67RModel

From my observation, studying of history, and knowledge of economics this is the problem with the American system and the status quo in this country. Employers refusal to pay a living wage and/or provide benefits except for semi skilled and above jobs and even then the benefits are most times very lacking. $14.80/hr on a 40 hour work week is a little less than $30,000 pre tax dollars. Literal poverty wages regardless of your location within the country. So your only option is to work 60+ hrs/week to make ends meet. I was in a barber shop recently and listening to an old timer say how he couldn't understand how McDonalds and such couldn't get enough workers even at the $15.00/hr they are now offering. He went on to say that he only made $2.75/hr washing dishes at a restaurant in 1970-71. I didn't join his conversation but quietly pulled out my phone and checked an inflation calculator. $2.75 in 1970 is equivalent to $21.00 today. Good luck finding that wage for an entry level job that requires zero skill in todays world. Benefits are the same story. Hollowed out an stolen over the years so more profits are funneled to the top. It's actually rather comical (and sad) to me your healthcare is somehow coupled to your level and/or status of employment in the US. The richest county on earth can't figure out how to provide healthcare as a condition of citizenship. Every other industrialized and developed country got it decades ago. I often wonder how different the small business landscape would look if healthcare here wasn't such a burden to obtain and/or pay for. Pretty tough to quit your job and start your own gig while always worrying you could get hurt and how you might pay for medical bills or an insane insurance premium. If you have a family it only gets worse. I checked what it would cost me out of pocket per year to buy the exact same health insurance my employer provides my family and I. I forget the exact amount but it was somewhere around $24,000....nuts. Good luck on your job search Joey. I hope you find something that pays you well enough while still giving you time to play with Mack trucks. ( and contributing on BMT).

I was just wondering since it was determined to be diesel fueling alone that caused the runaway can the engine overspeed on diesel fuel alone? Can the pump/injector lines supply enough fuel to kill the engine by themselves? Typically a runaway is from an unrestrained lube oil supply in addition to diesel fuel. Just wondering how much more the pump and injectors/lines can give beyond wide open throttle. I don't know just asking.....

Is Bristol Donald still in business? I see their beds a good bit on older Jersey and New England spec trucks (super heavy tandems) that come up for sale. Can't say that I have seen any newer trucks with one of their beds on it. The triple scope hoist is unmistakable.

Man where to start.....I guess it depends if you run local or over the road. If your mechanic opens up the pump and finds the problem in there just have the pump overhauled (this needs done regardless if you overhaul the engine or not) and then put it back on. Fire it up and see how it idles/responds on a few bobtail miles. If that checks out try a loaded run locally (if possible) and go from there. Its not a lot of work to pull the pump and reinstall it just to see. You might get lucky and get another 150,000 miles out of it. Plus if your local you can probably more easily absorb a breakdown / tow bill if it gives up on you. I'm sure there will be a bunch of others that come along and give some advice on some mechanical things to check for in order to determine if an overhaul is in the cards now. I'm just thinking in logistical and economics here.....

Translation to English: I hope you can help me. I have a MACK vision. It just lights up with ether, after that it still works normally. But if I turn it off and on immediately, it doesn't turn on. I checked computer fuse, flywheel resistance sensor, camshaft resistance sensors and all is ok. Does not activate any codes. Thanks for everything. God bless you.

A 2006 is an ASET engine. From my experience running stock AI versions (internally cooled egr) they have zero lugging ability and almost no "pulling ability" (torque) below say 1300 rpm. When loaded you almost have to wind them up to 2100 rpm so you can catch the next gear above 1300-1400. Otherwise your foot is trying to push through the floor of the cab and seemingly nothing is happening for a really long time. Any type of hilly or mountainous terrain obviously compounds the problem. IMO not really Mack's (Volvo by that point) finest hour and really an undesirable engine. Although the AI versions were pretty reliable for the time of early emissions regulations. Who knows what the "programmer" did to this one though. Always a crapshoot with that.......

I have to think the 4x4 is not original but I don't know. The budd hubs certainly don't look original and not sure if Mack offered all wheel drive then to the civilian market. I wonder what it was used for.....

Was just wondering in your quest for new tires if you put balance beads in the 4 new ones? Also, what's everyone's experience with these. I hear some guys swear by them and other say its a waste of money. Also, did you locate another 4 tires yet?

Man....a long hood road boss in that condition for $2500. Seems like a good bargain to me if you are into Whites. You just hardly ever see one with a long hood..... I paid a good bit more than that for mine with a short hood not too long ago although it has a title. I wonder what it has for power. If I didn't already have one I would be all over this one.

