mechohaulic
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Everything posted by mechohaulic
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10=4 on the idea to replace clutch; that's called common sense. "how much is the doggy in the window" this case toooo much .LOL "I did kinda tap plate " 😱. DO NOT loosen the dogs from outside. if that works and doesn't create a bigger problem then my suggestion is to run right out and buy a lottery ticket. you would be one lucky individual. you don't have any way of holding the dogs . also if the dogs were removed during flywheel machining difficult to decide where to put them back one side worn more then other then put in opposite will put you where you are now. it's removal time
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restudy pictures ;; why does the forks seem to be covered in grease : not helping brake, also you stated disc looks worn ???? Have seen brake disc totally worn/ greased still might be a little grinding in and out of gear = but can disengage. back to flywheel dogs- sorry to ruin your day.
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It's obvious you have "Your sh-t together" mechanically ; has to be a simple situation. back to square one would put me to the flywheel dogs . new or reuse old dogs? as earlier stated , I use the center intermediate plate; should have been new with clutch assy making sure plate slides freely. hoping as you are to resolve this technical difficulty WITHOUT PULLING TRANS
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not dismissing motor mounts as to partial problem if sticks move excess. if this unit had strictly mechanical linkage ; meaning ALL steel rods/ clevis etc THEN motor mounts would have a greater impact on operation. having cable:: mounts not so much issue. did original unit have same clutch brake set up?not to be a bigger than am pain in ass BUT with clutch "engaged" what is clutch brake disc suppose to make contact with? should be nose cone of trans, all pictures sent helped out greatly can't see brake disc though
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100 thanks for pictures ; big question is WHERE'S THE CLUTCH BRAKE? when you say "gave it quick adjust" = do you mean adjust from outside linkage? thats for clutch brake. the yellow tag on pressure plate (5/8th socket) is for adjusting clutch.
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another thought in reference to worn mounts== mounts worn bad enough to screw up engage/disengage :: the shift lever(levers) should rock back and forth or sideways if you prefer
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so flywheel WAS machined: leaving 1% outer edge due to machining capability OR because dogs were left in place ? after dogs removed/replaced = have used the center intermediate plate for realignment tool also. flywheel on floor install dogs , slide center plate back and forth till it slides easy after all dogs tighten . which brings about another question; were new dogs installed or reuse old . worn will break ba-ls as will new. new have to be perfect alignment or it will hang up.
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something still not right by sounds. can't be in traffic not being able disengage clutch and stop
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not doubting your mechanical ability - going by situation ; I still go with internal issue with clutch disc installed backwards not releasing tension . have installed new clutch assy that still needed adjusting on pressure plate ring. with clutch brake being adjusted on outside adjustment.
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have you tried the pedal down and inspect clutch brake underside to see if brake is tight against pressure plate throw out bearing?? even if it wasn't you shouldn't have had issue with truck not coming out of gear when running.
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even if flywheel was not machined; couldn't be that bad disc won't disengage. if an old style fiber discs were taken out and "new" style button disc clutch was installed = still should work
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heck it's late off topic I go :: why did the tune come to mind when I read "the ace helpful hardware man"LOL
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sounds like rain may mess things up at macungie . got an injection in one hip on monday almost looked promising to be able to do some walking around Pa. squashed that idea on tuesday after taking heck of a shiter while weed trimming high grass on rock pile in yard. dumb Polack !!LOL
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where did the "shell answer man " go ?? how am I suppose to sleep tonight not knowing !!😂
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has to be a basic issue . try the pedal down see what is contacting or not ; have to keep us updated; these things are tuff on us ole folk not being there to check and say " there's the problem it's simple fix. "
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1/2in between throw out and new clutch brake was stated; that tells me its a spicer/eaton with pull clutch and brake on input shaft . clutch adjust internal on pressure plate with clutch brake adjustment on external linkage.
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any possibility of a picture from ground level looking up INTO bellhousing lower inspection / adjusting hole?? at this point we are all reading the same book ; we are just on different pages sorta speaking.
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first post states "going into a western mack";linkage picture shows a cable clutch linkage, add two together question now is 1- are both trucks same model :2- did both units have same cable linkage or is one mechanical vs cable linkage? 3- engine swap is topic: did transmission stay the same ??4- jobber sourced the clutch; do the clutches look the same ?? go with that for now. i've never had to measure free play with a tape just "eye ball ". check physical appearance with clutch pushed down see what not contacting what. also under these conditions : I would connect brakes system so it can be controlled
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my first thoughts were disc installed wrong /not releasing ;; have seen & done it. one disc has longer hub when installed backwards :: right place but backwards the center hubs on the two disc touch and won't release.
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reread this entire topic three times to get on right brain thoughts. 1 - you stated the clutch linkage is different (based on picture) , does this have a clutch brake mounted on pilot shaft or is brake under pilot mounted to trans??- haven't looked at your reply Jojo ; still writing. 2- with a helper or 2x4 holding clutch pedal down , does the linkage come in contact with clutch brake??? a spicer /eaton clutch would have an internal adjust with clutch brake external adjust ;; the purpose of the adjustment shown in picture, a mack clutch would be external adjust with clutch brake internal.
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no offence to anyone , but that is one ugly lookin excuse of a truck !LOL
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for parts that involved to change, one goes bad ;; 11 others follow soon ?? I personally would search out all 12 "updated " lifters. time and $$ possible: end results you might not have to look at the front engine gearing for a while.
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lookin good , positive progress makes for good day. before tooo much fuel bleeding , long as batteries are good random cranking will be best to get oil pressures up before engine running; just a thought.
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why is it when logging on to the forum , the Macungie dates are showing 15th --17th; then change to 16th---18th?? ANOTHER IMPORTANT NOTE FOR EAST COAST/ NEW ENGLAND TRAVELLERS== the I -95 south bound bridge in PA is gone . heavy delays . seek alternate route !! 84-684-287 possible .. due to a couple physical set-backs looks like the trip is out for me =
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to me it's not only the enjoyment ,more important is saving a piece of "history". unfortunately in todays world watching some auctions it's the mega -buck boys that buy to "add to their collection". mecum other day had a Ferrari that sold for 2.1 million DOLLARS !!!!! . the B-models that money could have bought and saved. far as oil seals 40 yrs old Bob : price is right and shipping , misc not bad ; time will find seals and other needed items. I had the '49 EE & EF also an old Diamond -T winch truck . plowed snow with EE and hauled hay with the EF flatbed. used them , same time enjoyed them .also at this time miss them.
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