Lmackattack

What is the APE# stamped on the fuel pump for . is it a calabration for a specific engine. We have a few old spare fuel pumps but have no clue what they came off of. We want to put one on our pulling truck. hoping one is a 300HP model Thanks trent

Brad thats a retired Tanzillo truck #5 That PJ his brother Anthony and I are building for fun and a few laughs. Mr Tanzillo was trying to sell it but he had no buyers for it all last year. So he gave it to us to mess with We tinkerd with a diffrent turbo before the pull but we think it was to big for the little 237 to spin as all it would do is 7 psi. The local mack mechanic turned it way up but still wouldent get the turbo awake. We put a 350 turbo on it from a truck in the yard tonight and it was making 20 psi so we might take it to belvedere (sp?) this thursday for a pull. Were not shure what a stock 237 turbo makes for boost anyone have a clue?? My truck pulled to 220 feet. spun the wheels all the way down the damp track. when the weight came up I stopped but the wheels kept spinning, tried to pull out of the hole in 4th low but the clutch said no so went back to 3rd low "Last call" pulled to 206.66 feet ..... slow out of the gate it started to wake up about 100' mark but the turbo dident want to get up. it powered out in 2nd direct Both trucks have a 6 speed an 4.17 rears. Maxville Trucks with springs get the traction but the air ride trucks can do just as well if they mess with the ride hight valves to over inflate them. There is a guy with 2 E9 superliners with lots of engine work that makes it to 290'+ almost every pull. The hitch is connected to the 5th wheel as seen in the pics. the hitch is 30" off the ground (adjusted) and the chains go to the bottom most part of the sled. Im not shure how much weight is transfered to the tandems when the weight is up?A friend has a 400hpE7 and a 12 speed he does pretty good as he has better gear selection than my 6 speed.Your E9 is a powere house just bring it to a pull stock to get a base line run, then if your not happy start spending mony on injectors and pump work, turbos etc... pick a gear that will get you to about 15-20 MPH if your cluth can handel it. dont pick to low of a gear as you will snap something alot easyer. Just talk to the other guys at te track. if like the guys i pull with they will help you. trent

a few shots from yesterday

lake county fairgrounds truck and tractor pull Friday the 27th located at Rt 120 and Rt45

Rob i was told not to grease up the bushings as it helps push them out faster? i wonder what others think? My opinion is that they should have some lube to help them wiggle on tight turns but thats just my .02 As for the caps i have seen them snap as well (on my truck) i just bought new ones as mine were worn from old age

I bought "mack red" from a local PPG paint dealer. if no one responds to this thread before i get back in town next week i will get the code off the my gallon can. i just walked into the store and they found the code for me. Trent

seen a few black legends but green seams the most popular

check the air lines first to see if they are kinked. If they look kinked or badly worn replace them. then look for a bad air cyl ( I belive the cyl is on the top cover?)that selects direct reverse etc.... If the cyl is good it could be a bad shift fork or bad rails again these parts are accessed through the top cover. My experince with air shift 6 speeds was that you would hear a hard grind if you selected a direct or low when rolling backwards or vise versa. also if I shifted to direct from low when rolling along it would grind kinda loud. at a stop the splitter should easly select the desired range with a soft clunk heard. just my .02

"EDIT" look on the drivers side of the engine on the intake runners for a sencer tapped into the casting, or look for a rubber hose that goes to a sencer. I belive he wants to trick the sencer to make the engine think its working less/harder? ie computer adds more fuel/less fuel etc...

Found it in my back yard last week. i had a purple 65 3 years ago but some vandals tourched it wile parked in a construction yard. will look real good trailerd behind my 65 B when ever i get done with it http://invite.filmloop.com/x?u0m8EMc8Ho4KN.../9Hcn9QCCUul2lH

THANKS FOR THE INFO guys. I have a solenoid from a R model dash that I will be using for under the dash on my B. The wierd thing is that my RS I dont hear that "click" when I turn the key. I will have to check to see if there is one there? I know the temp guage will not work if the jey is off but all the lights, acc, and pretty much the whole elec system works with the key off?? I should have the fuse panel tomorrow and start wireing in a few days

