67RModel

I checked. This engine is a vmac engine. It has the wiring harness going to the injection pump.

Since he is retrofitting a truck that never had a heated windshield where would be a good place to pull key on 12V from to run to the switch? I would think you would want it to shut off with the key incase you forget to flip the switch off. He said he did not include a timer. I am not familiar with the Granite electrical system.

I have always heard the solution to this is a combination charging station / parking meter unit. It kind of makes sense I guess. you have to pay to charge your Duracell car so it will have the capability to accept payments for just parking in front of it. I think the thought is to charge a heavily elevated fee for just parking to keep gas burners from using these spots. I don't know....cant say I agree one way or another its just what I have heard from proponents of Duracell cars.

What about the one next to it LOL. What is going on with that one?

Ok I will look. I wasn't sure if the early vmac pumps still had a throttle rod but had electronics in the pump or if there was just an electrical connector giving inputs to the pump.

The ones I've seen have the little heat emitters in them like the rear window defroster on a pickup truck or car. There are like 2 or three running parallel around the perimeter of the windshield.

I was just wondering how tough it is for a mechanic to branch off on their own in todays day and age. It seems like you need crazy amounts of scan tools and manufacture specific software to communicate with these new trucks. Also, is there an aftermarket software you can buy that gives you "book time" and procedures for jobs you have never done before? I can't imagine Mack would sell that information to non dealers or what it would cost if they did.

Thats kind of a shame on a few levels. First off its tough for me to understand that a 2004 is considered obsolete. I know its going on 20 years now but I still see piles of Granites on the road. I could understand not stocking too many Granite specific parts anymore but to be completely obsolete to the point where there is no information on it is questionable. I think you got a hold of a lazy parts man. My truck is a 94 RD and my dealer has no issue looking up any part for it. Hopefully that continues to be the case but I realize time moves on and you have to dig harder to keep your old equipment moving. Second, at least they guy at the dealer could have looked up the VIN of one of the township trucks these windshields were supposed to go into and at least tried to give you a fuse size. If the township had previously ordered parts for their trucks at that dealer then they would have been in their computer system....

Do you work for yourself full time now? If so do you mostly only take Mack customers or will you work on anything?

Yes it is still available and it is located on the West side of Pittsburgh, PA between Pittsburgh and the Ohio boarder. Sorry I'm not sure. Is there an easy way to tell from just looking at the side of the engine? Unfortunately the side the injection pump is on is up against the wall but I can look at it from the top if that is helpful. Can anything be gleaned from the picture of the engine tag I attached? I have a full mechanical E7 and fairly familiar with it. Is there something that would give an early vmac engine away?

Did you get the windshield new or remove it from a junk truck? If you removed it you could get the VIN off the truck it was taken out of and go to dealer. They should be able to tell you some particulars regarding fuse size for the defroster. I have only ever seen the heated windshields on Mack Granites specd for government highway departments on their snow plowing trucks.

What is the width of the top and bottom flange and the total overall length?

With supplying the dimensions of the additional frame rail on the RW653 and using a common density value for steel you could easily determine the additional weight contained in the double frame. I suspect the Neway suspensions saves several hundred pounds over a camelback. You have to remember the spring packs alone are 250-300 pounds each plus you don't have the trunnion on the Neway. I suspect even with the double frame the RW653 with Neway air ride is lighter than the truck with single frame and camelback. What are the dimensions of the frame rails?

Urea is a commodity created via coal and natural gas as a byproduct of industrial ammonia production, and like most commodities it is traded on the world market. That is to say one country's supply is heavily dependent on various geopolitical events / decisions from other areas of the globe. The largest producer of Urea is good old China. High natural gas prices have slowed the production overall. Additionally, electricity rationing in China have forced the Chinese urea factories to cut output further lowering supply. The largest use of urea is agricultural fertilizer. The Chinese government has banned the export of urea to sure up its agricultural industry and food supply. 80% of Australia's urea comes from factories in China so you can see where this is going. Also, South Korea gets most of its urea from China. I saw where they have resorted to airlifting loads from Australia further squeezing Aussie's supply. I have seen nothing here yet as to a supply disruption but who knows. As interconnected as every economy is I'm sure its only a matter of time.

I have a good running E7 engine out of a 1995 CH that was rolled over. The truck was slowly rolled onto its side while dumping a dump trailer on unstable ground. It was not in a collision or high speed rollover. It is an E7-300. It has been stored indoors since it was removed removed from the truck and has been stored for several years. I have the VIN number from the truck if needed for parts lookup etc.

1972 R685ST with ENDT 675 237hp and 6 speed lo hole transmission. Camelback suspension. Green interior with steel dash. All original and runs and shifts very well. Would make a good restoration project or excellent parts truck. good PA title in hand. Would love to see it saved rather than scrapped or exported. Located in Pittsburgh, PA Thanks.

