AZB755V8

That is a nice job. Only there are no grass clippings... it looks too good! OSHA would have a problem with it these days having no guards. I made a lot of money working on that stuff over the years. Then I started to mess with Mack's.

That is EZ... They shine when you step on the pedal and really comes to life. Pro: Owning one. Con: Wishing you owned one and asking why you should have one. Pro, Pro: Owning more than one, knowing how to work on it and having parts. Con,Con: Finding one that is toasted and needs a lot of work, cant work on it yourself...$$$ to fix no one really around to work on them anymore and no parts.

I got actually three tanks, one for a spare, from, www.truck parts inventory.com for $125 each. They have the photo and size of the tanks, there are 118 Mack tanks as of this morning. Call them to ask if the ones you are interested in are one or two compartment and how many ports. The ones I got polished up real nice and one had a small dent from a rock underneath that could not be seen until polished. I did have to plug a port or two. Had them in 4 days UPS. It might work for you.

Think we had a topic on air tanks before. Welding on air tanks is a bad idea. Just as I would not weld up brake drums, Brakes and air is nothing to mess with. This is one part I would find good used ones or if new was available opt for them even at the cost. Bought nice used aluminum 2 tank set for $250, each tank was $625-675 new each. I think if a DOT stop found welded up air tanks they would have it towed on the spot, with special instruction, as the tow air runs though the system too. I have welded fuel tanks but they hold no pressure with no problems.

Sometimes it is just good to go with what is there. The turbo shop should be able to get more out of your unit with a rebuild and wheel change. A good running 237 is a tough engine to beat and many, millions of, miles have been put on them. Had a friend that has a real good 237, Triplex combo in a B, the truck just plane hauled... Trans would be questionable if running with that torque fully loaded for a long time. I get in race mode even with these old truck, always can get more out of them but at a cost....

Yep, 15psi is on the low side and the turbo is showing signs is age as Larry states. Leaks are alway possible, check the stamped steel intake seams. A sudden drop in 2psi could be weather, leak or the turbine giving up. It is easy enough to pull the exhaust and look into the turbine to see if more damage has happened. A good used E7 turbo should not be more than a few hundred bucks. Newer Tech and had more boost to start with, a day at the most for the swap.

Just a thought on this.... What were the weather conditions, Temp, Hg pressure and humidity had a effect on how an engine runs. I think you drag race, same setup and one weeks runs to the next can be off quite a bit. Maybe the old girl was having a bad day, There is a lot of low pressure in your area now with the storms. Back years ago I could fell the difference in the power of my old MOPAR with the change in weather. Some nights it was a dog others nothing could touch it. Only thing was everyones car was doing the same thing... we all had fasters times. When EGT goes up, turbo efficiency goes down. I would bet that you take it on another run in cooler dryer weather your temps will be down and boost will be up. 1000 degrees should not hurt the turbine, I start backing off at 1100. It does seem that at that high temp, boost levels out. A newer turbo off a mechanical E7 would be a good upgrade, another 10-15 psi in boost would be a big kick in the rear. Only keep track of engine temp.

Mig welding is the way to go. Get some round bar stock, 8620 would be a good steel to use, and turn it down on a lathe to fit tight in the holes, cut it an 1/8 inch longer than the rail thickness. Weld around it and grind down to flush with frame. Smaller than 3/8 inch holes just fill in with weld from both sided.

If you can turn the cable from inside the truck there is the problem. You should not be able to turn the cable any more than maybe a quarter turn before it binds up. If it is tuning freely the cable tip going into the square drive in the trans is not engaged to the tip of the cable. If you just replaced the inner cable it maybe to short to the length of the outer, a 1/4-1/2 inch is all it has to be short and not work. I converted mine to a electronic setup along with the Tach drive and have not had cable problems sense.

I had it done to a fiberglass KW sleeper top. One of the old Aerodyne's for my Superliner, to get the Aussie look. The guy that did the soda blast knew his stuff. Yes he did Vett's and anything else. He could use gravel down to walnut shells and had it all. The soda does work but depending on the quality and condition of the fiberglass the result will vary. Unlike 41chevy the fiberglass in my sleeper was very poor quality and had a lot of cracks from age. The soda will open them up and take off very thin gel coat which most truck fiberglass has. The option of using chemicals is really bad as it will get into the porous layer and never come out. You will never have a good paint job with the possible blistering later on. Only way to prep is mechanical sanding or soda blast, sand blasting is to abrasive for fiberglass.

