Joey Mack

Have you checked fuel pressure? There was an issue with the lift pumps slipping. I have replaced dozens of them. It's an easy inspection to do... Pull the lift pump off and see if the plastic gear is slipping on the pump shaft. When this part of the fuel system is good... the pressure should be, between 80-100 PSI... The regulator is in the block, right side, below #4+#5 cyl. it's a 45 degree fitting, #6 J.I.C. fitting and may have a 1/4" barb on it with the plastic return line hooked to it. for what it's worth, I /We,do understand, You asked for help and we will ask for more info, so that we can help you the best way possible.. Keep posting, and we will get this fixed.. Jojo

My friends Superliner has an A/C system under the passenger seat, the grill condensor is on the frame behind the cab with its own cooling fan. it works good, add a small fan to move the air, and you should be good,,, No Snowflakes will come from the vents, sorry.... It was under $700.00, it uses the compressor on the engine, the rest is self contained.. I willl try to get the name tomorrow, jojo

E-7...... great!! PAI has a bunch of parts for this engine. Mack dealers, not so good... Robert Bosch pump, looks dry on the outside.. Looks like the A/C works.... seems like the clutch is in..... I wish I was shopping with you... I live near Charlotte, N.C. I am able to get Inj. Pumps, Injectors, and turbo's re-built... I Just put one on an E-9 on tuesday. great test drive.... anyway, my small point here is that, if you have shops that can do these jobs for the engine, that may help youre decision. I wish you good luck. Jojo

Mack's are slow and deliberate... What you have is an E-Tech. How much of the repair history do you have? The S400-SO41 turbo was used a lot on the 350/400's,and I think the 427, if I recall correctly. So with little info right now. Before I go into a Mountain when you may have a molehill,,, I will wait for more info and comments from the many "Very smart" people here... Jojo

I havent watched the video yet.... no big deal... For me and my People, is simple...... we were doing just fine during trump's repair of our economy, the racism crap is just theater, the Kung Flu, was a scapegoat to use, to help destroy our economy, they (Biden Gov.) broke it, just so they can fix it and take a victory lap..... as far as the rest of the world....... I care, and hope that all of you can overcome youre own dictators and haters...... I am not a world traveler, so I have no idea if other countries have the same A-Hole's that we have.... Still wish I could come to youre country and have a beer or few... with you! With respect, Jojo

I forgot to tell you that on the front valve cover, on both, there is a data plate, everything you need to know, to start research, is right there... jojo

As a MACK mechanic for 23 years, I have a lot of opinions.... The 2000 model has had its share of issues, cam/ lifters,,, and bridge pins, weak engine brakes, EUP codes, (8-1 through 6),and 8-9, pushing coolant out of the surge tank,,,, ( stupid design) trying to manage 12 gallons of coolant in a 3/4 gallon tank... just my opinion there. this engine has run up to a million miles... The 2004 has a redesigned valve train with ceramic lifter rollers for the valves, and spring loaded pushrods on the exhaust valves, however, the Powerleash engine brake is much better than the 690 Jacobs brake on the 2000... assuming there is engine brakes on these units. the 2004, CEGR has a boatload of sensors and High Dollar exhaust parts, Turbo+ EGR valve and cooler, for example... you will certainly have 8-? codes, 4-9, and 9-5, every 6 months... so here are a few of my opinions, there will be several folks commenting on this topic, and you will learn a lot.. there are very smart people here. My suggestion is to get as much repair history as you can. also, it's odd that they would make repairs if you buy one but not repair it to keep it. what do you think? as far as cement truck bodies, wiring issues can be expected because of the cement dust and fluid cement getting into every damn opening. this damages the wiring in a bunch of different ways, corroasion, chaffing, just plain pulling the wires apart, and so-on... Good luck with this purchase, and trust youre gut! Jojo

I guess the sensor for the cam is the issue?? there is a spec for the distance to the cam gear from the sensor hole. I dont have a listing for it, however, I have seen it posted here before. on some of these I have removed the teardrop shaped shim behind the sensor, and the darn thing would run right...... anyway, there is a spec for it. mabey you can look back to find the post.

yes I think so, I was basically showing an example of a bulb... but for some reason I couldnt remember the exact description...

screw it all the way till it touches, then back it out 1 full turn and lock it down.. and ..... Pay attention to Glenn... jojo

Ok, I forgot that I had some bulbs.. Forget #68,, i think those were for the strip that has the turn signals and low air and such, like in an MR or LE... I believe the bulb pics I sent are correct. Just look to see if these bulbs are in the circuit board... Jojo

You take the cluster out of the dash... unplug it... then take it apart and change the little tiny bulbs.. I think the are #68 bulbs.. wicked small,,, I beleive they are in a little socket that turns a 1/4 turn to remove/install them... Just be careful handeling the circuit board... its about $1000.00 if you break it.. You may be able to remove the bulbs from the socket or you will have to buy the bulb and socket complete. I used to get these from MACK... I'm sorry that I dont have a picture of the bulbs... jojo

American Pride has been attacked by many here in the U.S., as a veteran, raised by veterans, we love our country... Really everyday is the 4th, or veterans day, or Memorial Day.... We just love our Great nation... Jojo

America the Beautiful..!!!! God Bless Us All.!! Luv U Bob..

I also made attachments for mine, 5000lb. lift.. I cant live without mine! I get it.... well, I have built a few here already, and I just need to organize my shop and 'tool-up'.. 👍

It's funny Glenn... I was just thinking about when I built 2, E-7's and an E-Tech on the floor at the dealership I was at, a few years ago,. I got some "opinions " from a few about my technique..... however I got them done and didn't have to re-do anything. I know I can use my small shop to get it done... Jojo

I still haven't decided how I'm going to use my .16 cent savings this weekend.. Any help on how to spend or invest it would be much appreciated. jojo

I figured you had a hoist.. I can probably do something like that. I Have a Moffet Mounty forklift that I use to do the engines thus far. It does good. a complete E-6 on the stand that I have is just light enough that my machine can handle it... Thanks for your input Glenn.. Happy 4th!!! Joey

Just curiuos, how did you rotate the bigger engines?

at first I checked them by eye and with a rod to check depth, i could not check rotation, I just received the installer tool and the alignment checker is on its way. $725.00 out of pocket for the tools, however, I get calls to build E-Techs and E-7's often, so mabey I will switch-up how I do things and turn my shop into an engine room. I have a few other essential engine tools. I need a good engine stand. the one I have is custom made for E-6's.. just rambling, jojo

there is 4 or 5 relays to the left side under the right fuse cover. I think one of them is the engine brake relay... I am not near a truck right now, so I cant pop the cover and look, sorry... jojo

So today I pulled the liners and re-checked the h-rings and found 3 more that were too high... It's been a billion years since I did an h-ring and now I have an engine that has 4 dislodged rings.. Go-figure??

I will check foe a link and seller name and get back to you. there was a few other books there too. I just left my local Mack dealer, I asked if they had any old books that they dont need, -no- was the answer... jojo

i forgot to ask.... manual trans, or Allison?