67RModel

You are pretty much SOL. They have been obsolete for several years. Pretty much your only option is to source some used ones from a salvage yard or change the axle to something with normal wheel ends and brakes. This has been brought up many times on here. Below is a link to the most recent thread I could find on the matter. I always wondered about calling a parts place in France. Presumably there would be a lot more of these trucks over there since they are just rebadged Renaults and imported from France. Maybe they are not obsolete over there yet if you can determine the model number they were sold over there as. Just a thought if you can speak the language.

Ok I try to always follow up on threads I start. Anyway I got to working on removing this system from my truck. I started with removing the switch, indicator lamp and associated air plumbing in the cab. What I’m a little stumped on is what the valve in the first picture is? I will preface that question with how the switch was plumbed behind the dash. There is a large maybe 5/8” airline coming from I assume the air tank into a tee. Out of one branch of the tee goes to the air gauge. The other branch went to the switch. If the switch was turned “on” air would be sent to the valve in the first picture. The line went into a tee that was on the back of this valve and out of the other branch of that tee a line went to the cylinders on the bay pass duct. You can see there is a 3/8” plug in the back where the tee used to be. There is also a line going from this mystery valve to what I think is the aneroid (spelling?) valve on the intake manifold for the puff limiter in the second picture. The left and right sides of the valve in question are just dumping to atmosphere. Is it a quick release valve for when you flip the switch to “off” and/or when the manifold pressure gets high enough to dump the air on the puff limiter?

I think Joe Biden is from Scranton and Fetterman is originally from Reading, PA.

And yes the CS clones that are here in the sates go by many names, Metro, Field Marshall, DES, GTS, Powerline, and many others. From my understanding the "brand" is more or less the assembler and/or exporter. I think there are many workshops in Pune, India that assemble them for anybody and everybody with little to no difference between them. They are just copies of the original CS Listers manufactured in Dursley England.

I plan to use a thermosiphon radiator off of an old John Deere LUC power unit with a cooling fan driven off the engine flywheels. The cooling fan will blow across the radiator much like a vehicle's cooling system. It will take some trial and error / testing once I have it up and running to see what kind of load I can keep cool and for how long. I don't think it will be a problem with a 6kW load, which is all my generator head can supply. I believe the LUC engine was rated at 16hp so I should have plenty of cooling with its radiator in this application. Of course I will be using a 50/50 glycol / water mix to prevent freezing.

I was going to say since its a single axle not too much weight there. Truck will weight 12,000 pounds max but probably less. Only thing to look at on trailer is the tires and hub oil. If the tires are not overly dry rotted and weather checked I would load the B61 on it and pull it home with a truck you know will make the trip. With 8 tires on the trailer and a relatively light load I wouldn't loose much if any sleep over using the trailer to haul the truck as is. If you drive the B61 straight onto the trailer most of the weight will be on your towing trucks 5th wheel anyway.

You gotta get it finished by June of 2027. I just got the latest ATHS magazine the other day and they are saying the national convention show for 2027 is going to be in Reno, NV. June 10-12…..right in your back yard

Ahhh the perks of being a British colony. Old lister engines probably everywhere down there. Sadly they were never really common here. Then India cloned them. The quality of the the clones is shotty at best. They need completely torn down, and cleaned of casting sand and reassembled before they can be run. Our EPA banned the importing of them a while back and you don’t hardly see any at all now. Some people try to sneak them in as “air compressors” with the injection pump removed but I think the customs people are wise to that now. They are certainly a unique engine. If you know then you know…..

I was behind an electric Ford lightning at a stop light the other day. The chassis looks crazy. The back suspension are these insanely large aluminum A arms and there is a CV shaft going to each wheel end. No conventional differential and solid rear axle. It seemed like it sat a lot higher than a regular f150 but I’m not sure.

I am building a "shop built" generator. Below is the power source. Its a clone of a Lister CS single cylinder diesel. Its rated at 8hp at 650 rpm. I will be turning a 6kW Allis Chalmers generator head originally meant to be driven off the belt pulley of a tractor. Its a 4 pole head so I will need to speed it up to 1800rpm for 60hz power. Its all really just a fun fabrication and design project. I will have an insane amount of money into it just to put out a measly 6kW. And it wont be all practical since it will be so heavy and stationary. I think the bare engine is around 1100 pounds. I figure another 1000 pounds or so for the I-beam skid I am going to build and the generator head. For standby power now I have a little vintage 3500 watt Kohler with a Briggs engine on it that puts out 220V I can back feed my panel with enough to run my natural gas furnace, the refrigerator and a few lights. I also have the coal stove and a variety of old wood stoves for heat if things get real bad.

I see Bob's DM playing peekaboo behind the house 👁️‍🗨️. What a little tease...lol

Should you be able to or should it be locked up when cold and not running?

