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Porch Pup
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About Vmac3

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  1. Comes in a red tube if I remember correctly.
  2. You are so right JoJo. Impact is such a disaster. I loved using EIS before it changed.
  3. Be on the lookout for a white paint mark on a crank journal. That means that journal was undercut by .002" from the factory.
  4. The engine kit will usually supply the RTV.
  5. Could be. It would be interesting if he/she can take a snapshot of some live data and we can see whats happening. EGR data, injector data, and codes. But I think do the easy checks first would rule a lot out. V
  6. Hi Bdschafer. How did the one shop come to the conclusion that the engine ECM was defective and another shop said the ABS module was defective? Did they explain a diagnostic process to come to that conclusion? There is an old saying in our industry, keep it simple stupid. I am a firm believer that the simple things should be ruled out first. Even though people here did not experience the same situation, others may guide you to help in a diagnostic process. Was the fuel pressure checked during the problem and after it cleared up? Was the cooling system checked for combustion gas
  7. I have retrofitted Etech engines but never E7 mechanical. You are better off not even pursuing this endeavor because you will be very disappointed. Those engine brakes did not do much in engine braking. If you plan on doing this, i would like to hear back on the braking performance. V
  8. I have rebuilt these boxes because of the the sector shaft leaking. In the end it's not worth it. After replacing the sector shaft and resealing the box add labor it doesn't make sense. If the inputshaft has a groove, then the box is toast. Sorry, i wish I had another idea, but as JOJO said it, you are better off with another box.
  9. I had fixed a truck with the same correction as Jojo. It had the wrong boost pressure sensor. As F mentioned, you have to check fuel pressure first then take it from there.
  10. I was thinking about this, and the only thing that I could come up with is the amount of time that the turbocharger would need to pressurize the intake. If the egr cross over tubes is not blocked off (blocking it off at the mixing chamber) then more time would be required to pressurize the intake. But that would be it. V
  11. I was able to dig up info. Measure the sensor depth using a nut, bolt and washer. remove the sensor(s). Screw the bolt in until it contacts the cam gear and the ring gear. Measure the bolt length. Here are the specs. The "P" numbers are the shims thickness in thousands of an inch. P30 =0.030". Too close or too far the sensor will not read correctly. Less than/equal to 1.328 (2) P30 1.329 through 1.343 (1) P15 + (1) P30 1.344 through 1.358 (1) P30 1.359 through 1.373 (1) P15 Equal to/greater than 1.374 None V
  12. Good call. 3-2 or a 3-4. Engine rpm and cam position sensors respectfully. Power reset without key switch. Can be either of these. Also that model year had a bad problem with coolant wicking from the coolant overflow bottle. Coolant would wick through the coolant level sensor and into the engine ecu. Hopefully it a simple fix. V
  13. Hello PlayingHooky13, When you turn the key in the on position does the dash light up? Is the malfunction indicator on (lightning bolt) on the dash? If it is, you can retreive the code by turning off the cruise control switch and press the set/resume switch down. It will give you a blink code. If it does let us know what the code is. If not, then it could be several things. Without spraying quick start, when you crank the engine over do the dash lights flicker on and off quickly? If it does it may be the battery voltage is too low for the engine ecu to get powered up, it requires I
  14. I attend the truck show every year at the international center by the airport.
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