67RModel

I think when I did mine I just disconnected that line from the compressor first and aimed it into a large catch pan and let it drain out that way until it stopped. Then disconnected the hose from the side of the block. It took a few minutes but this way I didn't have to drain out any more than I needed to. This was on a 94 RD. If I remember right the radiator drain / lower hose is still a good bit lower than where that hose runs into the block. Either way will work though.

Ok. That makes sense. Thanks for the info.

I stumbled upon an old 24 page thread in the "other truck makes" about a GMC General truck. Its a great read if you have time to sit down and follow the whole 24 page story. Anyway, I couldn't help but notice how many really active forum members there were then (2014-2017). I noticed there were a ton of "BMT Lifetime" members and "BMT Benefactor" members that just are not here anymore. If you look at their profiles it seems like most of them disappeared in 2019 or early 2020. I came on board in early to mid 2020. Any idea what happened to all these guys? Thanks.

If you scroll to the bottom of the article there are like almost 6,000 comments. A lot of them are pure gold. What a clown this Sam Brinton is. Biden put this deranged clown in charge of spent nuclear fuel for the whole country. 🤦‍♂️

A real wrist snapper if you ain't paying attention.

Quick question: Is a Dynatard the exact same mechanical principle as a Jacob's compression brake with Mack's name on it? I have heard from several guys that they aren't as "good" as a Jake? I never asked what they meant by this. Reliability? Cost? Braking Power? what are the differences if any? Thanks.

Aren't Miller 211s DVI? If so its nice to be able to run of 120 or 240 Volt power incase you have to pack it up and take somewhere there is only 120V outlets. I know it limits your amperage but its better than nothing I guess.

Another tip / hack I think most people know but if not is you can use aluminum foil to "mask" off large irregular objects or objects tape won't stick too like hoses, wires, or oil covered reservoirs. It works the best for hoses. Saves a ton of time too.

One thing to think about if you swap your green cab onto the tandem dump chassis is the brakes. Looks like you have BW type 20 brake chambers on your drives. I believe the part number is 227851. As you probably already know they are just service chambers with no provisions for spring / emergency brakes. I assume this truck has a hand brake lever in the cab and a brake drum assembly on the output yoke of the transmission for parking. The service chambers you have are long obsolete and finding rebuild parts / replacements for them is very hard. The other bad thing about this setup is the fact that you can't just stick a 30/30 chamber or similar on there with some additional air plumbing and call it good. The clearance to the wheel is too tight. The mounting hole center-to-center is the same but the overall diameter and length are issues. A 20/24 chamber won't even fit. I have the same setup on my B81. I pondered this a lot and tried several different types and sizes of brake chambers. Basically your only two options are to 1: fabricate brackets that offset the chamber toward the frame to gain clearance from the wheel and use an offset slack adjusters. Or 2: obtain a pull style spring brake only chamber and mount it 180 degrees of the service chamber to pull on the slack adjuster with a small chain. I have seen several old (mid sixties) DM800s with this setup from the factory although they used steel rods instead of chain. I guess it was before the compound chambers were perfected and/or common. Haldex still makes pull type spring brake chambers but they are insanely expensive (around $400 each). I don't think you necessarily have to change them over since I'm guessing it will be just for hobby use / antique vehicle but for me the thought of a 15,000 pound vehicle rolling down the road with no way to stop it if there is a sudden air loss is scary. The good news is for a hobby truck you probably only need to convert one axle to have emergency brakes since you won't be hauling any weight. Just something to think about if you use the tandem chassis.....

Also, the original Maxidyne trucks from say 1966-1972 have two as well. However, the lower one is open ended under the hood. I assume so the intake air stream is partially warm. These trucks didn't have charge air coolers so I don't know why they did that but they did......

Darn. I gave away a good FRO15210B a few months ago when I was cleaning out my garage. I had it in there for years and nobody wanted it. I think the guy just turned it in as a core. He had a deal with Weller I think that if he gave them two 9 or 10 speed cores they would sell him an overhauled 13 speed. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I did not see this until just now. I will check in a day or two and let you know. $2000 for everything.

I don’t know if it’s like this all over Pennsylvania but in my area/district there is a program if you get a DUI or something like that the local magistrate(s) will order you to serve community service with PennDOT. From what I have heard and seen it amounts to riding around in the back of a crew cab pickup all day and sleeping. I see people all the time sleeping in the back seat of these PennDOT rigs around me.

