67RModel

Be careful doing this. The 2090 and 2100 series have a 0.71 overdrive ratio. If your truck originally had a 6 speed lo hole transmission it almost certainly has a maxidyne engine and very slow rears (somewhere between 5.55 and 6.32:1, or even slower sometimes). With these rear ratios you need the 0.6:1 overdrive ratio to achieve a reasonable cruising speed. From what it sounds like you have 1:1 in top gear now so I guess 0.71 is "better", but still wont cruise as fast as it had before you swapped transmissions. Do you know what rear end ratio you have, what tire size, and what rpm your engine is governed at?

It looks like the pictures were taken in a French speaking area...possibly Quebec? Are you really located in West Pittsburg, PA?

Well then from this statement it sounds like the main box of the replacement transmission is not an overdrive unit. Although I'm not sure on this I guess the easiest fix would be to put your original main box back in and the replacement auxiliary transmission on the back of it? Just a though if there was never any real problems with the main box. Since you have your original transmission out and on the floor you could do some real basic testing by placing paint marks on the input and output shafts and see what the ratio is when you have the main in 5th and the auxiliary in direct. If 5th is indeed an overdrive and assuming its 0.6:1 you should get about 1.7 turns of the output shaft for every one revolution of the input shaft. In hind sight you should have done this once you got the old one out and before putting the new one in so you could make sure you had the same overall ratio......

I found this one on Facebook Marketplace. It says it is in West Pittsburg, PA which is about 45 miles north of Pittsburgh, PA but judging from the pictures I can guarantee they were not taken in West Pittsburg, PA let alone in this country so I assume its a scam but you never know.... https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/579188643301940/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post

Did you change the both transmissions or just the back box (auxiliary transmission)?

I always thought the back box was the auxiliary which is an underdrive and direct (1:1). The overdrive gear is the 5th gear in the main box. If you change the direct gear in the auxillary to something faster (numerically smaller) you will make all the 5 gears in the main box faster which I don't think you want. You need an overdrive gear probably 0.6:1 in the 5th hole on the main box. It sounds like the one you have is direct in 5th not overdrive.

I have noticed over the last year and a half that people spat off what seems to be large numbers and/or statistics but really fail to understand any perspective as to what they are saying. If you use March 1st, 2020 as the "start" of the pandemic, about 592 days have passed since then. Per the US CDC on average 8159 people die every single day from all causes of death. Some real quick 4th grade math will tell you that about 4,830,128 people have died since March 1st 2020. A little 5th or 6th grade math will tell you this 737,589 figure is about 15% of the total deaths since March 1st 2020. Its impossible to know how many of the 737,589 would have passed on during this timeframe had there never been Covid 19 but lets just infer 300,000 (since we know the overwhelming majority of deaths attributed to Covid19 are very elderly and/or already very ill people) so your number number now drops to 437,589 of actual Covid 19 deaths of individuals who would probably still be currently living had there not been Covid 19. The population of the USA is currently about 329,500,000. That same 5th or 6th grade math from before will tell you that 0.2% have died from Covid 19. Less than one quarter of one percent. Nevermind the fact the 737,589 figure is artificially inflated for numerous reasons. Hospitals were/are incentivized with government money to record the cause of death as Covid 19. The network of traveling nurses and healthcare workers setup and subsidized by the government early on were allocated to hospitals with higher Covid death rates. Testing early on was non existent or unreliable. Is Covid 19 real? It absolutely is 100% real, and it is more deadly than the seasonal flu to a very small portion of the population. Nobody is arguing about that at all. Nobody ever was. What people are arguing about is the complete and total unnecessary transformation in the way we conduct our lives. The complete and total disruption to the global economy and supply chain. The amount of debt and spending the government has unnecessarily taken on in the last 592 days (this to me me is the largest travesty of all). And finally, the draconian measures the government has continually rolled out to force its citizens' hands. If you dig further into the numbers and data to fully understand what has actually happened in the last 592 days you will most likely be amazed. The effects of these decisions are far reaching and very long lasting and in the end will most likely have a net negative benefit to the world. Have a nice day.

If it was some type of specialty truck with very unique specs or had a type of body that was "rare" or difficult to replace I would be more inclined to agree it is worth it. It sounds like it is a garden variety triaxle dump truck in which case it can't be economically "worth it" to rerail, overhaul engine, and replace the dump body vs buying a similar, fully depreciated, turnkey unit. If your objective is nostalgia, hobby, or some other reason that is not economics then yes it could be "worth it". If you had other truck(s) to run and eliminate the downtime you would have while rebuilding the truck it could also be worth it in that scenario as well.

Looks like a late 1940s Diamond T to me.

Probably not worth it. You can find those trucks all day long with good frame rails and beds for anywhere from $20k to $35k. Granted they probably wont have the same drivetrain specs as yours, however, you could keep yours as a parts truck. You could buy a turn key truck with similar specs and just start running it. Reframing a truck and having a new/used bed put on it can't cost less than $25k if you are paying a shop to do it plus you will be missing out on several weeks worth of revenue. Additionally you then have to rebuild the engine. I would find a solid used truck that suits your needs and go that route. And have your current engine rebuilt as a spare. And hang onto your current rears and transmission as good parts.

