67RModel

One might be a T310LR with the super deep reverse gear ratio but otherwise the same. You could check this easy enough if you can get them both into reverse and count the output yoke revolutions for each input shaft revolution. I assume they are both removed from the truck.

He told me he has a dedicated weekly run picking up in Wisconsin and delivering all over the mid Atlantic states. P.S. how is the Hendrickson coming along?

I think you might be thinking of Ray Sidella. He transports a lot of antique trucks for forum members. He moved my White Road Boss for me earlier this year. He has an orange MH he uses. His username her on the forum is mack mhe9. I think he used to be very active but not so much anymore. He responds to PMs very reliably.

There is a bunch of pallet jacks at a local auction coming up. I'm going to try and snag one for a good deal.

Thank you. I will likely try this to save myself the strained back from trying to lift up a drum/hub assembly and trying to slide it on without messing up the wheel seal.

My plan was to remove the wheels first then take off the cone, see what I have, and go from there. I'm not familiar with the greased board method. I can't image how I would move both wheels and tires the hub and brake drum all at once. I don't currently have a cherry picker or gantry crane handy. It has 12.00-24 rubber on it too. Very heavy. But I'm open to any handy tips and tricks. Thanks.

Its a pretty small setup. 24' wide by 40' deep with 12' ceiling height. I just added the lean-to this past summer for some extra storage and it is 12.5' x 40'. It started out as a shop to keep and restore my 1967 R Model. Well you know how that goes. I now have 4 trucks. one working and 3 antiques. It is very cramped now because I try to keep everything under roof out of the weather. So I really have one bay in front of the overhead door for working on things. The rest is basically just storage. Plus its not even finished. I still need to put up the interior wall metal sheeting and run some better electrical throughout. Also I really need to commit and move all my tools and other shop equipment into it. Right now its scattered between my house garage, a shed, and this shop. My plan now that I have proper heat is to knock most of this stuff out this winter. And do a lot of cosmetic and preventative TLC to my 94 RD triaxle. The 94 is bunked inside with the 1960 B81. In the lean-to are my 1967 R model and my 1974 White Road Boss. My plan to finish all the odds and ends on the B81 in the next year or two drive it around for a summer and then sell it. I don't have a lot of interest in it and I don't want to keep it around given the limited space I'm working with. That way I can keep the two remaining antiques in the lean-to and have a much larger space in the shop for working on things and keeping shop tools along the walls etc. In the future I would like to get a nice sand blasting cabinet and press and maybe a larger toolbox. That is the plan I have at the moment, which is written in sand and subject to change lol. My wife and I would like to move to a place that is more secluded with some more property but the last 2 years have kind of put a damper on that idea. We will be fine here until hopefully a little normalcy returns to the real estate market. Plus the thought of moving all this stuff and "starting over" is somewhat dreadful lol.

Below are two pictures. The first one is of the drive hub on my 1994 RD with 44,000lb rears. The second is of the drive hub on my 1960 B81 with what I think are 58,000lb rears. They have the infamous "cone" in the center of the hub. I am very familiar with wheel end tear down on the style of axle the 94 RD has. Unbolt flange and axle/flange assembly comes out as one piece etc. I have never messed with the B81 axles. I want to remove the wheels and hubs to get a look in there and get the brakes sorted and checked over. Is there any special process to follow with this style of hub? What will I see when I remove the cone? Is the axle shaft attached to it like my RD? Are the bearings in these axles running in an oil bath from the gear oil (like the RD) or are they packed in grease? I'm sure I have other questions but can't think of them now. Or I will have more when I start into the project. Thanks.

I’ll have to take some more pictures of it tomorrow. I actually don’t have anymore of it lol. I have a bunch of when it was getting built initially but nothing recent.

It’s really nice since the whole slab is 65 degrees. The whole shop is being headed with radiation from the slab rather than convection from a warm air furnace or unit heater. With the slab controlled at 65 if feels much warmer than 65. I don’t know what the air temp is since the thermometer reads the slab temperature. The trade off is its much more costly to install than a unit heater or regular furnace.

I don't ever get hot lol. A room can never be too hot for me. The hotter the better in my opinion so this heated floor is a game changer for me. My house is the same way. I usually keep it anywhere from 74-76 degrees in Winter. I light a coal fire in my coal stove usually around mid December and it doesn't go out until early April.......Winter sucks for me lol.

