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Yup the gd crutch!We have had our share of this,The guided diag thing is a bit of a joke as well you can spend a good day doing all the steps in the dam thing and still come up with a dry hole!O the dpf is pluged well how did it get pluged all the temp readings were right,!As wrench said you can't read how the engine is running cause all of our sences have been taken away no smoke to read nothin, only a half baked computer program to look at that gives you half the story! 68 Don't get me all fired up on the meritor issue!The prostitutes of the parts world!The copy cats of the truck industry!There aint nothin they can't copy and screw up!

To Make sure were talkin apples to apples!The hose from the puff limit to the fuel pump should be capped off ! as Glenn pointed out.

Thanx for chiming in!I sumwhat agree with some of your comments Yup we need help lots of it!If Barry will see to it that you can join in on the Corporate forum Please get signed up. You will see what is being talked about. Your help will be greatly appreciated As for the mp ten we have only two here running the hyw and off road yup they need to buy better wiring. and Its nice to work on in the Titain which right now is the only model its offered in! As for bullet proof The mp engines replaced an already bullet proof engine that had the same crap bolted to it which also ruined that engine The base engine was good the bolt ons were trash as they are on the volvo Engine!The diffrence being it was easier to work on than the mp engines . you'll have to pardon my negitivity towards the mp but the out landish flat rate times they give you to do stuff is rediculus to say the least. Just getting to do half the tests you have to do for some of the most stupid problems that have already been learned by mack we are doing the same stuff over agian! I would really like you to take part in the corporate forum PLEASE contact BARRY and GET signed up Bro.

acording to the codes on this site http://www.nortrux.c...hp?page_id=1033 the fan is not working correctly!that should not affect the running of the truck! An 8-1 code would !No#1 unit pump failer!

Well thanx for the post!I aint never adjusted a wheel that way in 35 years of truck work But if thats a proper way then fine.

Burried where on the site?

You need to count the bull and spur too, there CAN be a difrence there as well!Pull the fill plug on the rear diff and count the teeth thru the hole! Jack it up and have somone turn the wheel and count!other wise you'll be in the same pickle jar!Make sure the rear matches the front!

SO the question IS practicality! THE Answer in my mind is NO! Not practical.

You'll have a nice lawn orniment when your done thou!

OK you 2, I seen this comin ! I'll nibble! I think it would be too costly to do! To time consuming to do ! Maybe once youv'e made your second Million and your semi retired then get a donor truck and swap all the wiring stuff over into your CH and Jerrys CX then it will be worth it!Dont forget the engine brain is on the other side of the engine on the older trucks theres a lot more to this than just poping off a turbo. And removing the egr cooler crap! huge can of worms! Just my opinion!

Naw My manual would resemble a comic book with hyrogliphics! unFortunatly those poeple are writers and don't know the open end from the ring end of a wrench !The guy I REALLY want to meet thou, is the guy that does the flat rate times for the new engines and stuff, He will be a true ledgend!These guys are greased lightning compared to almost anyone ,They do any job Twice as fast as anyone I Know , in almost All cases.AND the engines and stuff they work on work flawlessly when they are done.If you read the manual AND all the stuff they can acomplish in the Time given Its inspiring, He must be an Icon. That Guy is one Guy I would love to meet! maybe, His Greatness will Rub off on me, Heres for hopen! Untill then though I'll just GET IT DONE and hope for the best. honestly the american manuals arent to bad. You work on so Korean or Japan made stuff the translating is real poor! Its a real double wammy!

any one got an xray gun I can borrow so I can check the pump LOL! james Fresh Out Bro! Ahh yes Water pump Time!

Gambi How are you checking it Bro?Are you preasuring it up? Or are you just looking? Preasuring it up is the ONLY sure Fire way of finding leaks, And you need to Preasurize EVERYTHING at once the tubo the after cooler and the engine! I'm Not Trying to degrade you in any way!But somtimes people think just looking is good enough!Its NOT! If you havent already done so, your going to have to make testing equipment a rubber hose that will fit the turbo snail inlet and a bung to plug that with put regulated air to it 30-35 psi You may only need 10- 15 to find what your looking for cause it sounds like A big leak to me!You may also need to turn the engine sum to get the preasure to biuld and it will .If you don't find anything the turbo May be At fault I have seen turbos that will not spool properly right out of the box! But It sounds like a leak to me! Fred

Anything is posible with A little money I guess!Is It worth It???

Lower stat is a lower stat It will open lower but still be open That probly won't fix the problem. i like the water pump check idea makes sence! Like I said let us know how it goes with the cooler change if it does the trick or not!

Guess thats worth a try if ya got the hose Glenn! This is a real valid thought! Check into that one! I have seen the wrong water pump put on and the truck over heats (pully to small or to big).

We got our first plate in!I made it up last week took ten minutes and a peice of 1/8 plate ,We'll see!???? Haven't heard back on the results yet!Heres for hopen! I'm still a little leary on turbo wheel speed!

68 350-400 hp were Vmac the 300 could be either or in this vintage! If its mechanical there is a screw under the lever on the side of the pump the rear ward screw adjusts the idle!I belive 8 mil or 10 mill wrench to do the job. You can, If its turned on in the puter adjust the idle with switches as well if its Vmac!

First off Id check for Boost leaks High pyro indicates among other stuff lack of air!Pluged air filter poor turbo performance yada yada Before spending big bucks! Just my two cents

Well if Hes a bro and you want to help out then Its A call that you got to make! Its a truck, trucks break! Can he help keep the bandaids on! I'd feel better putting him in an older unit Sumthing I new wasn't going to break down leaving him with decisions to make with your money is all! Just somthing to think on!

Man you done everything your doing the last resort thing now!Let Us know how it goes!!!!!! Your in the era for casting sand in the block I beleive, was there ever any compressor over heat problems? Also low liners! has it been blowing coolant out?Or over preasuring the rad?We had one truck 2000 era blowing water filters off!Bubble tests don't work well as you can't check under load Been my observation the gas test kits are junk on a diesel engine they show nil! Just guessing but If this cooler don't do the trick Liners would be my bet! I think your real close for time on the cooler change out! Just some thoughts

I Can tell you tell ya that the truck was dressed out at our shop on Vancouver Island and made its way to the other side of the Nation! http://nanaimomack.com/ Check out westcoast edition! As for buying another truck Naw two headaches.Ya can't count on somone else to do the job properly!Your just buying him a job!

This here is too vague. Is this a VMac engine?What is fairly common on a vmac pump is the rack actuator fails!In this case the pump has to come off to be repaired! HK brings up a good point is the dash lighting up when the key is turned on?The acc relay will cause the heater and dash not to work! And will not let theengine light up!

I agree its time to count!