mrsmackpaul

That's hardly what I call a lump, but for the sake of keeping the peace you can call it a lump 😆 Paul

There is no second hump on a dynatard cam They look almost the same as a non dynatard cam When dynatard is off the exhaust doesn't follow the cam because it can't The exhaust valve is shut and as such it can't travel any further When dynatard is on, the effective push rod length has increased and as such the valve must follow the cam and the exhaust opens just before TDC If we think about the dynatard and all the bits that need to work and be reasonably oil tight and in good working order it is little wonder that there are lots of issues with them as they age Reducing the valve clearance would help as the effective travel needed is reduced to achieve a good result Having said all of the above I feel timing is also critical, as is good mechanical clearances on the rockers gear The little piston in the lash adjuster can't extend fully if it can't be supplied with oil under pressure There's a lot to getting dynatard working fully, more than most of us understand Paul

I think parts still available in Australia Paul

What a good watch that was Unfortunately for the human race, the places we like to live mother nature also likes to burn and flood A lotta good old gear shown there Thanks for sharing Paul

Sorry I own nothing like this, I think ? Got a Matchbox or Corgie or maybe it's Dinky R model and another Im not sure at all what model it is except R model Paul

Paul, don't hold back now tell us how you really feel You need to feel free to share here, have a look for Swishmans thread on Gay Volvo's Farcanel they are either loved or loathed Paul

The cone part of the bearing and the roller part are available in lots of combinations generally So if the outer cone is loose dont dispare as usually different cones of greater out side diameter are available to match the inner bearing You will need a decent bearing retailer that actually knows what they are doing to do this Then get the hub machined out to suit the new cone Or you can weld the hub up and machine it back out to suit, it will be I, imagine cast steel, not cast iron, if it's cast iron machine it out and shrink a sleeve with liquid nitrogen and drop it in, then machine it out to correct size, it will be as good as new No matter which way you choose this isn't a big problem to solve Paul

Yes, happy birthday Hope your having a wow of a time, been a while since we heard from you, to busy having fun I guess Paul

Some lads just getting on with it, not much of that these days in Australia sadly Lot's of high vis clothing and plenty knob heads giving directions that don't know their ass from their elbow Paul

Yes it does, very strange by U.S. standards I guess Mercedes Benz, Man, Leyland, Deutz and probably a lot more And yes on highway high speed jobs Paul

But like many European planetary gears on hubs This allowed for a small diff center Some blokes went to great expense to change ratios only to find it exactly the same The final drive ratio eas in the hub, not the diff center

MAN trucks were like that, German built Paul

Geoff and Joey your both right, the bearing is only cracked My mistake as I miss read it and I guess I mucked it up for others following me So I am thinking the hub is damaged for the bearing to open up that far Paul

Welcome to the forum Paul

Most gear boxes of any design have a ball that drops in notch on the shaft to hold it in gear If the spring fails it will jump out of gear Paul

Get some photos of the offending axle and axle housing Measure the hub, I can see the bearing is busted but can't see the hub damage Can clearly see the axle damage A seal like this will probably work fine here as the rubber bit doesn't spin Paul

Wow, what a shot Great stuff Paul

There is a lot more to propper electrical design than most people think As I said, the rule of thumb works most times but some times it doesn't and them as we can see by photos shared on this thread, the results can be deadly Just everyone be careful, electricity is pretty unforgiving Paul

I can tell many people here are just using rule of thumb type of electrical design But it doesn't always work that way, while most times it does To make sure that a circuit breaker will trip as designed and do it's job of protecting the wire a few things have to be taken into consideration A few more than are mentioned here I guess been a electrician for nearly four decades gives me a different view than most Stay safe out there everyone, don't let the smoke out and remember there's a lot more to propper circuit design than just going up a gauge in wire and chucking a breaker on Generators are only as safe as the installation Some of the answers here aren't exactly safe and people can get hurt in a split second and it is for easy to change your life direction and the lifes of those near and dear to us I could write on and on, but this is one of those things were a little bit of knowledge is very dangerous Paul

I think it should work with a Dynatard cam, I say this because the lifter ram is shorter in normal operation and when Dynatard is on the little ram is extended But I'm expert at this, I have a Jacobs kit for a E6 2 valve maybe 35 feet from were Im standing at the moment I will look into it by trial and era one day when I see if it fits Paul

I thought, bugger me you've been busy in the cold Then I realized you was still patching fiber glass Never mind Paul, get back to work And yes people do pass away from forums and we have no idea most times Paul

There was a thread on this some years ago now Read thru the thread Paul

As Joey sez, more info and we may be able to help Paul

Well I was very impressed with the whole video, and what a truck As far as I know there was only 12V71 TTA in a Australian truck and that was custom built like a custom car or hot rod, chrome and bling everywhere by Australian standards, it was around 600 hp and only did single trailer work That Brockway is stunning Thanks for sharing Paul