mrsmackpaul

It mentions a ACCO a few times, and is a bloody good watch Paul

Okay, time for another one They built a secret glider in an attic using bed slats and a bathtub. This was the incredible escape plan hatched by Allied prisoners of war inside Germany's supposedly escape-proof Colditz Castle during WWII. ✈️ Confined to the castle reserved for the most defiant and persistent escape artists, British pilots Bill Goldfinch and Jack Best led a team to build a two-man glider right under the noses of their captors. They worked in a hidden workshop in a remote attic, using stolen and improvised materials. The glider's wings and fuselage were built from bed boards and floorboards. Control wires were fashioned from electrical wiring taken from unused parts of the castle. The glider's skin was made from cotton bedsheets, sealed with a paste of boiled millet porridge stolen from the kitchens. The finished glider, nicknamed the "Colditz Cock," had a 32-foot wingspan and weighed 240 pounds. The plan was to launch it from the castle roof. 😲 Their launch system was just as creative. They would use a 60-foot runway of tables and a catapult powered by a bathtub filled with concrete, dropped through a hole in the floor to generate speed. By the spring of 1945, the glider was complete and ready for the escape attempt. However, the plan was never put into action. In April 1945, American forces liberated Colditz Castle, and the hidden glider was revealed to the world. A testament to human ingenuity and the unbreakable will to be free. Years later, a replica was built following the original plans and materials. It flew successfully, proving the daring design was completely airworthy. I reckon it's a fascinating story, the human spirit is strong Paul

Take a photo of your batteries with the cables still connected and share it on here We are only guessing and we are blindfolded as well as we can't even see what we are looking at Paul

As I understand this The truck wasn't working before the batteries were changed The batteries were changed in a attempt to get the truck going but there is no change Is this correct ? And sorry I do not have a CXU wiring diagram Paul

When you say you have the correct voltage Were are you measuring the voltages at ? Paul

Happy trails

I believe so

If we think about the normal old family car, sedan or station wagon The wheels that go missing when driving along are always on the LHS This rarely happens today, maybe the taper on the nut has changed or maybe tyre service places doing them up with rattle guns makes them tighter than before Dunno, but it was always the LHS going AWOL Paul

Japanese trucks like Isuzu and Hino have left hand threads on the left Basically, it's very common and the theroy about nuts undoing as Joey and Mech mentioned above is correct as far as I know Paul

Bob Legend has it the plus cab was a Australian invention, sort of According to legend or urban myth as it's called today Australia had trouble sourcing R model cabs so Mack in Australia got locally made fiberglass cabs of the R and F models To give a smooth inside and outside appearance the cabs were double skinned This resulted in the cabs been several inches longer than normal Apparently (like who would really know) this is were the plus 3 cab idea came from I'm thinking it is more coincidence than what actually happened But it makes for a good yarn Paul

Struth, you have it almost completely apart now, I would of thought for piece of mind, with out of the truck and all it would be wise to fully drop it apart to inspect it You have far more experience at building motors than me so I'm sure your all over this Paul

Something a little like this, turn the block up the otherway A shop press, even you have to buy one is gunna get a lot more use in most work shops than a special liner puller Thanks for the photo Vlad Paul

Now if you cast your memories back a week or so and Vlad shared a link to his Lanova motor getting rebuilt The whole block went in the normal smallish shop press to press sleeves Can this motor be flipped over amd just press the sleeves/liners out Me thinks so Paul

Find a bigger sized nut, slip it over the remainder of the nut shank and really lay into it with the welder It will heat the bahjeebers out of it This will hopefully break everything free then undo If you are worried about the wheel getting damaged, cut some thin tine up to slip over the stud to protect the wheel while welding Might need to use a stick welder to get enough heat transfer, MIG lacks penetration compared to a stick welder Paul

According to Wiki Google, 1973 the cab was given a extra few inches (wouldn't mind a few extra inches myself 😉) and a plastic dash Mack R series - Wikipedia https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mack_R_series The big shock was it says the Superliner was released in 77 Paul

Or just forget all the fancy stuff and go back to plan "A" Once the cranks out, just use the welder and shrink the liners and push them out easily This has been done by hundreds of thousands if not millions of farmers across the world and works just fine If it's a in frame rebuild, some thin tin wrapped around the crank journal and secured with a hose clamp to stop and weld spatter damaging the crank also works Chuck the new liners in the freezer for a few days and sit the block out in the sun on a hot day and a block of wood and just tap them back in Anyway you blokes are all over this Paul

No heat problems here, cold and blowy and pretty miserable 100 is getting pretty miserable to work in Joey can blow some sweat around with his big new fan, should help to keep things drier Paul

Plenty of summer left to fix the bonnet/hood and the steering box You'll be all over this Bob, like a fat kid on a lollipop Paul

Correct, Winfield blue were the smoke of choice for me as a young lad Crocodile Dundee, long before he was Crocodile Dundee used to advertise them Paul

I remember getting pushed down the Mingela to Townsville with nearly a 100 ton pushing me along Tacho needle past any numbers on the tacho, ass fairly sucked down tight on the drivers seat She was a ass puckering experience, fingers nearly snapping the steering wheel, I was hanging on so tight I'm guessing 2600 rpm, valves didn't have to bounce and I was to shit scared to notice ha ha ha Sucking away on a Winni blue cigarette trying to hold it all together Paul

Well she's in bits now, Thats the hard part done, piece of piss now Paul

I leave the air flowing into the tank why I weld the holes Never had a issue, diesel is more dangerous than petrol as the metal absorbs the diesel and it sort of evaporates off as it is welded, can be seen while welding quite easily Once petrol is evaporated it is gone, just something to remember when welding diesel tanks Paul

I have never seen a tang drive, only a dowl pin Paul

No it won't keep it in time properly The pump can move the bolt hole section and I guess other things can move At least this what people that specialize in injector pumps have told me Every time the injector pump is removed the timing must be reset I know your gunna go, that makes sense at all you dumb ass I think the same answer as you and asked a different injector pump place and got the same answer, even asked the pump department at Mack and their specialist man said the same thing My thoughts would be, it can't effect it to much but it must have some effect What ever effect it has will be doubled as the injector pump will spin at half t he speed as the crank ? I wouldn't worry as I would spill time it once the motor is rebuilt anyway As this motor is new to you, you have no idea if it is timed correctly anyway so it can only be a bonus to check it is correct Paul