There are some good body fillers products out there that work great. Be prepared to pay for it, last gallon I got was $85. I must be getting old, I remember when a good gallon was $20... There is nothing like good clean rails, a lot of guys comment on my trucks and ask if the rails are new, no they are not just a lot of work and some body filler. Weld up the big pits and holes, I hate unused holes... Start with a clean decent pair helps too. I have reframed one and doing a second to have original uncut or sliced frames but that is extreme. Filler is like Dave's Redhot... I put that shit on everything, just in moderation and good taste. 1st The start of restoration a Texas one owner B75, 2nd Worked on original B rails from California, 3rd Finished B-755

Only thing I found was rod bearings are still available. I believe they are the same as the E9. All else.... well good luck. I rebuilt my 866 is 1996 and parts were becoming scarce then. There was only one part number left for standard main bearing out of 3. Plus they were $255 for just the main set at Mack. Just one ring set was close to $100 back then or $800 for a complete set!! Have not heard of head gaskets even for a long time... don't pull the heads or if, be really carful to reuses the gaskets with sealer. If you find parts let us know I would be interested. The days of running the old V8's is done, no parts. I have one as a hobby engine in my B, it is the one I rebuilt years ago, but most guys don't even know what it is. Wish it was not so but the E9 is not far behind, very few know much about them anymore, less know how to work on them and parts are getting harder to get too.

Taking a closer look at that engine, those are E9 heads. Same bore but bigger stroke. Still wonder why it got shelved??

All the new spare French Military E9's came back to the States a while ago. There were about 10-14 of them and Dale Francis has them now. I saw a few there at his place... way cool to see but sadly they are all getting parted out. There was some major issues getting them back in the USA and they can not be sold complete due to emissions. Not being US emission certified is what he said. There are about 10-12 more take outs over there but... the hassle of getting to them. If you had a big wad of cash I bet one could go out the back door.

Just got back from Canada with 2 MH's, loose E9 with Eaton 13sp and parts from Carl. Sorry I did not look you up but it was a marathon run up there. I left Monday at 11am, got back Saturday at 1am and 3341miles later on the Superliner. That was with 21 hours to load, hotel in BC, Border wait and Customs clearance. It was the only time I could get the trucks before he moved out of the farm. Will have photo's posted soon. As for worth of an MH it is not much past the value of the drive train. Just like Superdog said before, Sad but true most guys get them for parts only. I know of a few that went for less than $3-4K running with E9's. Carl had 7 MH's on the farm, there are 3 left, one whole the other 2 carcass's for scrap, picked clean... Think I am going to keep one and scrap the other.

Sounds like the cam timing is off. You may have the marks in the idler right but are the marks right to the crank? Just thank goodness you did not have valves hitting pistons!!! We need more info to help you. Just a story but: My brother rebuilt a 350 Chevy and swore he had ALL the timing makes right to time the cam. It just would not start but did impressive backfires... long story short, it was out of time and there were more than one mark on the gear, he used the wrong ones. he got it right and that thing ran like a raped ape...

Man that is a beautiful interior, GREAT job, lets seeee the rest of the truck!!! Correct coloring, nice seats,air shift... whats is not to like.

The handles are there to hold on too... When you are cleaning the windshield about the only thing to grab if you loose your balance is the windshield wiper, the handles are sure handy. I got duel air cleaners on mine and have to grab the top of them when standing on the battery covers and cleaning the windows. Don't thing they are automatic but are on a lot of Superliners. Radio antennas are on my mirror brackets. AM/FM is out the roof.

Any Mack engine between 237-300hp would be a good choice, 70-80's vintage. The limiting factor is the Triplex transmission you want to keep. Depends how you are going to use the truck. The torque from any of these engines is over what the trans can handle on a daily bases. If you take it easy with the right foot and are the only one driving it may stand a chance pulling loads. You can always turn down the injection pump to limit the power output as well. In that case any of these engine will out live you with no problems, the trans.... maybe.

