67RModel

Yes I would go back and make sure what you are saying is actually happening because its very backwards. When you press in your red button on the dash a flow of air will pass through the red emergency line hooked to the trailer and release the spring brakes on the trailer as well as fill any onboard air tanks the trailer may have. Once the red button is pressed on the dash air should only pass through the blue hose when the foot valve is depressed or the trailer brake valve (trolley valve) is used. If what you say is in fact happening then I guess the two places to look would be the air supply valve (red and yellow buttons) or perhaps the tractor protection valve. I cant understand how that would be happening unless somebody put a new set of hoses on the truck and switched them but then if you had them hooked up to the same color glad hands on the trailer the spring brakes on the trailer would have never released.....Something ain't right here......

Plus with 400 hp it probably wont slow down much on gradual hills once up to speed. Meaning once you are cruising at top speed you will probably only ever have to downshift to 7th (direct) to maintain your speed.

I suspect it will pull like a freight train out of the hole and accelerating. Startability on steep hills loaded heavy will be of little concern with those slow rears and the two low gears in an 8LL. Your top speed will be slow though with rears like that. on 11R24.5 rubber it will probably be around 57-60 mph top speed. My RD with 6.06 rears and T2070 (0.6 OD ratio) tops out at 62 mph on 11R24.5s. An Eaton 8LL has a 0.71 overdrive so it will be slower plus your rears are slower. Without doing the math I would say somewhere from 55-60 mph at 1800 engine rpms. If you have small tires wit will be even slower...

I travelled to rural Southwest Virginia this past weekend to pick up a sleeper I need for a future project. The gentleman selling it ended up have a pretty extensive collection of old Mack parts and some trucks. He was in business from the 60s up until 1998 and saved everything. He has trailers full of parts. Lots of differentials and carriers, transmissions, engines, etc. I also saw several camelback complete cutoffs laying around. As far as trucks he has two complete mid 80s R model tractors and a complete B61 single axle tractor with concave cab and a late 40s or early 1950s (guessing) White Super Power tractor. Also lots of other trucks, tractors, and just general "stuff" laying around and its all for sale. I don't want to publish his information directly on the internet but if anyone is interested in reaching out to him PM me and I can pass along his contact information. Newport, VA just west of Blacksburg.

I'm not really up on my Mack 12 speed knowledge. I know there were several versions of this transmission produced. What exactly is a TRTXL 1070B? How does it differ from T-1070, T-1070B, TRTXL-107, or TRTXL-1070? I know what they are but just not the differences in each model. I drove an Eaton Super 10 for a while and understand them to be the same principle except for a deep reduction for gears 1 & 2. I might be interested in this transmission to have on hand for a future project.

The answer to that question is easy to answer in Pennsylvania because Independents / No Affiliation cannot vote in primaries and Republicans can only vote for Republicans......their man here for Governor is super Trumpy and is essentially a QAnon person. He also stormed the Capital on January 6th, 2020. Its nuts this guy is on the ballot. Agreed.

Super old thread but 2019 film "The Irishman" had a nice B model freight truck in it. Robert De Niro drives it to deliver a load of weapons to E. Howard Hunt for the Bay of Pigs invasion.

^^^^^This. I can't believe that the Republican primary selected Dr. Oz as their candidate. If Dave McCormick would have won the primary this wouldn't even be a contest at this point. To many people don't believe Oz is genuine for many reasons. Its sad the guy was born and raised in Cleveland OH, lived summers in Turkey, lived and worked in New York City until his TV career started in 2009. Then lived in Southern California until now he all of a sudden is the best person they could come up with to represent PA in the US Senate. To be fair he did live in Philadelphia for a time in the mid 1980s while as a student attending the University of Pennsylvania. Unfortunately he is just a big of a quack as Fetterman. He is just wearing different rags. The governor's race is just as bad. Can't believe the Republicans came up with this guy. I will bet my lunch and this week's pay the Governor will remain a democrat because their candidate is very moderate and appeals to lots of people on the right. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

$2163 is equivalent to $19,815 today. I pretty positive there is no possible way to buy a brand new regular cab, long bed, 2wd, base model, base engine, half ton truck for less than $35,000 today. Its nuts......