I built my shop back in 2016 and have never had heat in it until now. When I poured the floor back then I insulted underneath and the perimeter and put the pex tubing in for in floor heat but never got around to making it work until now. I always found other uses for that money and just said "ill just use a torpedo heater this winter". I finally got the boiler hooked up and running and now my shop is a nice comfortable 65 degrees. This was my first rodeo with radiant floor heat and its a game changer. Night and day comfort difference when compared to forced air heating.

In the lot parked next to me there arose such a clatter. I sprang from my bunk to see what was the matter. When what to my wondering ears should I hear? but a cold 1693 cat and an 18 gear.

OK. here are some questions that may help: 1. Is this something that just happened? Like you opened the hood one day and they were touching? Or have you noticed the clearance between the two getting smaller over time. 2. How much is the clearance on a Trident that doesn't have this problem? 3 inches or 3mm? 3. Have you done any crazy offroading or heavily loaded offroading? Maybe your frame is twisted? If engine, trans, and cab mounts are all new/good what else could it be?

Just to be clear is the broken rocker arm and bent push rod the one the mechanic adjusted twice?

What about your cab mounts?

All the old literature I have seen on them the highest rating was 450hp. And I think 1250 ft lb

Is your 1693 painted white or is it yellow? I think the early cat truck engines were “Matterhorn White” color.

From what I have read on other truck and tractor forums is that they were considerably more expensive. It was Allis’s first rodeo at a truck engine and people were hesitant to be a Guinea pig. But I think the biggest downfall was they had no dealer network along the highway system like Cummins and Detroit had. You were forced to find a construction equipment or possibly a tractor dealer that could work on them. I think it was the same engine used in their largest dozer but tweaked for road use. Also maybe used in the AC 220 tractor

Ahhh makes sense with the jakes and overhead cams. Every time I hear one of his stories I wonder "how good could they really have been compared to the competition?" I wanna say their max factory hp rating was 300 but like you said probably had more torque than most other engines of the time due to their larger size. I also always wonder too about the Allis Chalmers 25000 "Big Al" truck engine. Supposedly they were complete animals. Factory rated at 450hp when everything else was 300 or 350 max. I even think they came with a guarantee to be able to maintain the speed limit on any US highway at legal weight. They were painted purple and an option in Kenworth and Peterbilt trucks. I think Mack also built some F model cabovers with them for power. They are super rare and not much information left on them anymore.

I had one with a steel nose for sale a while back along with a DM800. Had them both sold multiple times and the deal always fell through. Luckily the DM600 finally got saved by a collector willing to restore it. The DM800 sadly fell victim to the torch. Its probably Chinese made brake rotors by now.. 😪

I have a buddy who rants and raves about a 1693 Caterpillar and how back in the day they were "all that and then some". He was running them in the mid to late 1970s in A model Kenworths. It seems to me looking back in hindsight they were not really all that impressive other than its large size and ability to take as much fuel as your could pump into it (from what I'm told). From what I understand they were a precombustion chamber engine and not able to have jake brakes installed on them for whatever reason. I mean Mack had direct injection I think as far back as 1953 when the Thermodyne 673 was designed. Also Mack had the tip turbine air to air charge cooler in 1971. I dont think Cat had any charge air cooling until the 3406A and it was the water cooled deal. Cat didn't have air to air until the 3406B in the early 80s. Plus Mack engines could have Jakes installed and they even developed their own Dynatard in I think 1971 also. Also, I am told they were very delicate over 1800 rpm. The valves and rocker arms would get wiped out real easy at higher rpms. I think the 1693s are kind of unimpressive on paper compared to contemporary Mack engines. Most of what I typed about the 1693 is what I have been told so I could be wrong with some of it. Thoughts?

The intake ports on Macks with CMCAC are pointing straight up. the outlet of the CAC runs straight along the top of the engine and turns vertically down into the intake manifold. Even the E7s. And yes by 1978 - 1982 Mack had to have been developing a charge air cooler like we have today. In fact I think they were the first domestic company to offer one. On the E6 engine.

The XT signifies a particular ECM software programming. The engine is E7 Etec with a 460XT tune. 460 being the horsepower. There are many members on here who can elaborate on the specifics of the XT tune versus non XT tuning. And yea $60,000 for that truck is insanity on a whole new level. The bidders that kept bidding after $30k need their heads checked.

They did. They just never sold it to the public. The Mack Big Six. 885 cubic inch inline 6 and utilized E9 cylinder heads. There is one sitting on an engine stand at the Mack Museum.