Jump to content


Big Dog
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Vmac3

  1. Measure the liner protrusion in two spots opposite of each other. This will give you an idea if the liner is sitting true in the block. V
  2. My apologies for giving false information. Install the seal so the lip is facing the radiator. V
  3. The sensor is on the filter pad close to the engine block. Can you attach a pic so we can see what we are dealing with? V
  4. You may have a light bulb that may of fell in behind the dash for the check engine light and its burned out. In order for the speedo sensor to go inactive, you have to drive the vehicle. So plug in the old VECU and try that first. AS for the daisy chain, can't help there. Let us know what you find. V
  5. The lip of the seal should face towards the engine. V
  6. My apologies. Is this an Australian build? After testing it with lower coolant level and if it still pushes coolant with a heavy load, you may want to check for combustion gases in the coolant. V
  7. God idea. Jump the compressor to rule it out. May also be the egr cooler that is leaking. Remove the pipe front the cooler outlet and see if there is coolant. Let us know what you find. V
  8. When you say no power, are you saying it doesn't pull on the hills and flats? This MP7 is an 11 liter engine compared to your cummins where it was a 15L (I am assuming it was an ISX?). I would not chase the turbo as of yet. Check the basics CAC, intake, fuel pressure and fault codes. Lots of issues with older MP series engines that caused low power. V
  9. I'm not sure what type of vehicle you have, but generally speaking, if the ecu detects a fault in the spedometer circuit, it will defuel the engine and put the vehicle in a limp mode, so the owner of the vehicle is forced to repair the speedometer issue, especially for older vehicles. A derating power option can be turned on or off for Etech engines. In case of a speedometer fault in newer vehicles they will register vehicle speed using the ABS. V
  10. Has the code come up after the engine camshaft been changed? Could be bad wiring. V
  11. Its on the fire wall above the steering shaft. V
  12. You would be correct Joey. Keith mentioned that his speedo dropped off as well. May have another issue as well, power rest code, datalink code. May even be a faulty boost pressure sensor. May want to check that fuel pressure as well. Slipping transfer pump gear or garbage in the fuel tank. Dunno, but I'd check out these things as well. Does the check engine light come on when these things happen? V
  13. Sounds like it can cause a fuel knock. The engine ecu monitors crankshaft speed between each power stroke. If the speed of the crankshaft is not what the ecu expects then in this case it will lengthen the injectors pulse width. If you have a worn out injector lobe then not enough pressure will build in the injector, when it comes time to inject, instead the diesel fuel coming out as a fine mist, it just dribbles out. This can cause all kinds of problems, and a fuel knock is just a minor one. V
  14. Hi John, Have you made any headway for this communication error? V
  15. Is there a grey plug at the rear of the injection pump? V
  16. You would need to access vmac online and upload your vin and the engine ecu hardware number so the system (Mack mainframe) can select the software and data file for your truck. Also you would have to save the current parameters that is already loaded in the ecu (you don't really have too, you can reprogram the parameters yourself but you may loose the milage). There is a verification file that would need to be done before any programming is done. Its a step by step process. Not sure how a customer would do this process without access to Mack Volvo dealer portal. Sorry I don't have the solution for you. V
  17. Disconnect the batteries and check the resistance between C and D at the communication connector. You should see 60 ohms there. If it's lower then you may have a short to ground. If it's higher around 120 ohms the you may have a broken communication wire. Also make sure you remove any aftermarket equipment that may be tapped into the J1939. Assuming you have a manual transmission there should be nothing else other than the ABS module and of course the engine and vehicle ecu connected to it. V
  18. Joey, thank you for this post. I feel the same way. I simple thank you to the community for their responses and the fix they found can go a long way. I/we are under no obligation to give advice to anyone, I like most people on this site learned from trial and error that took countless hours, not to forget about the busted knuckles and fingers. Awesome site and great people. I am glad i found this place. V
  19. Hate to be the guy to tell you, but this model and year were not very reliable. Mack came out with updates on their entire egr system and turbo. They had updates for the updates. Check with your Mack dealer and see what has been done. They should see the repairs because most of these updates were completed while the vehicle was under warranty. As for preventing any future failures, other than regular maintenance, there is not much you can do. V
  20. There are several threads that address this issue. You have continued from a thread 5 years ago. Year make and model of your truck should be added so the community can help you out. V
  21. Long life coolant should be tested for acidity and sca content. I know that fleetgaurd sells them. To change a coolant filter without checking the condition of the coolant should be avoided. The newer Etechs with long life coolant did not come with a coolant filter. Mr grumby is correct, stick an untreated coolant canister back on and check the the condition of the coolant. If it needs additives, they sell them in packets or liquid. V
  • Create New...