I would change the color to resemble the one pictured below. Something about the maroon and silver (I think the valve cover is gray now) just seems off. I have no clue about the mechanical design or features of the engine as the newest diesel engine I own is a 1994. The one MP8 I did drive ran and pulled like a freight train compared to any Etech, AI, or AC I was ever in with similar specs. Serious question: are the MP8 and Volvo D13 mechanically identical engines? How much different really is the software programming?

Yea whoever this person was seemed to have a soft sport for Diamond T trucks. Or they were very popular in that area for whatever reason and he ended up with all of them. I'm not sure if you read the fine print auction details but it says you can store your items there free of charge for up to a year if that helps you out at all. Maybe you could find some time in the coming year to just go out and pick them up?

Reminds me of when I got started into trucking on my own with my own equipment. I resurrected an old 1994 Volvo (WhiteGMC) with a series 60 Detroit. I got it set up to pull pneumatic trailers of frac sand into the Marcellus wells. The previous owner had the engine overhauled some 5-7 years before and parked it. It had like 50 miles on the overhaul from a reputable shop. The rest of the truck was pretty worn out but useable. I got started easy enough with a few small hiccups but nothing major. Probably around the fifth day of running it developed a miss after I had just unloaded and got sent for load #2. Foolish (inexperienced) me went and got that second load and came off the scale at 88,000 pounds. A lot of those sand yards were run by cowboys and would let you leave overweight if they overfilled you especially if you were working the night shift. It was about 30 miles back and every mile it was running worse and worse and the oil pressure was falling. Unfortunately the last 10 miles before my exit was a one lane construction zone with jersey barriers on each side with nowhere to pull over. Engine shutdown light came on. I was able to use the Override button to get far enough to crest the last hill before the exit. Coasted the rest of the way to the off ramp and it shut down down for good. Crankcase was way overfull. I was in a good enough spot that I didn't need to get towed immediately. Spent the night there broke down not knowing exactly what was wrong or how I was going to fix it or if it was even fixable at that point. Got a tow from a friend the next morning back to the shop that did the overhaul. Ended up being the #5 injector malfunctioned and was dumping fuel into the cylinder and getting past the rings into the oil. I dropped the pan and looked into all the liner bores with a flashlight and didn't see any scoring. Filtered the oil/fuel mixture with a sieve and found no metal particles or chunks. I put the pan back on with a new gasket, replaced the bad injector, and went back to work. It gave me another year and a half of trouble free operation. The owner of the shop that overhauled it ended up buying the truck off of me and he put that engine into one of his trucks. To my knowledge its still running like a sewing machine to this day. When I was in that situation that night I fully expected the worst and thought I was finished 5 days after I started. Ended up only costing me a few days of work, a $300 injector, an oil pan gasket and oil. I realize luck was on my side that day and probably should have ended much worse considering how far I drove it with the bad injector. I guess the moral of the story is it doesn't always have to end badly. Hopefully this is one of those times......Below is a picture of the next day when I got towed home. I remember it pretty vividly and just how sick I felt..... I had just eaten breakfast at Bob Evans and was walking back to my broke down truck.....memories lol.

I think they were a lot more pricey than we think. I remember a guy saying his W900 with bunk in the early 1970s was around $70,000. I bet this B873 in the early sixties was well over $50,000 especially since it has a vendor engine. My official guess is $52,000.

I don't know about Canada but in the US from my understanding it actually means nothing. Its something people do to advertise a typically commercial type truck/combination is being used for personal use (not for commerce). If you have an antique plate and registration I don't think its necessary. If you have regular truck plates and registration and are using the truck to haul weight (cargo) for your personal use I guess it would be wise to have it on your door. I think either way you can get stopped and checked though. You will have some more explaining to do though if you have it in lieu of DOT/MC numbers. Johnny Law could not believe that you are not engaged in commerce and then you would have to prove it I guess.

What is a 300 Plus engine? I am foggy between the ENDT676 and the E7. I hear this term all the time but don't really know what it is? Was it an E6? A Maxidyne? I know the ENDT676 was a Maxidyne with the tip turbine charge air cooler. Was the 300 plus a fueled up version of this engine or a 2V E6 with more than 300 horsepower? Why didn't they just call it by the amount of horsepower it had....presumably 310-325? Thanks for any answers

I have 8 matching Bridgestone 1200R24 L317 radial tube type tires for sale. All are mounted to good rust free rims that have been painted. Six are used with about 80% or better tread left and 2 are brand new and have never been used. Stickers is still on them. They are are from 2006 but have been stored inside since then. No dry rot or weather cracking. I would like to sell all 8 wheels and tires together if possible. Pittsburgh, PA area. PM if interested.