I thought that is what you had on your truck now but modified. I don't know what the spec. is on the John Deere turbo but the Borg Warner S400 has only been out for about 3 years in this size and has extended vane tech and some other new stuff in it stock. It is a 3.9 inlet and my old Holset was a 3.6. The exhaust side was to big for the rpm's that are needed at cruise speed with my truck now. So I went smaller on the exhaust and bigger on the intake side to bring the surge line down to 1400-1500rpm's hopefully.

It does not matter how high it is turned up. The right foot and your brain control everything. The engine will make more smoke and power than you can every stand or use. Fuel consumption is a factor of your right foot. Go above 65mph and fuel use is on the rise just like any truck out there pass 80mph and your fuel milage sucks. A 450hp E9 will do 75-80 easy if geared right with 80k GVW but figure a mile or more loss per gallon. I can say that at 450 or 500 HP E9 is a good reliable engine. If you know how to work on them it is not a problem turning up the HP but things are going to break. Maybe not the engine first but it will. Trans, driveshafts and rears are not rated at 2000 plus ft/lbs of torque for hours of use. Parts are pricy and not that easy to fine these days. Mine is really turned up and as of now and it is getting turned back down. You can't really run more than 500-600 hp on the road reliably. Turning up the RPM's is how you get power too but my T2018 does not like to shift above 2000rpm's and starts to make noise at 3000rpm's. It matters what you want to do with it. Sled pulling is not an everyday thing and I can tell you that a truck set up for that will not make a good everyday machine. Mine is now a Retired sled puller.

Saw your truck at the show but not that turbo. What can yo tell me about it? From what I have been told NEW Tech design is far better than the old Holset T5 I just destroyed. I hope to have it back together next week and ready to go to Canada to get the three E9's I bought there in February.

Got the engine taken down today. One of the exhaust seats came apart and chewed up the piston, liner, head and turbo. Think the head is actually repairable but piston, liner and turbo are toast. I was going to change out the turbo anyway after this trip, it was just too big to run on the road with a trailer. Have to cut her back on the Horse Power and be more drivable. Turbo did not really start working until 1900rpm. Got a Borg Warner S400-91 to install and should come in around 1400-1500rpm. Yep a lot of water under the tires at 55mph is not a good thing, slowed down to 40 after the Holly Crap moment!!! r

I finally brought 2 trucks to the show from Arizona. Just short of 2500 miles. It was truly a great experience and a first big outing of the 88 Superliner for me. It was a shake-down cruise and not without issues. There were 4 really bad crashes, Texas, PA, Indy & Oklahoma and 2 burnt down to to nothing trucks, Missouri & Arizona fires along the way. On the way out, went through the storm of storms in PA, Scared the SHIT out of myself on the PA Turnpike, YES you can hydroplane a 25 ton Semi even with new rubber. The show was the Best of the Best and a record number of trucks at 703. I met some really Great people there and talked some good "truck" with most. The onsite show dinner was Great, Thanks to Darrel, Bill, Eric & all for the Great eats, and the left overs the next day. Going out the E9 was not running like it should around Tulsa and had a strange sound when getting out of the throttle and was down a little on power... Going back, Got to Toledo, OH and stopped for fuel, Bad sounds and something tinging the exhaust turbine. Yep dropped a valve in #6 Cylinder, Had two options, stop and find a repair shop that could work on an E9 in maybe a week or two or Drive it 2000 miles home... After a moment of thought and figuring the repair bill, started out for home. Smoking like a bitch and down on power and a mile per gallon on fuel got her home. Even running bad she kept up with most anything running out there. I have a new found respect for an E9. I love them but hate them too. So far I am tearing it down and hopefully need only a head and a piston. But a load of work in a 110 degree garage is not fun. Will have photos of damage soon.

A nice Mack 5 speed behind that Maxidyne you just put in would be a factory match. It's got the torque and RPM range to pull through those gears. Only issue would be overdrive. A 12 or 14 series Fuller 9 or 13 speed would be a good choice for OD and makins of a low flyer... Don't know about bellhousing change or spacer for single disc clutch but parts are available.