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Vmac3

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  1. Joey, thank you for this post. I feel the same way. I simple thank you to the community for their responses and the fix they found can go a long way. I/we are under no obligation to give advice to anyone, I like most people on this site learned from trial and error that took countless hours, not to forget about the busted knuckles and fingers. Awesome site and great people. I am glad i found this place. V
  2. Hate to be the guy to tell you, but this model and year were not very reliable. Mack came out with updates on their entire egr system and turbo. They had updates for the updates. Check with your Mack dealer and see what has been done. They should see the repairs because most of these updates were completed while the vehicle was under warranty. As for preventing any future failures, other than regular maintenance, there is not much you can do. V
  3. There are several threads that address this issue. You have continued from a thread 5 years ago. Year make and model of your truck should be added so the community can help you out. V
  4. Long life coolant should be tested for acidity and sca content. I know that fleetgaurd sells them. To change a coolant filter without checking the condition of the coolant should be avoided. The newer Etechs with long life coolant did not come with a coolant filter. Mr grumby is correct, stick an untreated coolant canister back on and check the the condition of the coolant. If it needs additives, they sell them in packets or liquid. V
  5. May want to check the vibration damper as well. This can cause this issue as well. V
  6. When you road test the truck and activate the engine brake with an external switched 12V power source, you say it works as it should? V
  7. You certainly can use the spring loaded pushrods on steel rollers. Just remember to plug off the oil feed hole from the rockers with a rivet. Joey you are correct in saying that the spring loaded pushrods are the same length when they are compressed as the 417 pushrods. I have seen a non engine brake ETech with spring loaded pushrods on the intake side as well. I am not sure if it was factory installed or it was installed by another dealer. It came in because the cam was wiped out. Joey its not your fault. Installing ceramic lifters takes extra time and care and I am sure with your experience you know and have done them plenty of times. I used a magnet and placed the lifter onto the cam using a long screwdriver. Also I was very careful installing the pushrods, also I put oil on the end of the pushrod and feel the surface tension of the lifter and pushrod. So many things could have happened, such as, when the rockers are installed and if they are not installed correctly, when torquing the top end, if the pushrod(s) are not installed correctly, and when the engine is turned you will hear a "SNAP". If it has a ceramic lifter, well then its toast. I was never a fan of these ceramic lifters simply because it does not take much for them to get damaged. Just my 2 cents. V
  8. Do not advance the timing, Cylinder pressures can get out of control and may cause harm to the engine. These engines were not known for tons of power, they were known for reliability and adequate power. V
  9. If it has a spacer between the cylinder head and the top cover then it will be a jake brake. Most of those engines had the power leash. Try removing the electrical connector to the valve cover and stick a test light in each of the electrical connectors (front and rear head) Turn on the engine brake and snap the throttle at varying rpms and see if the light stays on. If it flickers then you have a electrical problem on the outside. I believe the engine has to be up to temp before you can turn on the brake. Simple check, let us know what you find. V
  10. Put a straight edge across the clutch disc surface so it intersects the mounting bolt hole flange. Measure from the lower part of the mounting bolt hole flange to the bottom of the straight edge, minimum measurement is 1.066". V
  11. Sorry Glenn, I have never done this swap before. I do remember a bulletin that was released years ago from changing a housing from a non vmac to a vmac housing where you had to use longer bolts. Data erratic code. I'm assuming you tried to adjust the sensor. Is the sensor lined up with the flywheel markings? V
  12. I just remembered something, Does this truck have a Qualcomm, ABS or anything else plugged into the J1939/1587/1708? If it does unplug it. Check in the fuse panel and you will find terminal studs marked 1587- and + (I believe) if someone can verify it. If it does remove any extra wires that are connected to it. You may have a module interfering with the Datalink. I vaguely remember having this issue. This check will not take long. Unplug these modules and recheck. Please be absolutely sure to have all the power and grounds checked as mentioned earlier (starter, battery, relays etc...). V
  13. Thank you Joey. I watch the forum and participate when needed. You and a few others have a lot covered, I learn for yours and their experiences. Appreciate you and others on this forum. V
  14. Sounds like infamous Power rest without key switch code. There is a connector on top of the transmission clutch housing that may be loose. Wiggle that and see what happens. V
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