I put this up in Craig's other thread about if a 350 Cummins would fit under the hood of a B42. I have this R model with a super healthy 237, 6 speed lo hole trans and Mack rears if someone needs a powertrain. Truck is crusty but the powertrain components are great. And it has jakes on it. $2500 in Pittsburgh, PA.

Yes runs and drives like a sewing machine. Has not been on the road in years but used as a yard tractor for a long time. Frame is crusty but the engine, trans, and rears are in great shape. Would be great for somebody that needs a good powertrain. $2500

I still have this 1972 R model for sale. It has a 237 with jake brakes and a twin stick 6 speed if you are interested. I don't need a lot of money for it. I'm also in the Pittsburgh PA area.

I found the Kijiji Canada listing for it: https://www.kijiji.ca/v-heavy-trucks/markham-york-region/1955-mack-for-sale/1636962965 It has a v12 Cummins engine, 8 speed transmission, and a 50:1 auxiliary transmission.

Did you buy it off the original author of this thread? jakebrake86? It looks like he has not been around since 2017.....

Like Paul said if you buy one you are essentially paying too much since it really has "no value" other than whatever its worth to you. You will be buying it for a hobby and most likely it will not make you money since it wont be a working truck. Every step of the way after you take ownership of it will cost you money (lots of it). Parts are getting harder to find every day and more costly. 1986 was 36 years ago and $700 then is right around $2000 today. Also, in 1986 there were probably tens of thousands more B models then there are today with a lot of them still working. Today the ones that are left are going to bring more money due to their relative scarcity. That's just the way of the world.

I know from watching old promotional films Autocars were 100% hand build and assembled back when they were an independent company. Every hole in the frame was drilled instead of punched, etc. Then White purchased them and like most corporate mergers and acquisitions it was a race to the bottom in the name of stock price and favorable quarterly reports. By the mid 1970s they were just rebadged Whites then Volvos.

Yes I would go back and make sure what you are saying is actually happening because its very backwards. When you press in your red button on the dash a flow of air will pass through the red emergency line hooked to the trailer and release the spring brakes on the trailer as well as fill any onboard air tanks the trailer may have. Once the red button is pressed on the dash air should only pass through the blue hose when the foot valve is depressed or the trailer brake valve (trolley valve) is used. If what you say is in fact happening then I guess the two places to look would be the air supply valve (red and yellow buttons) or perhaps the tractor protection valve. I cant understand how that would be happening unless somebody put a new set of hoses on the truck and switched them but then if you had them hooked up to the same color glad hands on the trailer the spring brakes on the trailer would have never released.....Something ain't right here......

Plus with 400 hp it probably wont slow down much on gradual hills once up to speed. Meaning once you are cruising at top speed you will probably only ever have to downshift to 7th (direct) to maintain your speed.

I suspect it will pull like a freight train out of the hole and accelerating. Startability on steep hills loaded heavy will be of little concern with those slow rears and the two low gears in an 8LL. Your top speed will be slow though with rears like that. on 11R24.5 rubber it will probably be around 57-60 mph top speed. My RD with 6.06 rears and T2070 (0.6 OD ratio) tops out at 62 mph on 11R24.5s. An Eaton 8LL has a 0.71 overdrive so it will be slower plus your rears are slower. Without doing the math I would say somewhere from 55-60 mph at 1800 engine rpms. If you have small tires wit will be even slower...

I travelled to rural Southwest Virginia this past weekend to pick up a sleeper I need for a future project. The gentleman selling it ended up have a pretty extensive collection of old Mack parts and some trucks. He was in business from the 60s up until 1998 and saved everything. He has trailers full of parts. Lots of differentials and carriers, transmissions, engines, etc. I also saw several camelback complete cutoffs laying around. As far as trucks he has two complete mid 80s R model tractors and a complete B61 single axle tractor with concave cab and a late 40s or early 1950s (guessing) White Super Power tractor. Also lots of other trucks, tractors, and just general "stuff" laying around and its all for sale. I don't want to publish his information directly on the internet but if anyone is interested in reaching out to him PM me and I can pass along his contact information. Newport, VA just west of Blacksburg.

I'm not really up on my Mack 12 speed knowledge. I know there were several versions of this transmission produced. What exactly is a TRTXL 1070B? How does it differ from T-1070, T-1070B, TRTXL-107, or TRTXL-1070? I know what they are but just not the differences in each model. I drove an Eaton Super 10 for a while and understand them to be the same principle except for a deep reduction for gears 1 & 2. I might be interested in this transmission to have on hand for a future project.