67RModel

Looks like all they liked to buy was flat top sleepers except the very last one. How long did you typically stay out on the road before coming home?

Yea I guess I don't really know what is going on here. If its a 6V system then running a 12V regulator on the 6V generator (assuming its in good working order) will work for quite a while. How long considering the extra beacons and strobe lights? I have no clue. I was thinking along the lines of a typical antique truck like a road tractor or flatbed that really only has headlights and a heater blower motor maybe and only gets driven a few times a month. These old B models had air wipers and no radio or power accessories whatsoever. And most trucks don't get driven in the winter or at night so really that just leaves the turn signals and starter. If its a 12V generator then just leave it alone unless its not working. If its not working just get it rebuilt so you can keep your power steering pump arrangement alone. No need to switch it to an alternator.

Then once the fields in the generator burn up (if it ever happens) just get them changed to 12V. No need for an alternator. Especially in this case when eliminating the generator gives you power steering pump issues.

Why do you want to make it into an alternator? A 6V generator in good condition will make 15+ volts when not connected to a battery. All you would need to do is install a 12V regulator in lieu of the 6V. Not the ideal solution but works very well for a long time. Eventually the fields in the generator will burn up by doing this but it will take a very long time considering how little electronics there are on a 1957 B model. Personally I would try that first....

This thread from a while back will help you some. You need to know your rear ratio before you do anything. If the trans is original to the truck its a T2050 I would think in 1986. By going to any Eaton trans or even a Mack 9, 10, 13 or 18 speed your top speed will suffer considerably as these all have a 0.71 OD vs your current 0.6. I don't think swapping the trans is easily accomplished. Even switching to a different Mack transmission would give you a lot of fitment / linkage issues. Its been discussed many many times on here. It depends on how important it is to you and how deep your pockets are vs just getting a truck already specd the way you want it. Most people love or hate the Mack 5 speeds and/or the variations of it (T2060, T2070, T2080, TRL107, etc.) Power to spare in 4th gear, dogging it in 5th gear on every small hump in the road you come to. And most guys cant stand staying in the throttle all the way down to 1200-1300 rpms before downshifting to 4th. They think they are loosing time or something I guess. My experience/observation is they are adequate for maintaining the posted speed limit or posted minimum speed, which in most cases feels too slow by todays "standards". If you are able to get into the proper mindset and understand how the transmission/engine combination are supposed to work they are fine. Quite frankly a different transmission probably isn't going to get you an additional load per shift or get you to your destination an hour sooner. But I do understand why a lot of people hate them.

I had a Pacbrake on a 12.7L series 60 Detroit and it worked extremely well. I realize a series 60 is overhead cam and not remotely similar to an E6. I am just attesting to how well they work on a similar displacement engine. I wouldn't be afraid of a Pacbrake if that's all that is available.

They are usually on the back lower edge on the passenger side. It looks like it has a horizontal side window like Mercurys do.

Is that a mercury sleeper on that rig?

Ok thanks for all the responses. I don’t have time to sit down and really digest all the info right now. I will get some pictures of the spindle and upload. I’m guessing this seal wasn’t installed properly with the correct tools. More to follow.

OK. How tight should the collar be? It slid off pretty easily with very little effort. Just a little wiggle and it slid right off, which would lead me to think it slid right on and no tool was required. Should there be a lot of friction between the collar and spindle? Perhaps is the wrong seal and collar for this application?

I have a leaking wheel seal on my drop axle. Axle is a 20,000lb non steerable Silent Drive, which I think is technically a Dexter axle now. Anyway, I tore it apart to change it and I found strange damage to the metal collar that slides onto the spindle first. The Seal is a Stemco 2110 Grit Guard. And the hub is a Webb 22.5 dayton spider hub. The failed wheel seal was only 1.5 years old and had less than 10,000 miles on it. What would cause the collar to get damaged like that? The seal itself pressed into the race looks completely fine (not visibly damaged) but obviously is seeping somewhere. Any thoughts?

I think if you give them enough $$ and enough time time they will do it. I think they have to have your old ones to work from though. They cant just make a set without a pattern.

Yes they can. They choose not to advertise it because it takes too long and ties up too much manufacturing space for other jobs I guess. They actually have a thread on the forum here of them doing it. Its several years old now.....

First I was thinking it was one of those Chrysler V8 deals since it looks like a light duty spec. Maybe an R400? The front hubs look almost like a medium duty weight rating. But the listing says diesel so I'm guessing its an 864 V8. If so, hopefully it runs and doesn't need anything major because I hear parts for those are basically non existent anymore.....

That dog should definitely be rescued. I think it will certainly follow you home LOL

Vicon Fabricating in Mentor, Ohio....a suburb of Cleveland.

Rather than do all that nonsense you could get brand new rails made. P.G. Adams in Maine or another outfit in Cleveland, Ohio I cant think of the name right now. Take your old rails there and get brand new ones with identical dimensions and hole locations.

Dont think so Bob. The DM frame has a much deeper web section of the channel and changes dimension significantly just ahead of the front drive axle. I'm not sure if the DM frames are splayed like the R model's are. So in short the frames themselves are very different. Could you make an R model cab, hood, and other components integrate onto a DM frame? Maybe. I think you will run into too many fitment issues. Practically my answer to the OP is "no".

Just go on Muncie’s website and use their PTO builder. Over a dozen options https://www.munciepower.com

Yes tubeless 24.5 rims will fit on your spokes. However, 11.00-22 tube type tires are still readily available. Check simpletire.com. They have a sumitomo and a chinesium brand in stock.

Kind of a shame given its relative rarity but I guess you cant save them all. I'm just happy I found a nice one a little while back and was able to save it. Mine has a V8 screamer in it though. I almost decided several times to drag this one home since it was close to me but I refrained. I guess mine is worth a few pennies more now 😂.

I saw this browsing Marketplace. No affiliation with the listing. Looks like a super nice little truck. Windshield needs some love. Can't beat the price either. @Joey Mack how far is Marion, NC from you? LOL. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1208157969832910/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

I saw this browsing Marketplace. No affiliation with the listing. I think a Mack B77 is a supercharged Cummins 335. Has to be a pretty rare beast. They say its all original so definitely probably worth the asking price if its not rotten. Certainly not your average B model here..... https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/737653184823210/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

Have you sent into the Mack Museum yet to get all the build information and data for it yet? The big packet of information they will send you is neat to have. It will tell you all the specs on how it was ordered, who ordered it, etc. They will provide all the serial numbers of the main components so you can tell if its a "numbers matching" truck. Not that any of that really matters but its just neat to know the history of the truck. Beast part is the information is basically free. They ask for a small donation but its not required.