Im installing one of those painless wiring fuse blocks this weekend. I also have a silinoid i want to install that will turn the system on with the turn of the ign key. how does this all wire up so that the fuse panel is hot only after the silinoid is actavated. I assume that the ign has a hot lead after you turn it to "run". this hot lead should then be wired into the silinoid to turn on the fuse panel? does this sound correct? if so then where dose the hot lead to power the fuse panel wire up to? sorry if its confusing to explain

I blame this ULSD for all the fuel leaks that I have now. Injectors,delivery valves, lines etc... Im chasing all these issues about a month after the fuel came out But its good for the enviroment and that makes me feel like want to go hug trees

you have it labled correctly... you back off the nut on the left. turn it out a few flats then grab the rod and twist it untill the left nut makes contact with the bridge again. then hold the rod steady and tighten the nut on the right. the correct way would be to flow test the pump to see how far beyond spec it is but it will do the job and still be safe if you dont throw to much fuel at it. The RPM adjustment is under a plate at the bottom rear of the box. Be safe and remember to count the turns of the nut or rod as you may need to reset it? Not shure of the diffrence between american and robert bosch pumps?

undo the lock nuts on the rod (located the right side of the gov box when facing the side of the engine) and turn the rod a few flats(of the nut, ballpark 2-4 flats) then tighten them making shre the rod does not move. If I remember you want the rod to move towards the front of the truck to get more fuel. someone correct me if im wrong on the direction for more fuel.. now watch your boost and EGTs and make shure its not to much. also watch your wallet at the pump LOL :bmod1: Trent

Premo restoraton job. Larry I bet you had a smile ear to ear sitting in that truck

gotta love the maxdynes for that low end grunt.. and nice landng!!!! Those heavy mack rears wont take no for an answer!

Thats good news Dan Are you having the late 70s style interior with the plastic headliner made or the more current mid 80s and up with the vinal headliner? I would be intresed in both regardless. Any chance of a Bulldog embossed in the door panels???? just Wishfull thinkingLOL Trent

R is just the sieres . The Early "RD" models were basicly overbuilt R models mainly used in heavy offroad fields. Dont know exactly what the D stands for ? The early RDs Had steel butterfly hoods. at some point they offered one pice fiberglass hoods. Look on the pass side inner frame rail just foward of the front axel. Look for a VIN number stamped there ..."RD688SX" etc.....

its a TV show so they will build a flashy truck to suit the majority of the public to the "WOW factor" Regardless its a mack and its going to be shown with respect (hopefully!!!)

nice to see someone that takes pride in there equipment

I swapped out a cab on my B model project and the only diffrence I had was the removable floor pan had a diffrent hole cut in it for the gear levers. this was a "standard" B61 cab. Air ride would be neet but The butterfly hood would be a task to make it all work and not scratch the hell out of the paint. the radator would need stiffner braces that bolt to the frame rails, and a modified crossmember (rear cab brace) are just some of the issues I would see.

some people will unscrew the handel and put heater hose on the stick

The mack 5 and 6 speeds make long slow shifts if you dont use the clutch brake. If im heavy or on a Ramp I will short shift 1-2-3 (without help from the clutch brake)and then wind the hell out of 4th and stay there untill its flat ground. Most steep hills I pull I wont shift past 3rd. I can make it to the top of 3rd but trying for 4th is not going to get me there any faster and will just cause me to louse momentem. as far as the grinding. a little light pull on the stick is ok. You will feel a slight grind and as it slows it sould fall right in to gear. the old mack engines like to lug low 1100 -1200 rpm is where it makes its power. if it is not pulling out of that rage just stay there or downshift back to the next lower gear

Made a little headway last week working on the air system. I took a 24/24 can off a wrecked truck and it fits my B model with no interfearance issues. This chamber that i took off the wrecked truck is slightly smaller than the 24/24 that I bought from a truck parts store last year. I here people sometimes mention a "maxi can" So now I got a few question. 1) Are maxi chambers mfg for/by Mack? 2) Is a maxi any diffrent than a standard parking brake chamber? 3) do maxi have a smaller overall dia for fitment reasons Thanks Trent