Maxidynes existed long before 1973. My 1967 R model is an original numbers matching truck and I have all the original paperwork and build information from the Mack Museum. All the component serial numbers match the serial numbers on the original paperwork. It states in the original 1967 literature "Maxidyne". The engine still has gold paint on it and it retains its original gold bulldog on the hood and doors. My truck was not a "prototype" of any kind and was ordered brand new by a local owner/operator steel hauler to feed his family with. I know of at least 5 or 6 other original trucks that have a 237hp Maxidyne engine and were manufactured well before 1972/73. The original Maxidyne produced from 1966 to 1972 was 237hp and named ENDT675.The revised version of this engine debuted in 1972 or 1973, which had the tip turbine intercooler setup that made it 285hp. This was an ENDT676. I think you could still get the original 237 version up until the E6 came out. My truck has all Mack components in addition to a Maxidyne engine so in my case there is no way to know which theory about the gold bulldog is correct.....

I'm tossing around the idea of selling my B81. It is a 1960 B81SX that is sort of a Frankenstein truck. It is repowered by ENDT675 237hp Maxidyne that is suuuuper healthy and probably closer to 250 or 275hp. I just had the injection pump overhauled and the injection shop juiced it up a little bit. It has an air starter. It still retains the original quad box transmission and 58K rears on camelback suspension with 9.10 gears and rides on matching 12.00-24 rubber that are in good shape for an antique class vehicle. This combination of powertrain is good for about 45 mph. It has triple frame rails with no rust jacking or corrosion anywhere. It is currently set up with a Holland 5th Wheel. It also has "shop built" power steering out of a much later model truck...probably a 1980s R model. Because of this, the steering column / steering wheel do not match the cab interior but greatly improves the drivability of the truck. It really works great at slow speed maneuvering and is not overly conspicuous as to not being original. If you were able to get a period correct steering wheel on this column most people would never know. The truck is overall 95% completed and just needs the front bumper painted and installed which I have. As well as some wiring, detail items, and cleaning / polishing. I hate to sell it but I don't have a tremendous amount of interest in B models and its a nice enough example that the right person could make it super nice. It just takes up space in my garage that could be used for my working truck to be stored inside. I have a clear title in hand for the truck and I'm just wondering given that its not a 100% original truck but in excellent restored shape what it would realistically be worth in its present 95% completed state. Sorry I only have 1 picture of it. Its the only picture I have on my phone of it and its buried in my garage. I will try and take some more pictures of it tonight and upload them. Let me know what you think. Thanks.

I would have to agree with the others on here. This truck is too nice of an example to disassemble. Especially since its a rare model to begin with with only 110 ever being produced. I cant even remember the last time I saw a B model mixer and never in this nice of original condition. They way things seem to be anymore original condition trucks like this seem to bring crazy money from collectors when consigned at reputable auction houses. I would clean and polish this truck up as best you could take about 150 pictures of it and consign it with Mecum auctions or similar. You will most likely end up with enough cash to buy two of what you actually want. Just my opinion though.

How close to Pittsburgh are you? I scoured the country for a very specific period and style of Rest Rite sleeper a few years ago for a project I plan to do. Ended up finding one in New York. I placed a wanted add in the ATHS classifieds and got a lot of leads on all types of old sleepers. You would be amazed at how many guys have these things laying around in barns and sheds. I'm not sure if your looking for a specific make or size but I would try a wanted ad with ATHS. Also you could try Adleman's in Canton, Ohio. They have a pretty large junk yard but I don't know if you would find anything period correct. I looked on Marketplace and there's always quite a few on there....mostly later model peterbilt units and they are always asking a fortune for them. I know of a somewhat period correct Rest Rite sleeper very local to Pittsburgh from my search a while back the guy was willing to give me but its it pretty rough shape and needs completely rebuilt. Its still attached to a late 60s or early 70s Brockway. I had already found and bought mine so I didn't pursue it but its still there as far as I know.

The frame looks really goofy almost like a pickup frame.

If you assume it is governed at 2100 and the replacement transmission is a direct drive (1:1) unit the math checks out. Maxed out at 2100rpm you will only be able to achieve 60-61mph. If you install a T2090 or any 2100 series transmission with your rears and running on 11R22.5 tires you will be turning 1716 rpm at 70mph, and will top out at 85mph.

Be careful doing this. The 2090 and 2100 series have a 0.71 overdrive ratio. If your truck originally had a 6 speed lo hole transmission it almost certainly has a maxidyne engine and very slow rears (somewhere between 5.55 and 6.32:1, or even slower sometimes). With these rear ratios you need the 0.6:1 overdrive ratio to achieve a reasonable cruising speed. From what it sounds like you have 1:1 in top gear now so I guess 0.71 is "better", but still wont cruise as fast as it had before you swapped transmissions. Do you know what rear end ratio you have, what tire size, and what rpm your engine is governed at?

It looks like the pictures were taken in a French speaking area...possibly Quebec? Are you really located in West Pittsburg, PA?

Well then from this statement it sounds like the main box of the replacement transmission is not an overdrive unit. Although I'm not sure on this I guess the easiest fix would be to put your original main box back in and the replacement auxiliary transmission on the back of it? Just a though if there was never any real problems with the main box. Since you have your original transmission out and on the floor you could do some real basic testing by placing paint marks on the input and output shafts and see what the ratio is when you have the main in 5th and the auxiliary in direct. If 5th is indeed an overdrive and assuming its 0.6:1 you should get about 1.7 turns of the output shaft for every one revolution of the input shaft. In hind sight you should have done this once you got the old one out and before putting the new one in so you could make sure you had the same overall ratio......