Any manufacturer's truck can be set up to be "the toughest truck on the market". Its all about correct specifications for the task. You could in theory spec a Granite so poorly it would give you as much trouble as the Cascadias you are referring to. In turn, you also can't take 8 Freightliner Cascadias off the interstate, which are set up for maximum fuel economy, throw them into a muddy field and expect them to hold up to that abuse.

Where are you located? I have a parts DM 800 and a parts DM600 for sale: https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/65212-mack-steel-dash-dm600-dm800/

I am running a fully mechanical EM7 in a 1994 RD690 dump truck. It is a bone stock, one owner (before me), all original unit with 335,000 miles and 11,500 hours on the clock. It has some type of miss while under light throttle input from 1100 - 1300 rpm. For instance, if you are slowing down to make a turn, downshift, and your rpms fall within that range and you apply light throttle to maintain that speed/rpm it will make and audible missing sound. If you lift completely out of the throttle and let the trucks momentum carry itself it will go away. If you apply more throttle (say half or more) it will accelerate and go away around 1300 rpm. If the truck is on a downgrade or coasting in that rpm range under its own momentum with no throttle input at all it will not happen. It only happens when the throttle is lightly depressed in that certain rpm range. Any idea what it could be or tips on how to troubleshoot it. It appears the pump has never been apart as it and the timing gear cover still have the security wires and pressed lead fasteners still intact. Its drivable as is but annoying and obviously not right. For reference this is an EM7, 250 horsepower, governed at 1750rpm. Thanks in advance.

I would get the engine serial number and CPL (critical parts list) number and call a Cummins distributor. They probably have one on their shelf. The Cummins distributor by me is Bridgeway Cummins. If you have those two numbers off your engine they can get you anything for it. Very similar to Caterpillar's parts network.

I always thought this was the case. I think the trucks with maxidynes that have the econodyne badge on the hood are governed at 1750 rpm. From the beginning the maxidynes were 2100 rpm engines. Somewhere along the line some of them were governed at 1750rpm to save fuel and reduce driver fatigue by cruising at 1750 instead of 2100. My 1994 RD690 has a fully mechanical EM7-250 under the hood but it is governed at 1750rpm. It has a silver bulldog on the hood and no econodyne badging though.

I have always wondered about this. I feel like if I were to go to Australia I would not be able to drive a manual transmission. It seems so ridiculously nuts to have to shift with my left hand since I am right handed. I don't know if I have that coordination. I guess it would be the same concept for leftys pretty much everywhere else that drive manual transmissions. I guess you just get used to it?

No I jacked the pinion up with a floor jack and just rolled the whole assembly forward by hand. I had to cage the spring chambers to release the emergency brakes but once released the whole axle assembly will roll very easily on a level concrete floor. Yes air lines can easily be shortened. If they are the new style plastic material you can simply cut them, install an new ferrule, and reinstall them into the fitting and tighten. Mine were still the original flared copper tubing. I just ended up replacing mine with all new materials and fittings since the copper was covered in hardened grease and 3 different colors of paint.

Shortening the wheelbase and driveline is a generally fairly simple project. Especially something with leaf spring rear suspension. I shortened my R model from 207" to 165" wheelbase with just basic tools last spring when I was forced to stay home for covid19 lockdown. Took about three days of work to complete but I took my time and was methodical about it. Pretty much all I needed was a 1/2" breaker bar with a 15/16" socket, 15/16" wrench, 1/2" drill, 5/8" drill bit, a tape measure, sledge hammer, and a lot of muscle. The driveshaft can be shortened by a driveline shop fairly easily and quickly once you get the rear axle bolted back in to its new location, and a final measurement. I think the shop charged me somewhere around $150 to shorten and rebalance my driveshaft. I wouldn't hesitate for a minute if all a truck needed was some wheelbase removed to be what you wanted....Attached are some of the pictures of when I shortened mine. Very doable project.

Here is another single axle diesel B model that is not rusty for sale on Ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/203543149764?hash=item2f641dfcc4:g:9i8AAOSwWo1hBgw8

Yes. You can buy remanufactured compressors so they can obviously be rebuilt, however I'm not certain if you can buy a parts kit to do it yourself. I'm guessing most likely but someone else on here will know for sure.

Yes the air compressors are pressure lubricated by engine oil. They also generally have a coolant line going to them too for cooling.

Here is another fairly close to me. Near Youngstown, OH. They are literally all over if you look....

4 in Scranton PA.......

I always see at least 2 or 3 for sale on Facebook Marketplace whenever I look. Granted they are not always close to me but they are definitely out there. Look on the ATHS backlot classified listings as well. Always at least one for sale on there as well. Below is a very nice one in Uniontown Ohio.....There are 2 or three very close to me on Marketplace but they are project trucks requiring considerable investment..

Yes. When you pull the pump away that machined/keyed coupler will fall out. Once you see it you will understand. It only goes back together one way. Just don't spin the engine while the pump is off.