67RModel

I have to think the 4x4 is not original but I don't know. The budd hubs certainly don't look original and not sure if Mack offered all wheel drive then to the civilian market. I wonder what it was used for.....

Was just wondering in your quest for new tires if you put balance beads in the 4 new ones? Also, what's everyone's experience with these. I hear some guys swear by them and other say its a waste of money. Also, did you locate another 4 tires yet?

Man....a long hood road boss in that condition for $2500. Seems like a good bargain to me if you are into Whites. You just hardly ever see one with a long hood..... I paid a good bit more than that for mine with a short hood not too long ago although it has a title. I wonder what it has for power. If I didn't already have one I would be all over this one.

They are also listed on Ebay if you cant access the Facebook link.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/234628367726?hash=item36a0f0c56e:g:P7cAAOSwnsxi1PWR

I would really like to find a vintage/antique milk trailer pretty much identical to the first two @ff6cav posted. Would like to find one in decent shape enough to polish up and hitch to my 67 R model. Single or tandem axle. If anybody knows of any let me know.

Hunyady

I saw those on the auction house's website. Those trucks are perfect. The lowboy tractor is the nicest. I bet all that stuff sells for a lot more than you are thinking. With online bidding that stuff is available to anyone with an internet connection and the used market for trucks and equipment is still insane right now.

I am not subscribed to his channel and don't watch all his videos but have watched enough of them that whenever he posts a new one it comes up in my suggested area. I would say from what I have seen is that he is a super talented engine builder and insanely savvy with any electronic Cat engine. I am pretty impressed with how much abuse those old Detroit engines can take considering they are worn out by the time he gets his hands on them anyway.

Its the way of social media. Its all about how many clicks you can get. The guy has done this many times before and created a "brand/image" for himself and his YouTube channel. I suspect most of his subscribers relish in this kind of thing and are on the edge of their seats waiting for him to post the next video. A YouTube channel with that many subscribers, likes, and views probably easily nets somewhere in the neighborhood of $100,000/year. The more outrageous the content, the more views the more advertisements, the more money made......

There could be some validity to this because my E7 is factory 250hp. I don’t think there were any ratings lower than that for the E7. Either way I am going to do away with the whole setup while I’m installing a boost gauge….

No. Exhaust manifold is not part of the system. All it does is block the CAC outlet, which is the air cylinder in the lower left of the picture. And simultaneously open the bypass duct, which is the smaller one in the upper middle of the picture. The bypass duct is fed from the pipe coming off the turbo leading into the CAC. So in my mind it’s just pushing compressed air (warmer than ambient and warmer than going through CAC) straight into the engine to aid with starting? Kind of a novel idea I don’t know if it helps at all as I never really start this thing in cold temps and it’s stored in a heated garage anyway. It just seems to me to be a lot of nonsense for no benefit. Thoughts?

On my 1994 RD with EM7 there is this gadgetry. I am wondering if it’s really necessary. I have never really seen it on any other trucks newer or older and quite frankly I have never used it even when cold starting and the truck starts fine without using it. The thing is after sitting for any length of time the truck is out of air and can’t cycle the air cylinders anyway. Also, if you were to use it the cylinder on the bypass duct crossing over top of the engine won’t return to closed when it’s switched to “off”. You have to tap it closed after you turn it off. I just see it as a more leak paths for boost air to escape from or leak past the bypass valve. Can I eliminate the whole system? Should I? What’s everyone else’s experience with these? I’m just looking for any information out there on this setup…..

Yea the mega fleet trucks get a lot of hate for all the fairings, wheel covers, and other aerodynamic bits on them. If all that stuff allows a truck to achieve even just a 0.2 mpg increase it adds up tremendously over a year of team driving. Multiply that by a fleet of 500+ trucks and the fuel savings alone could be millions of dollars per year, and even more so than ever with the current pricing. Another thing that really helps is being disciplined about checking and keeping them up to 120 psi. There is a big difference in rolling resistance between fully inflated and one that is down 10-15 psi. I knows guys that never checked their tire pressure...just a kick during a pre trip.

Yes on MFG = Manufactured. Original engine gave up the ghost at some point and someone had that one laying around. Their problem was solved.

My '94 RD triaxle dump is a 250hp mechanical E7 with a T2070 trans and she is slow but insanely reliable and economical to run. I get my doors blow off by just about everything but I couldn't care less since I get paid hourly and don't have to work to make a payment.

Who really knows. Here we are talking about how the truck might or certainly will wipe out the transmission but it might not either. Something might give up before that. Like you said. Just run it as is until it needs fixed than have a plan already in place for when it does go.....

The engine is a 1974 model.....must have been swapped out somewhere along the line.

Yes they are torque monsters given their displacement but as you know low on horsepower so you wont be breaking any speed records and hills at highway speeds will slow you down noticeably. That is just the physics of moving 70-80,000 pounds with 235 horsepower. However, you can lug this engine down to around 1100 - 1200 rpm and let it pull there without any adverse affects.

Go to the truck shows and events area of this forum and click on the Macungie thread. Scroll down towards the bottom and there is a big picture otherdog posted of a real tricked out late model international owned by Tackaberry. Cliking on that picture takes you to otherdog's flickr album of Macungie 2022

Yea a good running triaxle for 10Gs it hard to complain about. However, I would verify the rear end ratio and install the proper TRXL107 6 speed transmission in it and go to work. Building that truck into what you are describing is honestly an exercise in futility. You would be so much further ahead to find one already set up that way and tweak it from there. You never did say if the trans was an Eaton or Mack 13 speed. I'm assuming Eaton. Like blackdog2 said if its the 12513 or even a little 9513 that 675 Maxidyne will shred it in short order if you are really working it.

Nice. What rear ratio? I think City Welding and Cobra Bodies merged around 2012 but may be defunct now? I think Cobra was from somewhere in Eastern Pennsylvania and City Welding was very close to where I'm from in New Castle, PA. Did you buy truck/bed new?

The gold dogs have been discussed / debated on here many times over the years. The short answer is gold dogs have had different meanings at different points in time. When the Maxidyne engine first came out (1965 or 66) a gold dog was an indication of Maxidyne power. Later on they meant all Mack powertrain (engine, trans, rears). In your case I would say the truck should have gold dogs on it since you meet both requirements. All Mack components and R685 indicates it would have a Maxidyne under the hood. I have no clue as to whether or not door emblems were an option or meant something else.

What are the specs on your CL? Looks like a beefy setup.....12R24.5 rubber on 58,000 rears.

My 0.02. Pretty much what Freightrain said. Not sure why you would need (or want) to have a Maxidyne make more than 300 horsepower. They just are not designed that way. The torque rise on these engines is incredible. Mack knew what they were doing when they made that engine and matched it to the extended range transmission and proper rears (which makes me think the 13 speed was added by someone later). Trucks with this power train and these specs just were not set up to run 300+ horsepower and an 18 speed transmission. Could it be done? Probably. But I think you would be further ahead to just find one already set up that way with an E6-350 4V or E7-350/400. If I was trying to achieve more than 350 horsepower I would definitely be looking for an E7.

I also heard that when the R model cam out there were a lot of left over B models sitting on dealer lots and Mack corporate authorized the dealers to switch some of the B models to R models by shipping them R model cabs and having the dealers change them. A letter "R" was stamped into the frame after the B model serial number. Any truth to this? The old timer who told me seemed pretty knowledgeable on the subject.....