theakerstwo

I dont know what they look like but if they are straigh then a B model can be shorten as well as a straight blade on a freightliner or pete. I have done this for my B model by sawing off the ends to the right length. There is a parts store in Rome Ga that sells parts like that and motors also and i can find his # if you need it. glenn

A tip turbin set up was great and it was the best thing at that time but dont go back to that from a air/ air because you would not like your self and like already stated it may not bolt up anyway. glenn

I have seen it and it is been around for a while .It is a water/ fuel seperator. I cant think of the brand name of it.IT.

This is just a coment not a solution to the problem but i have seen many clutch brakes that have failed and i think ever one i saw was due to the pressure plate was not adjusted right meaning that the brake was trying to stop the gears from rolling before the clutch plates release. That can be caused from not enough clearance between the throw out brg and the trans. from misadjusting or it could be a srewed up clutch not going to release if adjusted right or wrong. I dont think you are going to tear up a brake if the clutch is releasing. So many guys try to stop the gears too soon and they have too much brake and now when you are coasting with the cltuch in the clutch brake is trying to stop the truck. No brake can last too long like that.

You already think it is on one cylinder so chack it out. pull valve cover and run the over head on that cylinder first and note where your torque wrench starts to torque. it should not start to move at leass than 60 inches on the inche meter. if it is loose then pull the adjusting screw and remove the push tube and with a hook on a coat hanger you can lift the roller and look at and if it has a scroreing on the roller or pitts then the cam will be bad. that will leve the injector lose and cause it to over fuel but not pop fuel in like it should and will cause bad smoke. this is common. A cracked injector cup will do the same thing. Low compression on that clyinder will do that but check to injector adjustment first. Those engines need the over head set more often then people think.

That is all repairable and a little brass on the shaft makes good as new.When you adjust that double disc some times you have to remove shims from under the pressure plate to stay in the range.

I think if you look you will find that they are push style. I have never seen a pull style in a B except in mine and that took some doing. You may be right about the single disc cause i cant remember.

The ENDT673 was not the same engine as the ENDT673a or b or c . The ENDT673abc was the first engine to have piston coolers and a loarger rod maxidyne liners. It was 225 and 250 HP

That is right one is not turboed and the other is and a light weight flywheel housing.Around 1966 should have been the last built.

That engine has been mixed matched and if it has a thermostat housging then it would be heating with out a stat.

That is a woodward governor and the engine that uses that governor can or may not have a oil cooler. I dont know what year oil coolers ways put on but i know that the oil cooler and thermostat and P intake manifold which was a duel intake and a full flow oil filter was put on the 187 horse engine from a 170horse. the added hp requiered a oil cooler and thermostat to live i guess. The block was cast different also and i remember right it was in the oil tubes coming up to the heads was changed. The older blocks had a cast oil tube coming up to the top of the block for the heads and i remember they would crack and oil into the coolant.

That ant no way to treat our guest is it?

As already been said cant be the water pump but pull the oil pan and pressure and you may find it but dont over look the ideal of a hole in the block about 2 inches up from the bottom betwwen the liner and block on the air compressor side due to electraices or somthing like that . Those engines due to their age was known to do that. Even a 675 or 711 will do that . It can be repaired and i think i could tell you of some one you know that i repaired one for about 5 years ago and it runs ever day and i ran with it to day. glenn

May be the low air buzzer.

One line goes from comp to suction side off water pump and the other line from comp. to side of block which is pressure from block.

Some did not have a themostat.

I dont know why it has shutters but i would open them and make them stay open. Maybe some one else has seen this and have a reason for them.

I cant say if it had shutters or not but i can tell you that the fan clutch will not kick in and make too much of a noise when it is engaged.Make a photo of them and post if you can. That engine should run when pulling close to 200 degress with no problem.

Be happy if it will stay up to 180 when not pulling. It should have a 180 thermostat in it. There is a way to check the clutch like Rob said . If you have a fan clutch and shutters then the engine is confused in what to do. One is heating the coolant and at the same time the other is cooling it. If it has shutters block them so they will not close and let the clutch control the heat. The way to test The fan clutch is to remove the air/air cooler or condensor off of the front of the rad so you can put a cardboard cover on the front so no air can get thru the cover except thru a hole about 4" in the front of the sensor on the clutch so the air that comes thru will blast over the sensor. Now get you a photocell tach and check the rpm on the clutch pulley and also thge rpm on the fan. This needs to be done at hi rpm and as the temp gets to about 205 or 210. The speed of the fan should be about 80% of the speed of the fan pulley. It will not be no faster than that no matter how hot it gets.This clutch does not have the failure rate that many thing. It has to be tested before it is proved to be bad. I worked at a dealer and we had to troubleshoot the proper way or the dealer would have to pay for the parts and labor if working on warranty parts so we hade to check close.Still yet i have seen guys that could look at somthing and tell you it was bad I dont think so is what i always said. test ever thing then you will know.

I remember them turboing that engine but i never did one because i had left mack by that time but i remember them taking out the syncrovance and making the pump a straight drive so it would not advance the timing. I dont think at that time they were setting the fuel up and was mainly trying to get the engine to stay together.

He may look at the one fuller used on the older roadranger that went on the pto pad that contacted the pto gear.

I dont know which one but the slow charge responce is not un common.

Youi said that the top was low i think but you dont check the level in the top once you have put some oil in the top at the beginingf of fill up. the top will not stay any way.

right.

I cant beat a story like that maybe it will last another million miles. macks is a good truck I dont guess it has been over hauled has it?