Here in PA its still readily available from many different sources. Eastern PA has the largest reserves of anthracite in the world I think. Western PA where I'm from is all bituminous which is all but dead due to pretty much all the coal fired power plants shutting down and that generation being transitioned to natural gas heat recovery steam generators. I burn anthracite from Eastern PA. Its trucked to local supply yards. I have a small dump trailer I can pull with my pickup truck I get it in and leave it tarped in my back yard. Then I shovel it into a wheelbarrow and leave the wheelbarrow in my unfinished basement near the stove. A full wheelbarrow will last about a week maybe a little more of continuous burning. There are no coal delivery trucks around my area anymore that I know of. Maybe out East where a lot more people still heat primarily with coal are there delivery services that will come and dump or auger it into your bunker. My house is a 1950s ranch house that was originally built with and still has a forced air natural gas furnace. It was never set up to have a coal chute but like you a lot of the older homes and buildings around here still have them. I don't usually mess with it since natural gas is dirt cheap all things considered but if the weather is going to be really cold and nasty for several days in a row I will fire it up for extra heat and comfort. Or if there is an extended power outage. It will easily heat my entire house on radiation and natural convection alone but it too has its drawbacks like anything most of which is cost right now. Coal followed pretty much every other energy source up to the rooftops lately. I think last year I paid $240/ton for chestnut size anthracite. I checked back in October and it was just over $400/ton at the closest suppler to me and that was for bulk tonnage like I get. If you want it in 40# bags its probably closer to $450/ton. Luckily I had about half a ton left over from last year. I haven't bought any this season and probably won't. I'll just sparingly burn up what I have and see if things settle down next fall......probably not lol. Probably be $550/ton by then. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I thought ethering an ASET engine was like the biggest NO-NO in the book? I have a friend who used to own a large fleet of E7s and ASETs. One of his trucks was far away from home and had to get towed into a shop. The shop was a one man real old school operation and the old timer had never worked on anything that new at time. He used ether on it and it wiped out something in the head. Something in the valve train is ceramic or ceramic coated and you can't use ether on them? I can't remember. Maybe I'm wrong on that so correct me if so. If your getting good fuel up to the head ether the computer isn't allowing the injectors to operate because it isn't satisfied or there is not enough compression to ignite diesel. When you crank it without ether will it start to smoke at all out of the exhaust? No smoke no fuel?

I love living in an area where there is actually 4 distinct seasons, however, winter is my least favorite. The first snow or two are nice but after that I'm really done with it and can't stand it. I despise the cold the most. Once it gets cold out I light a coal fire and pretty much hibernate inside until mid March. I think we hit -8 and they said it felt like -30 with the wind. Today its supposed to be 51 and sunny.

You look like Robert Redford in Jeremiah Johnson. Just sayin....

Could the fuel system be sucking a tiny bit of wind? Just enough to loose prime? Had this happen on my series 60 Detroit. Man worked on the return line and used one of the push to connect fittings. It didn’t hold 100%. It wouldn’t start after sitting a few minutes. Ether would get to light up. And at idle it would slowly want to die unless you gave it some throttle.

One might be a T310LR with the super deep reverse gear ratio but otherwise the same. You could check this easy enough if you can get them both into reverse and count the output yoke revolutions for each input shaft revolution. I assume they are both removed from the truck.

He told me he has a dedicated weekly run picking up in Wisconsin and delivering all over the mid Atlantic states. P.S. how is the Hendrickson coming along?

I think you might be thinking of Ray Sidella. He transports a lot of antique trucks for forum members. He moved my White Road Boss for me earlier this year. He has an orange MH he uses. His username her on the forum is mack mhe9. I think he used to be very active but not so much anymore. He responds to PMs very reliably.

There is a bunch of pallet jacks at a local auction coming up. I'm going to try and snag one for a good deal.

Thank you. I will likely try this to save myself the strained back from trying to lift up a drum/hub assembly and trying to slide it on without messing up the wheel seal.

My plan was to remove the wheels first then take off the cone, see what I have, and go from there. I'm not familiar with the greased board method. I can't image how I would move both wheels and tires the hub and brake drum all at once. I don't currently have a cherry picker or gantry crane handy. It has 12.00-24 rubber on it too. Very heavy. But I'm open to any handy tips and tricks. Thanks.

Its a pretty small setup. 24' wide by 40' deep with 12' ceiling height. I just added the lean-to this past summer for some extra storage and it is 12.5' x 40'. It started out as a shop to keep and restore my 1967 R Model. Well you know how that goes. I now have 4 trucks. one working and 3 antiques. It is very cramped now because I try to keep everything under roof out of the weather. So I really have one bay in front of the overhead door for working on things. The rest is basically just storage. Plus its not even finished. I still need to put up the interior wall metal sheeting and run some better electrical throughout. Also I really need to commit and move all my tools and other shop equipment into it. Right now its scattered between my house garage, a shed, and this shop. My plan now that I have proper heat is to knock most of this stuff out this winter. And do a lot of cosmetic and preventative TLC to my 94 RD triaxle. The 94 is bunked inside with the 1960 B81. In the lean-to are my 1967 R model and my 1974 White Road Boss. My plan to finish all the odds and ends on the B81 in the next year or two drive it around for a summer and then sell it. I don't have a lot of interest in it and I don't want to keep it around given the limited space I'm working with. That way I can keep the two remaining antiques in the lean-to and have a much larger space in the shop for working on things and keeping shop tools along the walls etc. In the future I would like to get a nice sand blasting cabinet and press and maybe a larger toolbox. That is the plan I have at the moment, which is written in sand and subject to change lol. My wife and I would like to move to a place that is more secluded with some more property but the last 2 years have kind of put a damper on that idea. We will be fine here until hopefully a little normalcy returns to the real estate market. Plus the thought of moving all this stuff and "starting over" is somewhat dreadful lol.

Below are two pictures. The first one is of the drive hub on my 1994 RD with 44,000lb rears. The second is of the drive hub on my 1960 B81 with what I think are 58,000lb rears. They have the infamous "cone" in the center of the hub. I am very familiar with wheel end tear down on the style of axle the 94 RD has. Unbolt flange and axle/flange assembly comes out as one piece etc. I have never messed with the B81 axles. I want to remove the wheels and hubs to get a look in there and get the brakes sorted and checked over. Is there any special process to follow with this style of hub? What will I see when I remove the cone? Is the axle shaft attached to it like my RD? Are the bearings in these axles running in an oil bath from the gear oil (like the RD) or are they packed in grease? I'm sure I have other questions but can't think of them now. Or I will have more when I start into the project. Thanks.