Lmackattack

i model after the ic and icg aera on a small HO shelf/dog bone layout.

SD402T are you a train buff also? welcome aboard

My RS has straight rails nose to tail. they taper the top flange of the rails at the front to give more room around the engine compartment. The Steering box is mounted on the outside of the rails. exhaust is routed above the RH rail and runs under the cab. The eastern R models IMO have a better design with the spread rails. this allows better fitment and access to the engine and its componets. Not shure if the trunions differ in width between east and west R models. My RS has "spacer" blocks placed where the trunion and crossmembers bolt to the frame. It looks as if the spacers are about 1/2. that would be about right if the narrow "eastern" rails were bolted directly to the trunion/crossmembers? Trent

I was at the Con Expo Las vegas show last week. My overall thoughts of it was that it looked like a well built truck. I thought it looked tuff and rugged like the old R Macks did. It stood out in macks lineup at the show as the top dog. it kinda Makes a CH/granites look like toys. It shared some traits that were seen on the old Western RS macks The cab is raised up, tall larger hood, air tankes and battery boxes were installed simmilar to a Western. Its the only mack currently offered with the 525??-605HP MP10, Cab was by far the most roomy that I have seen in any conventional Mack. Leg room was great, plenty of head room, dash altho plastic was inline with the design of the trucks fresh looks. Tan Button tuck interior looked like it had plenty of insulation. The only draw backs were in my persional tastes of how some operational and componets could be seen as issues or maintence hastels. The dash looked like it woud be hell to remove if needed to access the back side to add some aux features. the visibility was good for a truck of its size but nothing like a small cab R model. The air cleaners were kinda wierd looking. They were not large and bulky or in the way of visibility but just diffrent from what in used too seeing.The "west coast" mirrors were off looking but like alot of new trucks thats just how they build them. They did not have the hood open when I was there so cant comment on engine fitment and ease of accessing componets. over all I think it will be a good truck for what it was built for. Sleeper cabs are to follow shortly (as I was told) Yes its hard to get used to the diffrent body lines but think it will have its place in the on/offroad markets as long as its priced to fairly compete with the strong holds of long hood pete and KW models Great show overall. I have some pics of the show and will post later. Trent

THANKS FOR THE TIP.. WILL BE THERE THURSDAY CAMERA IN HAND

Chris I will be in Vegas next week also. thursday -sunday... hope its as good looking and set up right like everyone is saying. Trent

a little too flashy for my tastes but glad to see an old dog looking good and still running! Hectorcillo You have some great looking Macks in your country, keep posting!

i could use one if no one steps up! Trent

ok good just wanted to make shure before i go looking for one. Thanks Trent

Do you need a special cam for a Jacobs engine brake on a 285 mack?

mine were 3.87 from the factory (1978) currently i have 4.17 that were pulled from an "F" model Mack cabover, these are of the standard cast iron diffs. My 65 B model has 5.73 cast iron diffs. on alum walking beam. Trent

i believe that you are talking about The diff drop ins. i will have to check my build sheet but i believe my RS mack cam factory with alum drop ins. ? CRD92/93??

Our Local ATHS chapter stopped for some eats 2 years back. here are some photos. Trent

i adjust them the same way you do. Sounds like the valve is bad,bag is bad or a leaky air line. That valve should hold air when parked. only time it should louse air is when the cab moves and alows it to dump. Could you relocate the valve to a place that does not interfear? Trent

Well you have alot of options I guess. You can buy a 80's-90's R model(pre electronic engine). They are cheep, simple and reliable but would likely need to be freshen up as many were rode hard and then parked. If you can hold a wrench it will be a very cheep truck to maintain as all the repairs can be done by you or any mechanic i.e no lap tops needed. If you do any off road work spring ride will be better than air for traction. many R models can be found with air ride cabs to soften the road and come with 285-350HP/ 6,7,8,9,10,12,13,15,18 speeds and a few with air ride rearsif thats what you want. The 90s CH macks are almost as good (my opinion) as the R models. The Ch has a larger cab and has more comfort but I dont think they are owner operator friendly with the electronic engines. they also dont put the HP down like the mechanicals did. The good thing with the CH is that you can easly find them with more options than the R models had. around here the R was a work truck and they were speced that way. The CH has more of a in between mack and thats why you can find alot with air ride and off breed componets. Parts for Ch models are widely availible thry mack.. Sadly R model parts are begining to thin out. so this may be a selling point to you. As far as pulling power in the mountains the R models and CH models cant be compaired to the loog hood OTR KW and Petes as they dont have the cubes under the hood to realy compete in that game. You will find a few "RW" or "CL" that have 500+ power but thay will cost alot more just for the engine option. If you are new to trucking stick to what you know and learn from there. it will save you more in the end and you can always upgrade to a flashy truck later. I run a 30 year old mack part time for the last 3 years. never had it at a dealer yet for repairs. if I cant do it I have a local guy make the repairs at half the cost. cant say that about these new computer trucks.. good luck Trent

http://www.uphs.org/4023move.html

nice rig!

from 0 to 125 psi takes my R model w/new compressor about 4-5 mim at low idle RPM at high idle takes about 3-4 min

UP Big boy 4-8-8-4 p.s look at the front axels

Glad you found part of the problem! let us know how the new nozzels work out.

This place HK?

looking good glad you got her home. some degreaser, and fresh paint should bring her back to life quickly Trent

are the slacks and S-cams greased up good? they can start to stick after sitting long. jack up each corner and see what wheel is not released, the wheels should all turn by hand with not much effort. if that hand brake is the issue the pads are sticking and the mechanics of the assy needs grease or some help. Go for a spin and see if the park brake drum gets warm/hot Trent

Cool find there! Would love to see it in action against the oem engine. Trent

anywhy?....EPA