JoeH

As the bus frame didn't stick out far enough for the front axle I'm going to bet on the bus being grafted to the hood. If I were to build that I'd start with the frame. Easier to graft the bus to a frame than the engine/trans/axle/steering to the bus. May have been a superliner frame that was stretched for the project. Could be new PGAdams rails or something, but I'm betting it's just a stretched truck frame.

After my first debacle doing my own AC I just pay the professionals to do it. Took me 2 days (not full work days, but I had to learn what I was doing) and $400+ in parts to do it myself the first time, then it cost me $700 a year later to have my local shop do it. AC is something I don't care to get good at bc I don't have the tools. Not worth a seized AC compressor at 2am in a snow storm when I could be making $85+/hour. Mine seized, clutch and all. So it wasn't like I could pull the relay to disengage the compressor clutch.

Looks almost like a bus front end.

Table of contents of the fuel system book. Pretty thorough.

My binders are tune up books, overhaul books, etc. Nice to have books gifted/handed through the generations. I wonder if my books will be relevant to my trucks in 18 years when my son starts driving.... I'll try and have at least something still here that they apply to. Even if it's just Camelback suspension.

My binders are brown 😎

My books go through 1986 or so, which is about when my dad bought our first Mack, (1979 R686ST) which we are still beating on today. He learned from a mechanic in his younger years don't try to remember specs. Look them up. Which is probably why he bought the binders. They cover everything from injection pumps to camelbacks. V8s, 2vh end673 to 4vh e6's. Frame repair, cab, oil and filter air cleaners, transmissions, bogies...

Back to my original post, it was the supply line my dad cracked on the pump and got nothing. Shut down lever has resistance, so we're looking at algea. We've had algea issues before in other equipment that's sat, I just misunderstood which line my dad cracked.

It's 4 studs that protrude out of the adapter that the pump mounts to.

Here is my Mack book. Robert Bosch is mentioned up front in every engine book I have in binder #1, both 2vh and 4vh engines. American Bosch is mentioned through 1983 and then in 1984 American Bosch became "United Technologies Diesel Systems". My engine books even have V8 info in them too. There's a sneak peek of binder #1 for you. And the casting number on the Robert Bosch adapter.

I think you'll note in the picture that the front of the pump actually is 4 bolts. But they use an adapter that uses a 3 bolt pattern to bolt to the block. You can just see one of the bosses on the pump side of the adapter. I can double check later to make sure I'm right, but I believe all endt pumps have an adapter section between them and the block.

I do believe this is a Robert Bosch mounted on a 1976 endt676 inside my retired 1980 DM686SX.

And this one.

No dice on a vintage truck rolling coal in black n white. But I found this!

Yes the vacuum sucks EVERYTHING out. Humidity, freon, oil... It puts a vacuum on the system for a half hour or something. Then the tech switches it over to fill it up. When I had my car AC fixed 2 years ago the compressor was worn out, wasn't effective at moving the freon, even though it had a full charge.

I've got three 2 valve endt676 engines, two have one brand and the third has the other brand. My crane has an endt675, not sure if it has same pump as the U model, doesn't make a difference to me so long as they start and do what I tell them!

Is this both American and Robert Bosch pumps?

Need it for yard work this week.

😭 Got this bad boy started up, hasn't run in a few years, was last on the road for snow work in '02, but we have started it and moved it once every 5 years or so. (I think Rob had one of these posts recently about how auto guys make a huge deal about starting their gassers for the first time in 2 years, deisel guys just drop a battery in and hit it!) Started and ran good, shut it off after a few minutes. A couple hours later it won't start! Cranks good, but isn't getting fuel. We cracked the return line off the injection pump and don't get any fuel gushing out when we crank it. Did I read somewhere recently that the fuel shutoff rack can stick internally? Could this be the cause? I can almost guarantee the fuel filters haven't been changed since the 90's, we're going to start there. No hand primer pump on the truck, we'll have to pick one up. Suggestions? 1976ish U685T.

You're supposed to put an AC vacuum machine on the system first, and use the same machine to pump freon and oil into the system. Atmosphere humidity has gotten into the system from being apart, it will rust your compressor and in a year or so it will seize, and when your AC kicks on the belt will slip on the compressor pulley and you'll eat belts. Other people may have done it and been fine but I got one year out of the AC on my dodge 2500 before the above happened. Had to buy a non-AC belt to run the bypass belt route.

Your granddaddy was rolling on low profiles before low profiles were hip.

As of last December they couldn't do the splay. We were pricing out reframing our DM686SX. Belly they could do, but not the splay.

You can buy rails from your Mack dealer, so somebody is making them...

Lol put a basket on the end of that and use it for treework. That ladder is massive.

Even still, DM frame may be different. My DM (it's a double frame) frame is about 13-15? inches tall for the first couple feet behind the cab, then it tapers to 11 inches for the rest. If you only need straight rails you could contact PG Adams. They make frame rails. But they unfortunately can't do the R model splay around the engine and trans.