theakerstwo

Some guys from here was down there 3 years ago and said they lost money on the job. They said that like most gov. jobs the money was spent stupid. Too many inspectors and middle men and no hauling. He said the inspectors was the hold up. Just goverment supid nosence and i can belive what they told us.Some of the thigs they told me was for show and tell. Like on a 20 mile haul they would be held up for more than one inspectsion for as long as 2 hrs per load.

Rob is right the pad on the side of the block where the 4 bolts screw in has a out and in for the main oil galley where there is a full flow system no matter if it is the big cantister or the screw on. On this engine the oil galley passes straight by the pad on the side and the 500 by/pass mfilter is only tapped into the galley to the filter and then the filter returns to the sump. This engine does not have a full flow and can not have one installed. The oil pan should have a large removeable inspection pan on the bottom of the oil pan with a screen in it for the oil pick up tube. When the oil is changed on the engine the bottom inspection pan and screen should be removed and all of the metal cleaned from it. I grew up with these engines.I also do not remenber the stareted on the left side but that does not mean it did not come that way. I under stand that the last triplex and quads came with a pull type clutch and i think the flywheel housing and flywheel would have been different.I can not remenber seeing one set up like that but i know that year engine and that flywheel looks to be wrong together.

You can not change that engine over to the full flow screw on cansiter filters. Your engine has no full flow filter and only has a luberfiner 500 partial flow by/pass filter. Meaning only a partial flow of lub goes thru the filter and back to the sump. The later block and i am only guessing that it came out around 1960 had a pad on the side of the b lock that forced all of the oil from the pump out to a filter and back in the block thru same pad and this made it a full flow filtering system. It also had a oil cooler.

That is a o/if a kit is to be had.d trans. Go to the eaton website and check to see

Rob to test it you need to air up the unloader port were the governor line connects and then put 100 or so air pressure to the unloader valves thru the port. It should be able to hold pressure if you can cut the supply off to the ports and see if the pressure holds up. The unloaders are only small pistons with o/ring seal and if they leak by the the unloader may not be unloading completly.I have a shader valve that i can screw in to the port and air it up and check the pressure in a few seconds with tire gauge.If it is a midland compressor you can remove the valves which are under the bolt on plate on top of head. If it is a bendix go thru the intake port to remove them.Easy to do and the field maintence kit will have them in it.It takes air to unload the compressor.

I would replace the air governor first cause they are less than 30 dollars. Then start looking for air leak maybe inside of trans or maybe a check valve is letting air leak back thru to the air compressor and thru the intakee of the compressor.

I dont know what your saying about bleeding back. It ahould not let air bleed anywere but to the unloader valves. It they were leaking by then the air pressure would leak down to maybe 90 psi if the engine was not running.But after that the air is shut off to the unloader. But if this was going on then it could let the pressure to build up higher because the unloader was not unloading. Need more info. In my part of the country only certified mechanics can work on fire trucks. I worked for the dealer many years and never was allowed to work fire trucks. They said first thing i was not slow enough to make it a profitable deal to certifie me.I think i remenber saying thank God.I did work on some ambulances but that was only when they was hard up for help.I also could not work school busses.I could go over and help one of the trainess that was certified.

You need to start with a direct drive 9 speed or other wise you would end up with a RTOO. double over drive.big time over drive.

The best thing for you to do is exchange the compressor because if you can find parts it will cost you more to repair it than a new one will. Seen guys play with them for long time when its cheaper to exchange.

Also when you get the synchro replaced also check if its a air ride the air bag height cause if the rear ends have a incorrect ujoint angle it can break the pins in the scychro. In fact that is about the only thing that breaks the pins.

Do you mean rear brgs like counter shaft brgs?

Keep reading cause your on the right road.The other thing is i think the cam timing needs some rethinking.

Think about this. Unless you have a by/pass blower your turbo is limited on the boost that can go pass the blower. Turboed DD engines did go to a by.pass blower in the later years of production to use the extra boost.Some hot rods plumb the turbo boost direct into the air box covers to use the boost. But all of this takes many hours of playing with turbos not speaking of the money to get there.

Thanks Rob that made my day.To bad he didnt conment on how ugly she is.I have a dog better looking than her.That bitch could make a train take a dirt road to get by.

We at freightliner built a latrge press that would bolt on to 4 lug bolts and then use a 20 ton bottle jack and lay side ways between the axle splinde end and against the inside of the press. Some times they are at least the early ones was very hard to get off.We have had to cut them around the brh race to loosen up.Many of those hubs came off of the truck going down the road.

If you can get the vin # from that truck i can get the data from the factory in a few mins.Data like engine trans and owner.

Those road noise gets were you cant hear them the older you get.

For the older E7 engine you can use prolink . To get a prolink you can go to ebay and go into tools and search for prolink. Some times there is some gtood deals on there.I* have got lot of prolink ideams from ebay.

I will agree with that. On a stock engine thare had to be a problem with the system to gain any power with the Fass.

I am almost sure that is a 9/16 stud

I love a B model of any model but i love more a R model and prefere a R700. I have a superliner and need to be happy but a R is a real work truck. So many different things they can be used for and a R can be tricked out with a sleeper with real class.

We in years ago would save the old push tubes from a mack and cut the ends off if not aready broken off and stick down in the head then stick a welding rod down in there and weld away for a few seconds. Most cases the tube is now welded to the bolt. But they all will not come out.My look at broken head bolts is the gasket was already letting coolant in and around the head bolt and that is what rusts it or frets it causing a break.

Here is what you may do if you run it very long and its cherping.Cherping means compression leak across the top of the liner and that in a pull is like a torch buring. I have seen many liner beads burnt down from running them to long and after that a head gasket will not hold compression at that point untill the liner is changed. Those liners there do not have a bead like today engines but is only a flat surface and is hard to seal begin with.

Wonder what she tought the rotor mirrow on the right side is far.

Cool I like that ideal but i looked into that with mine years ago and ended up installing the Cac on the front out side . The fan is so short on a B61 that even when you do get the speed up on it it is so loud whith noise. I used a 6 blade fan on a swister clutch and it was even more louder.The problem with the narrow rad is the short fan has to be used.