MACKTRUCKS4

When mine broke, the driver said the same thing, heard nothing, felt nothing. Pulled out from a stop, first , second, third, and nothing

If memory serves me right, the soft plug in the back of the trans for the shift rail needs to come out. When you slide the rail out the front, the rail hits the clutch before there is enough room to install the new fork. The old one may come out because it is in pieces. Also when you are in there make sure you check the main shaft to make sure it did not sheer in 2 because this happened to me. When the shaft broke, it caused the fork to brake. I put the new fork in and the truck still had no 4th and 5th. because those 2 gears run through the main shaft. I had a hard time seeing the shaft was broke because of the way it broke. It almost looked like it was cut with a saw.

If you have the money, do an in-frame. Someone might have had a problem with the motor and started looking for the problem. Have the heads done, new pistons, rings, liners, and bearings. Than you'll know what you have. Good luck and welcome to the jungle.

I got a lot of Bobby's stash before he passed except for the B. He got most of the NOS parts when Craig's Mack garage closed. My father-in-law is first cousins with Bobby. He was going to teach me how to shift the quad box but now I'm teaching myself with the help of YouTube. LOL When you drive into Tomhicken, at the cross roads, turn left and on the left is the B models, If you turn right at the cross roads, about 120 yards up the hill, is my house and shop on the right.

I need an oil pan. How much?

I thought the rockers are the same as the E-6'S?

I know the answer. I was there about 2 weeks ago. The B model was a friend of mine that passed away several years ago. But I'll keep it our little secret. The Magnum needs a frame (double frame spreading) Was this the B?

I'm confused, WHY did you take the cab off to change the brake shoes? LOL I've only had to remove the steering wheel to change mine. But that's because the nut was loose that was holding it. LOL

I had Dale build my turbo and I also picked up the exhaust turbo mount,(which he rebuilds because they often crack and also ware out). He re-bushed all the parts I needed but some are still available from mack but salty.

I used a shifter from a CH, had to bend it into shape to work in my superliner, but that made it shorter so I made a short threaded rod to bring the shifter up a little. About 3 inches.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281766647496?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D281766647496%26_rdc%3D1

Very COOL

Ok, now that I stumped the best of you's, I think I found the problem but I for the life of me , can't figure out why. On the dash valve there was 4 lines running into the valve. Supply, delivery, a line running to a dash valve that activates the tractor protection valve and the exhaust. Someone had a line running from the exhaust to the upper half of the foot valve, so when you pushed down on the foot valve, it would pop the valve out. The problem I have is the lines is a copper line just like the rest of the lines and it looks like it belongs there. Does anyone have any idea where this line should go? The exhaust line I get, just run it outside the cab to exhaust outside. But why was it hooked up to the foot valve? Remember this truck has roto-chambers and not maxi's. Now I know why no one had this happen to them. Someone connected the lines wrong.

My 1964 B-model has roto-chambers that work the parking brake on the rear axle only. These are not maxi brakes. When i build air pressure and release the parking brake (single valve on the dash) the brakes release just fine but when I push down on the brake pedal hard, it pops the valve out. If I hold down on the foot valve, I don't hear any air leaking anywhere and I try to push the parking brake in, there is no air at the valve and it won't release. I let up on the foot valve and it works. I changed the foot valve but no luck. It looks like the dash valve is new so I'm thinking someone else tried that but no help. I'm thinking a check valve or maybe another valve somewhere is hanging up. Any thoughts?

It's on a plate mounted on the left rear side section of the trans. Follow the air line from the trans air filter to the regulator. You should not pre-select a 12 speed trans because it will shift the first chance the gears free up even if your not ready.

If you look at the add closer, they have "2" for sale.

no connection http://www.ebay.com/itm/73-Mack-RS700L-8v-71-Detroit-13-spd-Fuller-/201361575950?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2ee215d00e&item=201361575950

Fourth from the left standing, macktrucks4, Mike

1989 FXRS, 113 S & S

I need the bracket that mounts the hood to the hinge. These are the 2 pieces, on on each side of the hood that the 2 bolts that go through the hood from the out side hold. Any idea on what they are called?

After the first fill (new or a rear change) check the levels at all fill plugs with the rears warm. It takes time for the gear oil to move to the bottom. If you check it cold, the bottom will be over filled but you can't tell by how much. This is how the mack manuals say how to check them.

Does anybody have a left side vent window they want to part with? I can't find them new and 3 trucks I have are cracked.

The guy that had mine before me went crazy thinking it was a head gasket. Turned out to be two sleeves had pits in it from age. Drop the pan.

I'll be there with the Superliner and a B in tow, just don't know which one? One of the B's I want to sell or maybe the B755(not for sale)

The trans that locks in low range is the 12 speed. The 6 speed should NOT be used to split every gear except first. The bearing in the trans that is used for low range is NOT designed to spin at higher speeds and the bearing ends up failing. I am not sure if there is a 6 speed that is an overdrive..