If you find a tandem truck and want to make it a short single axle I would say its fairly easy. You will need to find a single axle rear end with leaf springs with the proper gear ratio for a gas engine (I think a B42 is a gasser). I think @Mean Greenhas one he is willing to donate to a good home. Like others have said a tandem will most certainly have a camelback suspension and using one the tandem axles isn't really feasible. As far as installing the the new single axle onto the frame I would say its a straight forward process if the rear end you get has the leaf springs and hangers still attached. I shortened my R model from 207" to 165" wheelbase with just basic tools when I was forced to stay home for covid19 lockdown. Took about three days of work to complete but I took my time and was methodical about it. Pretty much all I needed was a 1/2" breaker bar with a 15/16" socket, 15/16" wrench, 1/2" drill, a premium quality Cobalt 5/8" drill bit, a tape measure, sledge hammer, and a lot of muscle. I was able to shorten my existing driveshaft. I think the shop charged me somewhere around $150 to shorten and rebalance my driveshaft. You may need to get a new driveshaft made if the yokes are not the same on between the two different axle setups. Not really a big deal though. Attached are some of the pictures of when I shortened mine. Very doable project. IMG_2218.thumb.JPG.d7a3ddd174da412e29a9220f8a8142c1.jfif IMG_2223.thumb.JPG.a81b9cb40800122b8d6882caa8d4673a.jfif IMG_2224.thumb.JPG.bd76e86dfa69ba31639d6eced30c7869.jfif IMG_2244.thumb.JPG.be4a5464f06fe84c009c64a71c17c5a5.jfif

I suspect if adding more fuel and twin turboing an E6 was any bit advantageous then Mack engineers would have made such an engine 40 years ago. I get you want to experiment but it seems futile as you already know how its going to end. An 89 would be a 4V E6, which is a very desirable engine in my opinion and not worth destroying. To each their own I guess. As for building an E7 with 550 horsepower you are pretty much negating the two hallmarks of the Mack E7: reliability and fuel efficiency. An E7 with over 450 horse is nuts IMO. Depending on how often you are are using 550 hp you will have trouble keeping it cool and quite frankly in one piece.....

Finally got around to fixing my dash lights. They are all wired through the dimmer rheostat. If your dash lights stop working it’s most likely your dimmer unit. Very easy fix. Below is a picture of the Mack (Volvo) part number you will need.

Renault bought a 10% stake in Mack as far back as 1979 and then increased their ownership to 40% by 1983. Then in 1990 Mack became a wholly owned subsidiary f Renault.

I'm wondering if Western Star engineering said it was required to keep the frame from flexing when loaded. Its quite a long span between axle sets for 220,000 pounds of gross weight triple frame rails or not...

Its like the Kwic Loc that Overnite used for a period......Kind of a neat video.

I always wondered why the mega carrier fleet trucks that never leave the interstate have live tandems. I would think a single axle with a drop axle is adequate to move legal weights across the interstate. Plus and you probably get 750-1000 pounds of weight savings and better fuel mileage due to less unsprung weight and rotational inertia of the second drive axle and power divider.

That is a tough question to answer without any background information. If your goal with this truck is hobby/restoration then I see no need to change it. Personally I like all my antique/hobby trucks to be as original as possible and there is absolutely nothing "wrong" with positive ground. As stated previously it is actually a much more robust and theoretically better for a vehicle's electrical system. If your intentions are to use the truck in some capacity that will require the use of more modern electrical components for body upfitting, signaling, etc.; or you are doing a restoration and want to add modern accessories, then it would probably be wise to switch it to negative ground. If the truck is original the switch should be fairly simple as the a truck of that vintage would be pretty basic electrically speaking. The biggest thing is the starter. If its a Delco Remy 40MT or 50MT then it is a series wound motor and changing the polarity will have no effect on its direction of rotation. If for some reason it the starter is "something else" that has permanent magnets for the field then it will change rotation by switching the polarity. I guess it all just depends on what you are trying to accomplish and what you are comfortable with....Hope this helps.

I could be wrong but I don't think you need to change the hubs. You just need to get rims for tubeless/radial tires. There have been a lot of forum threads on this subject over the years. I have a set of 8 brand new 12.00x24 deep lug tires I need to get rid of and would sell......Pittsburgh, PA area.