a nut that secured it self to the firewall plug. Vmac3 came out in 1998 and of course it had the EUPs. Vmac 4 came out in 2005ish, it was first introduced to the MP7. Vmac4 is the red Mack engine. Volvo first introduced this engine to Mack then later to itself. It was a US04 emissions vehicle. It had an EGR system but no exhaust after-treatment B.S. Yes it even had copper injector cups that never failed. Vmac4 is still in use today, it really is Volvo's software. When they introduced these new engine to Mack I attended dealer training, they told us that they wanted to make Mack and Volvo engines visually and audibly different, so one thing that they did was they changed the fuel mapping on the Mack so it would sound different from a Volvo and lets not forget the paint color. As for PTT, it will connect to Vmac3. 2013 Mack vehicles were called Vmac4. In my opinion, arguably the best vehicle that Mack made was Vmac2 especially the last ones built. The wiring was very good, it had very thick insulation, the engine was almost bullet proof. The fuel system was top notch. 2 million km was not out of the ordinary on these puppies. V
  11. What are the oil clearances on #2 and #5 main bearings? You are looking for .003".
  12. I just learned something. I never thought of supplying a different battery to the ECU power fuse. Thanks Joey V
  13. You mentioned that when you put a battery charger on, the engine starts up. I am thinking that there may be a voltage drop issue, starter is pulling too much voltage causing the engine ecu not to receive enough voltage to stay awake as the engine is cranking over or weak batteries. I've seen this many times and its worth a try checking the batteries and all the power connections from the batteries to the starter. Total voltage drop across the positive cables and connections should be less than 0.5V. All of these suggestions that are posted here by Joey are excellent and will cause these issues. Its a process of elimination. V
  14. That is an interesting fault. No codes stored in any ECU? I wonder if you are shorting J1939 to 12V?? Normal voltage on the J1939 is 0V-2.5V on the green wire and 2.5V-5V on the yellow wire. Try checking the voltage with a multimeter with the key on engine running and with the signals on. Wiggle the harnesses by steering column and see what happens. You can access the J1939 at the data link port. beside the steering column. V
  15. Sounds like the timing cover is damaged. Like F and Joey mentioned, I would leave it alone and see what happens. If it leaks again then I would try a heli coil. V
  16. How does the engine brake operate? Low oil pressure will have an effect on the engine brake. Does this also happen when the engine oil new? There are many things that can cause this issue, worn engine bearings, bad oil pressure sensor and oil leaking out of rocker shafts. V
  17. Late in posting in this thread, but I have never done a bearing roll on a MP series engine. In fact I stopped doing them during the ASET days. Engine oil technology has come a long way. Also these new engines rarely ever have issues in the rotating assembly. Something causes the rotating assembly to fail, double idler gear and the aluminum shaving associated with it, blown turbo, fuel dilution and the likes. As long as the maintenance was always up to snuff then no need. Like Joey and F said, its a pain in the ass to get to the rods, mains and the oil pump. If you plan in doing this job, please be extra cautious because the stiffening plate is extremely sharp on one side and it will slice your hands like a hot knife through butter. Best tot take an oil sample and see what the lab finds. V
  18. I appreciate the compliments Joey. I always enjoy reading your input as well. If we all can collaborate we can help many. V
  19. I forgot to mention the 100 psi check valve part# is 63AM28. V
  20. Hey Joey, That test is a good test to see if the regulated pressure is set too low for the fuel system. I would squeeze the return line slowly until the idle stabilizes. Yes F is correct, care has to be taken. If the idle does smooth out then the higher regulated pressure check valve can be installed. But this may lead to other issues such as diesel fuel diluting into the engine oil. I used to recommend installing the updated delta seals on the EUP once the fuel pressure was at 100 psi. Here is the Delta Seal part# 1899-071356. Also there were datafiles that were released by Mack that tried to solve this issue. I say try because it worked sometimes. V
  21. I have just received this same message. V
  22. I was able to muster this info up on the build sheet. According to the Mack/Volvo mainframe this vehicle came up with a 17 digit VIN. I am sorry if I am misleading anyone. V
  23. This is what I was able to find with the info off of the picture. VIN 1M2N179Y6FA003147 Model R686ST Build Date 06/28/85 Engine EM6-300-4VH This engine is a beauty. A diamond in the rough. Good old E6-4 Valve. Keep those valves adjusted and basic maintenance, should be an excellent vehicle. V
  24. Absolutely true. If the price of parts don't get you, the downtime will. V
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