They are also listed on Ebay if you cant access the Facebook link.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/234628367726?hash=item36a0f0c56e:g:P7cAAOSwnsxi1PWR

I would really like to find a vintage/antique milk trailer pretty much identical to the first two @ff6cav posted. Would like to find one in decent shape enough to polish up and hitch to my 67 R model. Single or tandem axle. If anybody knows of any let me know.

Hunyady

I saw those on the auction house's website. Those trucks are perfect. The lowboy tractor is the nicest. I bet all that stuff sells for a lot more than you are thinking. With online bidding that stuff is available to anyone with an internet connection and the used market for trucks and equipment is still insane right now.

I am not subscribed to his channel and don't watch all his videos but have watched enough of them that whenever he posts a new one it comes up in my suggested area. I would say from what I have seen is that he is a super talented engine builder and insanely savvy with any electronic Cat engine. I am pretty impressed with how much abuse those old Detroit engines can take considering they are worn out by the time he gets his hands on them anyway.

Its the way of social media. Its all about how many clicks you can get. The guy has done this many times before and created a "brand/image" for himself and his YouTube channel. I suspect most of his subscribers relish in this kind of thing and are on the edge of their seats waiting for him to post the next video. A YouTube channel with that many subscribers, likes, and views probably easily nets somewhere in the neighborhood of $100,000/year. The more outrageous the content, the more views the more advertisements, the more money made......

There could be some validity to this because my E7 is factory 250hp. I don’t think there were any ratings lower than that for the E7. Either way I am going to do away with the whole setup while I’m installing a boost gauge….

No. Exhaust manifold is not part of the system. All it does is block the CAC outlet, which is the air cylinder in the lower left of the picture. And simultaneously open the bypass duct, which is the smaller one in the upper middle of the picture. The bypass duct is fed from the pipe coming off the turbo leading into the CAC. So in my mind it’s just pushing compressed air (warmer than ambient and warmer than going through CAC) straight into the engine to aid with starting? Kind of a novel idea I don’t know if it helps at all as I never really start this thing in cold temps and it’s stored in a heated garage anyway. It just seems to me to be a lot of nonsense for no benefit. Thoughts?

On my 1994 RD with EM7 there is this gadgetry. I am wondering if it’s really necessary. I have never really seen it on any other trucks newer or older and quite frankly I have never used it even when cold starting and the truck starts fine without using it. The thing is after sitting for any length of time the truck is out of air and can’t cycle the air cylinders anyway. Also, if you were to use it the cylinder on the bypass duct crossing over top of the engine won’t return to closed when it’s switched to “off”. You have to tap it closed after you turn it off. I just see it as a more leak paths for boost air to escape from or leak past the bypass valve. Can I eliminate the whole system? Should I? What’s everyone else’s experience with these? I’m just looking for any information out there on this setup…..

Yea the mega fleet trucks get a lot of hate for all the fairings, wheel covers, and other aerodynamic bits on them. If all that stuff allows a truck to achieve even just a 0.2 mpg increase it adds up tremendously over a year of team driving. Multiply that by a fleet of 500+ trucks and the fuel savings alone could be millions of dollars per year, and even more so than ever with the current pricing. Another thing that really helps is being disciplined about checking and keeping them up to 120 psi. There is a big difference in rolling resistance between fully inflated and one that is down 10-15 psi. I knows guys that never checked their tire pressure...just a kick during a pre trip.

Yes on MFG = Manufactured. Original engine gave up the ghost at some point and someone had that one laying around. Their problem was solved.

My '94 RD triaxle dump is a 250hp mechanical E7 with a T2070 trans and she is slow but insanely reliable and economical to run. I get my doors blow off by just about everything but I couldn't care less since I get paid hourly and don't have to work to make a payment.

Who really knows. Here we are talking about how the truck might or certainly will wipe out the transmission but it might not either. Something might give up before that. Like you said. Just run it as is until it needs fixed than have a plan already in place for when it does go.....

The engine is a 1974 model.....must have been swapped out somewhere along the line.

Yes they are torque monsters given their displacement but as you know low on horsepower so you wont be breaking any speed records and hills at highway speeds will slow you down noticeably. That is just the physics of moving 70-80,000 pounds with 235 horsepower. However, you can lug this engine down to around 1100 - 1200 rpm and let it pull there without any adverse affects.

Go to the truck shows and events area of this forum and click on the Macungie thread. Scroll down towards the bottom and there is a big picture otherdog posted of a real tricked out late model international owned by Tackaberry. Cliking on that picture takes you to otherdog's flickr album of Macungie 2022