Lmackattack

welcome to the site! Im from your aera as well..in the far NW suberbs of chicago... Volo aera to be exact.. post a photo of the rig and I will look out for you. Trent

WHAT YEAR R MODEL there are a few diffrent latches throught the years of production. if its a mid 70s-80s it likly has the same striker as mine.. You just need to move the striker up a hair and angle it around untill the door shuts right. also the latch in the door may be worn? I have an issue with my pass side door and its a Real PITA to adjust. every year I have to move it around to get it back to normal. Trent

for a quick fix weld a long bolt to it, cut the head of the bolt off and it will hold just fine. The straps are pricy from mack. I am making 4 straps for the b model for just about the same cost of 1 from a dealer.

I like the green and red paint also. Just freshin it up and she is all good to go. And with spoke rims you have the whole classic mack look in the bag. I also noticed you have the good looking("oldstyle") Sun visor that just about completes everything I would like in a classic R model.

Hey Hotrod Your avitar would make a great set of mudflaps for my mack!!! Its only a 2 stick 6 speed, does that still count?? LOL

also most non air ride cabs used radiator "x" braces from the cowl to the rad top. air ride cabs did not have "x" brace as the rad had braces that bolted to the frame.

the pulling truck we built last summer had the same problem. almost sounded like a rod nock as it would come and go under accell and decell we dropped the oil pan and took the rockers off and found everything was ok. then one day it just stopped knocking LOL..it may have been a stuck lifter but we never found the issue? so far the engine has made 2 sled pull events and ran down the road at 2500RPM and has not missed a beat??

FJH what year did the R600 get a slightly longer hood? (1" or 2" more ?) was around early 80s? i think? i want to say thats when the air to air 300 came out they made the hood a tad longer for the intercooler fitment. iiiii

FJH set me up real good with my 285 mack, He explained how to get my little 6 cly to 25-28psi on good pulls and keep my egts from gong past 1100deg. this is without a front mout air to air (just an charge cooler) if that E9 cant get above 23 psi it may be the reason it has no balls? i have only driven a few V8 macks but i do know that in high range (gearbox)you should keep up with newer trucks with slightly more HP. As FJH said check the linkage. One of the superliners i drove had that junk air throttel and it always gave trouble the older and longer you drove it. is it possible that when the pushrods jumped that the engine hyd locked on a cyl? it may have blown out the Head gasket on that cyl and is now causing some other issue.if the valves were closed and fuel was being injected that can be a problem?? hope you find the problem. Trent

is the timeing off? i believe the maxidynes had diffrent timeing than the econdynes? as far as not walking off the line easy, it could be a few diffrent things... low speed idle set to low, wrong timeing(low power) problem in the gov box... Maxidynes made more TQ down low so this was lost when you switched parts around to a 350 set up. the 350s make there power around 1450RPM and up they tend to fall on there face around 1350RPM. if you say you have power loss up top and down low than i susspect timeing issues... that is if all your 350 parts are correct and your fuel and filters are fresh.

WOW, he shuts down early and just lets her slide in LOL!!!

the lines should break free with a 3/4? open end wrench. Its a tight spot but you can get in there.

the foot valve would be my 1st guess

WTF Volvo!?

I belive the econodynes had higher HP outputs but lower TQ rateings. they needed more gears to pull you as the power band was up top and not as wide as the maxidynes. I think they came in low rpm models and standard 2100 versions and they claim that they were better on fuel.? trentdsf

if you have the same pump it should.. be carefull as the 237 does not have any means to cool the intake air!!! watch the EGT guage closely!

try this Trent MackMechfuelpumpadjustments.doc

THE BOLT THAT HOLDS THE YOKE TO THE SHAFT MAY BE LOUSE OR BACKED OFF A BIT. BEST WAY TO CHECK IS TO REMOVE THE U JOINT AND TIGHTEN THE BOLT WITH AN AIR RATCHET. IF THAT BOLT COMES LOUSE IT GIVES THE BEARINGS SLACK AND THE PINION CAN MOVE A LITTLE. ALSO IF THERE WAS ALOT OF SLACK THE SEAL MAY BE BAD. LOOK FOR OIL LEAKS UNDER THAT YOKE AND CHECK YOUR DIFF OIL LEVEL JUST TO BE SAFE

Ok the rear rear diff is out. not a big job at all (the bolts were easy to remove ). hardest part was the U joint? anyways one thing that bothered me was the milky oil that came out. Just last year i flushed the diffs and last week topped it off with 1 gallon as it has been leaky. where does water get in from?? tomorrow i pick up the faster diffs and remove them from the axel housings..if they look good inside i think i will swap them in and see how the truck runs with them.. Trent

Congrats!!! gotta love those Mack Westerns :ttiwwop:

i would like a little less RPM out on the big roads. Currently i have 4.17 rears and i have the engine wound pretty hard to get to 60MPH i know its not bad for the engine to turn 2000-2100 but its getting old and times have changed. i have access to some 3.87 rears for cheep and they should get my RPM down or my road speeds up. i have driven a few 6 wheelers with 3.87s and i liked how top gear just cruised along at 55-60 MPH. i do get in the mud and rock pits and like to use the low hole to run the truck over soft grounds, saves on the clutch too! i never have been in a bind where the 4.17s and low low could not pull me out .the truck came with 3.87s as it was a road tractor when new. the last owner put the slowerrears in.. i need to reseal the rear rear diff as she leaks... now is the time to replace the rears whats good or bad between the 2 should i stay with the 4.17s or swap in the 3.87s? Thanks Trent

My hayward RS has a flathood? stumps me too

Rob I think this style latch was used up untill the early 80s? not shure but it looks as if my truck came with them as the door catch has no mods or extra holes... When they work right they are easy to open and close. but when they wear they are a pita to find the sweet spot... I have seen guys with late 60s R models that have this style and they work so well that your pinky can open the door inside and out. for me I have to pull hard on the inside and push my thumb hard on the outside... I did replace the passenger side latch and its still a little hard to use... Trent

the pic on the left Rob Trent