j_martell

Ill go in there now...

....i can check the diagrams in the granite when i get to work tomorrow and post a pic...might give some insight

Likely because both the rubber block suspensions mount via a cross member right in the centre of the tandem, with torque rods fore and aft, spreading the load better across the frame. easy to have a cross member--> Torque rod -->centre section --> torque rod -->cross member. Versus the AR2 with the mounts to the frame ahead, and both torque rods aft, placing all the stress behind the cross member.. best you could get is the mount, then both torque rods, then a cross member, leaving a large amount of un-reinforced frame to take the stress. I hope that makes even 1/3 the sense it did in my head lol

Its just telling you there's an electronic fault. If its flashing, it could be that its inactive when you try to get the blink code. But, as far as I know, it will still give you some kind of confirmation that there are no codes when the blink test is preformed. Someone with more knowledge than I will be along shortly....

i have blocks in both trucks...and while they are AWESOME in the muck, they ride like crap empty.....ive been bugging the boss since i found out about the AR2 to convert the Granite, for my comfort and to save the beating on the truck and the bins/equipment i haul. after putting nearly 120,000$ into the RD, hes a bit gun-shy..... 2011 Granite has this, with Meritor Rears 1989 RD has this, on Mack Top-loaders. Both can supposedly be converted to this:

the crane rental guys we deal with have the air over walking beams front and rear on most of the bigger units. the operators love them. all that i have spoken with say they ride great and still have the travel/articulation of rubber block/spring walking beams when the pavement runs out. they also have retrofit kits for Haulmaxx etc rubber block walking beam equipped trucks.

From an Emissions Fault book i have on my iPad. Sorry i cant help with the trouble shooting steps, thinking its might need to go to the dealer...

every truck ive ever driven (yep....all three of them lol) have been set by (but not exclusively) by turning the cruise on, using the foot throttle to attain the revs, and hitting "set" the volvo feed truck would grab 1400rpm if i was off the clutch and brake and hit "resume" on the stalk. thats what the visor said was the operating speed of the blower, it was a bulk feed blower truck. 1650 for the transfer unit operation...

not around here....they own the tractor (maybe)....normally a beat-to-death white volvo or freightliner....and pull what-the-hell-ever @ 10KMH below the limit in the middle lane.....

Both the granite and the RD have that pedal. I prefer it over the rubber covered ones.....even muddy/dirty boots still find grip.....pain in the ass to clean tho lol

Sad news. My condolences. its been law in ontario for a few years to slow down/move over for Police/EMS/Fire (red and blue or just red lights) with the lights on, and just recently updated to include Tow trucks/road crews (amber lights)....but people still dont get it... while i dont do it often, there are times i have to drop machines on the road because i cant get into the site, or need to use the street to switch bins, due to lack of space, and it scares me....not much spooks me, but emerging from between the front of the bin and the back of the truck does it....i always peak out first, but the speed some of these cars means its clear when i look and they come flying out from behind the bin as i step out to go back to the cab. I learned one day a few years ago that i could jump from the ground to the fender in one move...caught that fucker out the corner of my eye, had i not made it up there, he would have taken my legs...the guy running the kettle for the roofer saw the whole thing, and took off after the car...

That's what we did back in high school when we put a 5.0l and five speed from a 80 something f-150 in a 91 explorer (no 5.0l that generation). Brought the machine shop both drive shafts and the measurements, and he made it work and look good.

The pump could be getting weak....

Use the hand throttle to wind the motor up to 1200(ish)rpm and soak all the intake hose connections with soap and water mix. Best bet would be when it's doing a "passive regen" (?), not sure if the MP8 is the same, but my MP7 runs about 5 psi boost when this occurs....

Any info on this? i seem to recall somethings a long while back, but can't for the life of me find it.... anyone have any insight?

What motor is in the MR? 1200-1900rpm is the sweet spot on the MP7 in my GU. It'll pull from 1000rpm, but hates it, and is lazy as hell until 1200, then it wakes up

....just needs some 425's on the steers....lol sharp looking RD

^^ what he said. You should be able to see fluid in the housing of the thermometer with the box down. Both my roll offs have the sight glass with no thermometer...keep it above half when the frames down and the cables all the way out. also, with some lifting/turning/tilting all at once, the strainer should come out.

Any work lights or strobes?? Or remnants of such??