Mack Technician

Did you replace all three of the major components (start, battery, alternator) trying to fix this reoccurring start issue?

Ends are 21090679 (104GC5164M-old number) $284.06, of which you need 2. Center is a 21090730, $203.99 (Both 104GC5165M3 (high temp center) and 104GC5165M (regular application) supersede to same number.... 21090730).

Agree, CV is a nice truck to drive. You can do anything in any order basically, as common sense dictates since the parts all overlap in some manner...(manifold, injector, turbo). Expect to break a stud or two on the top row. I broke 2. One extracted, one got dissolved in chassis. I drill the stud center till I'm almost touching threads then go down the center of the drill hole with a high speed (ball) burr. I burr-grind a lollypop at the end of the tunnel then roll the thread shell into the void I created and pull pieces out. Don't get too wild on the burr since you don't want to touch oil or coolant.

A new manifold is going to run you $900. Try to find a take-off. I included the service bulletin for high temp manifold part number. If you buy a complete manifold it will come in three pieces. The two end pieces are the same number, get the high temp center regardless of HP rating. Finding more people are dealing with elevated E.G.temps (even in HP ranges under 460) which justifies the high temp center investment.

At the end of the day the cause of global conflict, and a Third World War, will be the same as WW2..... hungry stomachs. Keep folks fat and happy they will see past a lot of transgressions. Take the food off the table, as with the Great Depression, everyone snaps out of apathy and into survival mode. If a guy can’t feed his kids, and can’t do a damn thing about it, he is in a position make some very poor decisions and believe some very unhealthy propaganda. Ex- rise of the Nazi’s.

Understood, when the cancer does come it's usually Leukemia. Hence I've been looking hard for the cure. Got this body from Washington State, salt free. My last 1990 finally became so rusty I had to put an axe handle between the cab and box to pry the rear door jamb forward to engage the lock jaws of the door. It was disbonded and holding on by the roof structure. Needed it for one last road trip and the final straw came one night on the big lake. I and my fishing buds were in the middle of St.Nowhere, Minnesota flying across a lake that froze into a snow washboard. The chassis/frame started shaking & twisting violently, throwing rust, and split the saddle mounted gas tank in half. Ford had me covered though...….flip the switch to rear tank . Since then I always look for two left-side gas fills before purchasing.

2 packs of 3 cans is my guess. As far as interior spraying.....I sprayed the interior of the doors.....That wept from the rain drains (onto the low door jamb), a little at a time, for almost two years in the heat of direct sunlight and will want to stick onto the wife's pants when she hops in, so avoid that mistake. In places where I couldn't properly direct-spray the underside i used a weed sprayer to inject a mixture of waste oil. Places like the up side of the inner wheel well canopies. initially I bought a cheap roll of vapor barrier plastic for when I left it in the garage. It doesn't drip for very long and stiffens up. As mentioned, direct sun can thin the tar a bit.

It was the "8th" generation F150, so I picked the theme. My favorite vintage for general build, spec, etc. Keep putting the same driveline, engine, comp, harnesses, and diff gears into new versions of the old chassis since 2004. Motor is on it's third life.

Sells in a three pack of 20 OZ cans for $28.99. The guy I buy from is 715-564-3328, straight shooter. You will pay the shipping.

A.D.D. comment: Really like the paint job on that truck icon! For some reason it makes me think of old school Christmas candy...…….

“Thank God it’s not a Volvo”......ummmm, shoot...

not sure if it will penetrate, but would definitely glue it shut with a couple coats.

You don’t need cal codes to run well. Every OEM has been unable to answer the question “so why do you have cal codes”. IMO, It’s mostly a money game. Mack factory said it has to do with EUP unique volume, but that was the factory trainers best guess. Everyone else says they think it has something to do with emissions. Liehberr got rid of cal codes. Cat gives you a CD of what they call “trim” codes. JDeere still has them and includes uploading serial numbers of injectors so they can trace them on satellite. my understanding is a unit injector or EUP is considered a field service item, so they can’t render a machine unusable without plug and play.

Salute, Keep a rainy day fund for an occasional synchronizer swap-out and happy sailing!

Just me or do you find yourself cringing when that idiot is throwing beer bottles at that truck’s paint job....? If I was writing the movie there would have been fifteen seconds in which the guy keeps pulling himself up on the bulldog hood ornament, slowly losing strength, staring into the dogs chrome button eyes....... then “splat”, road grease.

I’d say “normal” and don’t get it looked at. They have a real learning curve, especially if your coming right out of the Eaton Fuller camp and into a Mack. Mack stole some design points from Eaton, when they built the Mack T300 series, to make a more positive shift. Most obvious was the slider clutch redesign. If your over the road your better off with an Eaton for low operating cost, higher efficiency, replacement/parts/reman availability, ease to drive, etc. If your in the dirt, Mack will make money for you(Aside from relearning how to shift). Mack is shadowed by an aftermarket line of parts that are OEM quality, PAI Industries. They under-cut Mackvo dealership parts somewhere to the tune of 30% which makes running a Mack more practical. Good luck & Safe travels!!!

Setting records for snowfall this month and dealing with the psychological fall-out. Beer truck crashed a bank, hung-up and caused a shortage. Mayor issued state of emergency. Low front came in and dropped the factory steam plume over the highway, leading to 12" max visibility, leading to County plow truck careening into the local reservoir. Been unable to maintain a good fire escape. The good news is we can walk onto the roof in one spot without a ladder and can accidentally fall/slide off the roof with no serious injury beyond a twisted wrist.

Makes you ponder what video game warfare will look like in 20 years?

You have much prior experience with driving a Mack transmission? Or your first?

Brilliant. Still waiting for our 100 million barrels of free crude from Kuwait and Iraq. Let’s add that to the collection legislation.

I view the party system as a dual chapter labor union with fantastic potential for over-reach, with no one to regulate them properly or bargain against, and no annual dues. I can't vote (for union officers) outside of my workplace labor union any more than you can successfully bring in someone from outside your political union.

The best fuel mileage I have recorded on a Mack truck came out of a fleet of those Maxicruise w/T-2060 hauling lowboys of lumber over flat earth. When you take the synchro out of a Mack transmission you have a bulletproof unit.

Our humble opinion....... The machines our rolling equipment feeds never sleep 24/7/365 days a year. My Super is afraid to purchase any deeper into final 4, particularly on Liehberr Eq.

Case in Point...…Since the internet gives everyone and information advantage you would assume it would force the market to comply, nope. Amazon did drop $50, I think it was like $250 and northern tool was around $70 at one point.